Peaks: Moel Siabod, Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen, Carnedd Cribau, Cerrig Cochion, Moel Meirch, Ysgafell Wen, Moel Llyn Cwn, Moel Druman, Allt Fawr, Foel Ddu, Moel yr Hydd, Moelwyn Bach, Craigysgafn, Moelwyn Mawr, Cnicht
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
The third time I have done this most obscure and arduous of Snowdonian traverses this summer: I have no great desire to do it again for a while! On this occasion, I was supporting a Paddy Buckley attempt for the first time. As Paddy was one of my targets for this year of multiple mountains, I had mixed emotions as this summer has felt like 'now or never' for me to have a proper go at it before I switch back to normal running next year. However, you have to properly commit, and it definitely didn't feel appropriate to join another attempt when they've done all the organisation and got a team together. Instead, I wanted to properly support Hayley and Rich's attempt, so set off with them from Capel Curig at 10.30am for what proved a really enjoyable outing. An hour before, the rain was coming down in torrential sheets, but it cleared completely on the way up Siabod, and we reached the summit in 50 minutes from Capel. A light shower as we ran down the superb gentle ridge to the next two peaks, before the boggy and awkward section that ultimately leads to Cerrig Cochion. The terrain remains awkward over the rocks of Moel Meirch and Ysgafell Wen - there is never much climbing, but locating the true summits is tricky, and it is always arduous underfoot. We had a team of five in total, with two other support runners, and we made a good team - perfectly paced, around 20 minutes up on a 24-hour schedule, and all good company. After Ysgafell Wen, the terrain eases to excellent running out to Allt Fawr and then down to the water sources above Blaenau. Superb views, they couldn't have had better weather at this point - cool but clear. In the panic of the morning, I had neglected to pack any food for myself, and this became a bit of a problem on a 6.5 hour leg - it wasn't as if I could ask anybody for a bite! Moelwyn Bach brought back nice memories of our 'coast to coast' with Cardigan Bay glistening and Porthmadog bathed in sunshine. And then it was along the familiar ridge over rocky Craigysgafn to Moelwyn Mawr: more wonderful views as the clouds melted away from the Carneddau far to the north. It is a long and complex haul from Moelwyn Mawr to Cnicht, weaving through quarry workings, lumpy terrain and hidden lakes. We met Steve and Hazel here, and their bananas and cake was most welcome - because the direct assault up Cnicht follows. I reccied this in April (nobody in their right mind would ever do Cnicht from this side) and stuck to the contouring route I discovered, which works well. A long descent, rocky at first down the scrambly Croesor race route (my left knee a tad painful after the Beacons race) and then a long bouldery track which leads to a minor road and, eventually, Nantmor. I cooked soup, then drove Hayley's car back to Capel as they continued over the Hebog leg. So, mixed emotions: perhaps the Fellsman and Porthmadog-Conwy 'coast to coast' may have to stand as the high water marks of the last two 'distance years'!
A self-indulgent journal of pointless adventures in mountain sports and all forms of distance running and racing.
Saturday, August 31, 2019
Thursday, August 29, 2019
Marian Bach climbing
Crag: Marian Bach, Llysfaen
Routes: High Speed Virgins (f5b:sec), Line Right of HSV (f5:sec), Tanfastic Variation (f5b:led), Tanfastic (f5:sec), Malibu (f5c:sec), Encierro de la Villavesa (f5b:led), Rocky Robin (f5:sec), Krakatwo-er (f5c:sec), Seren (f4:led)
On my last, and only, visit to this hidden crag, the routes had only just been put up. They now have names and grades and it is a nice, peaceful venue - ideal this morning, as I didn't have much time and it was very windy at nearby Castle Inn. Steve led a short new route on the left, then I led the un-named route up the left wall of the Tanfastic groove. This was steeper than it looked and enjoyable. Malibu takes a steep wall further right on big horizontal holds and is really nice, perhaps the best route here. I led the obvious right-left traverse using the same starting moves, and this also gave pleasant and worthwhile climbing, as did the obvious line of Rocky Robin. Some of these I'd done on my previous visit, some were new to me. The awkward wide crack of Krakatwoer was definitely familiar, but the easy route to its right was new. Back to Conwy for a picnic lunch.
