Zoljin Kuk

Peaks: Zoljin Kuk (843m)
Area: Klimenta, Paklenica, Croatia
The rain got heavier as we had lunch, and Steve wasn't feeling well. So, fuelled by burek (not for the first time) I headed back to the national park entrance, keen to make the most of it by getting up some peaks, despite the weather. I jogged past the routes we'd done this morning, then up through Velika Paklenica - a huge tourist path heads all the way through the canyon to the hut much further up the valley where the higher Velebit peaks begin. I didn't go that far, however, partly because it was already afternoon but mainly because it was absolutely bucketing down. Instead, I followed the main path up zigzags beside the delightful rushing river, below the mist-draped main crags (I couldn't even see the famous cliffs of Anica Kuk). Eventually, the angle eases and good running leads to a junction of paths. I followed the long leftwards switchbacks which weave up to the famous showcave of Manita Pec (a very long walk for a tourist!). It was absolutely sodden, but the mist parted at times to give superb and atmospheric views north up the valley. Above, the remarkable rock pinnacle of Stup loomed through the mist. The path heads to this, then back right and eventually gains the cave at 600m: this all felt like good training as it was largely runnable. The path to Vidakov Kuk then continues via a short descent and surprisingly steep scramble to gain a much smaller, but still easy to follow, path. This weaves upwards below numerous limestone peaks and heads generally west through dwarf woodland. Eventually, through the gloom, it turns left and heads up Zoljin Kuk - the first main peak on this ridge. A tight gully, soaking wet, with mist spilling into it from above, made for an atmospheric ascent. I enjoyed it, despite the weather, and continued up rocky limestone shelves to gain the sharp top in thick clag. The path continued to Vidakov, but I was soaked and the rain was getting heavier, so retreat down the same route was the only sensible option. The rain did indeed get heavier, but I rather enjoyed the quick running back to Velika Paklenica.