Paklenica climbing

Crag: Ovcji Kuk
Routes: Prijatelju Moj (f3+/S:led p.1)
Crag: Klanci (Zighi/Zava)
Routes: Captain Corragiosi (f5b:led), Gripa (f5b:sec), Onaj Tamo! (f5a+:led), Matane ti si Car! (f5c+:sec)
Crag: Kukovi Ispod Vlake
Routes: Nosorog (u4,4-,5-,2,5-,2:led p.1,3,5)
The day we had been waiting for: finally, the weather was kind and Steve had recovered. That said, it was still raining when we woke, almost unbelievably. But by the time we got to the park entrance it was clear the rock was dry, even though the weather was cloudy and some light drizzle was falling. Given all that, we started gently but excellently, with a mild mountaineering route up the centre of the beautifully shaped miniature peak of Ovcji Kuk. It actually takes a series of slabs to the left of the very obvious central crack/chimney line, which is presumably loose or otherwise unpleasant. Instead, Prijatelju Moj is a delightful climb, UK Severe, which is thought-provoking in a few places but generally just lovely, absorbing easy climbing. I led a long 50 metre pitch to a surprisingly small stance on a slab, with the crux coming just before the belay; a steepish pull. Steve then led through, up more slabs to a final steep pull taken on the right via a crack. We had a little drizzle on the route, but it cleared completely as I led a scrambly third pitch to gain the top of Ovcji Kuk, lending the route its mountaineering character. Then came a scrambling descent to the col on the far side, then a path back to the base. A good start. We then wanted to bag Nosorog, but it was rammed with three teams of Germans. No time to waste, so we headed straight up to Klanci where I wanted Steve to experience the joys of good limestone. We crossed the river and headed for the Zighi section, opposite the busiest parts of Klanci and much less polished. Captain Corragiosi gave a wonderful pitch up beautiful sculpted limestone; almost the perfect single-pitch route, 30 metres of varied limestone climbing. First, a steep and technical slab, then a small overhang taken on jugs. Then, a glorious upper wall of wonderfully featured rock, pockets, and giant juggy flakes: limestone climbing at its best, the definition of what I love most and have been lucky to experience in many venues from Provence to the Costa Brava to the Italian Alps (sadly, rare in the UK). The modest grade was irrelevant, and Steve then led a similar but shorter line further left, Gripa, which had some seepage but took walls of concrete-like rock with friezes of small pockets. Brilliant stuff, the sun was out and it was nice to be on this quiet side of the gorge. We switched to the busy side for a few routes on the Zava section we'd already visited. In the dry, it was a different proposition: I enjoyed Onaj Tamo at f5, which was steep then technical - but also very polished. Slightly under-graded, but eclipsed by the 5c+ to its right, which seemed more like 6b+. We then retired for lunch, more burek, and to check-out of our apartment. We returned to even better weather, finally cloudless skies, perfect clarity of light. And Nosorog was free of crowds, which was better still. We geared up and headed to it, just a few minutes from the car. It is a Paklenica classic, taking a wonderfully obvious line up a snaking ridge that marks the entrance to the gorge when you drive in. Perhaps HS 4c in British terms, but bolted throughout and not sustained. I led a long easy first pitch which sidles up grooves and walls on the right-hand side of the ridge line, then Steve continued up the ridge: simple but enjoyable, leading up to a belay below an obvious steepening at a beautiful wall of limestone. This gave a fine pitch, straight up the front of the wall on good holds at VS, then sidling leftwards on a traverse across a series of spikes and pinnacles. Steve's 4th was easy but intriguing, up the ridge, then a downclimb to avoid the top of the obvious giant gendarme which is its key feature. A tiny col provides a nice belay spot, while the final pitch heads straight up the front of the ridge, which becomes much steeper. A wall of lovely limestone with some delicate climbing on small holds, leads to an easier section, before a final wall builds up to a small overhang right at the top. All easy but beautiful climbing. The descent is intricate, a short scramble to a double traverse following small cairns and long ledges - fantastic views of the main gorge in bright sunshine - to eventually gain tiresome scree back to the car. That was that, sadly, so we drove down to Zadar for a walk round the walls and coastal promenade in perfect spring weather, before flying home later that evening.