Pasji Klanac

Peaks: Pasji Klanac (794m)
Area: Velebit West, Croatia
Although a little tired, I felt short-changed after such a weather-affected day, so headed up the tiny road that runs through Starigrad up into the Velebit peaks that lie to the west of Velika Paklenica and the main park entrance. It was late afternoon, and completely deserted, as I headed up (in a 4WD Duster!) past the hamlet of Milovci-Bristovac: the weather was cold, overcast but dry at last. After the rain, the limestone landscape, strips of cloud and low orange light over the Adriatic made for a very distinctive ambience. I drove to a likely spot near Vaganac and picked a peak at random - which turned out to be Pasji Klanac, a double-headed limestone spire that was very steep when approached from below. The main challenge initially was finding a way through the maquis, although a few tiny cairns helped at first. Above, as I approached the summit dome, these petered out and it felt like a first ascent. A frontal assault was impossible solo, climbing territory, but it looked like a ridge lay above. I tried one chimney to get up - too steep - then traversed left and gained the ridge at the col between the two peaks. Then, a delightful catwalk - exactly what I had hoped for - led via some mild scrambling to the small summit. All very satisfying, with a pioneering feel. The views were wonderful. Paklenica itself was still draped in cloud, but nearby summits to the west were clear. In front, a spectacular view over the domes and spires of Veliki Vraganac with Starigrad and the Adriatic below. The low light, after a day of rain, gave tremendous clarity and I could see right out over the islands and peninsulas to the south (Pag, Losinj, Cres and many others). It was utterly silent, not a sound, and nobody else was visible in the entire landscape - a memorable bonus outing, making the most of some very bad weather luck. Excellent grilled mackerel with dalmatian chard and potatoes to refuel in Starigrad later.