Routes: High Speed Virgins (f5b:sec), Line Right of HSV (f5:sec), Tanfastic Variation (f5b:led), Tanfastic (f5:sec), Malibu (f5c:sec), Encierro de la Villavesa (f5b:led), Rocky Robin (f5:sec), Krakatwo-er (f5c:sec), Seren (f4:led)
On my last, and only, visit to this hidden crag, the routes had only just been put up. They now have names and grades and it is a nice, peaceful venue - ideal this morning, as I didn't have much time and it was very windy at nearby Castle Inn. Steve led a short new route on the left, then I led the un-named route up the left wall of the Tanfastic groove. This was steeper than it looked and enjoyable. Malibu takes a steep wall further right on big horizontal holds and is really nice, perhaps the best route here. I led the obvious right-left traverse using the same starting moves, and this also gave pleasant and worthwhile climbing, as did the obvious line of Rocky Robin. Some of these I'd done on my previous visit, some were new to me. The awkward wide crack of Krakatwoer was definitely familiar, but the easy route to its right was new. Back to Conwy for a picnic lunch.
Saturday, August 24, 2019
Brecon Beacons fell race
Race: Brecon Beacons fell race (31k/4500ft/BL)
Peaks: Carn Pica, Waun Rydd, Cribyn, Pen y Fan, Corn Du, Twyn Mwyalchod, Pant y Creigiau, Tor y Foel
Time/Position: 3.53.28 (21st from 69)
The missing piece of the jigsaw, in the sense that this was the only long Welsh fell race I hadn't done. It takes a grand, sweeping loop of the long valley that curves west above Talybont. We camped in a nice wooded glade by the youth hostel, just below the Taff Trail that I enjoyed so much on February's Brecon-Cardiff ultra. The day dawned hot, and became very hot - 27c in fact, and it was obvious that the crux would be coping with it on a course with no shelter and no water. The race starts below the reservoir, just above the village, and heads up the road and obvious track to the start of the broad ridge over Twyn Du that eventually leads up to Carn Pica, the most easterly of the Beacons. This is a sharp little climb at the end, and a great viewpoint in all directions. My relaxed approach meant I could take pictures and enjoy it. A lot of height had already been gained, and a very helpful cooling breeze was gratefully received after a sweaty and long climb. The ridgeline then curves invitingly towards the distant main Beacons summits. For such a hot day, the clarity of light was wonderful - and the running superb along the main path above the northern escarpment (Craig Cwm Cynwyn). The race contours Fan y Big to the col below Cribyn - and then a short, steep climb gains the nice summit ridge of Cribyn before another steep descent with superb views of Pen y Fan, now directly in front. It was such a stunning day, and these peaks are so accessible from the Storey Arms, that there were hundreds of people on the tops - it was actually quite hard to find the marshall on Pen y Fan, and Corn Du (just a matter of minutes away). Only the 4th or 5th time I've been up the main Beacons summits. From the top of Corn Du comes a very long level ridge south-east to Rhiw yr Ysgyfarnog above the Gwaun Taf valley (which joins Taf Fawr at Merthyr). This ridge, like the earlier one, is runnable although awkward and bouldery in places - the sandstone slabs reminiscent of certain Peak races like the Roaches. The next checkpoint was at the trig on Twyn Mwyalchod, then came a steep descent where I took a bad, indirect line, immediately losing five places (I was 25th on Corn Du). Then it was down to a waterpoint below Upper Neuadd, the only water on the route, before the airless trudge through Taf Fechan forest. The breeze gone, it was very hot work, and got worse as we gained the tarmac (the same road to Merthyr that I ran down from the highpoint on Brecon-Cardiff). The climb up Pant y Creigiau was probably the crux of the route, and I took it too far left, losing ground again. After the summit, I could see Tor y Foel, the final peak, and felt the end was in sight. In reality, the topography on this side of the valley means it takes forever to reach. It heads over Darren Fawr via multiple bumps and hidden valleys. I made up some ground on two local runners, which helped for the route-finding here, which seems bewildering as the best lines weave left and right, seemingly avoiding the direct route to Tor y Foel. Great views down to the lakes and across to the main Beacons summits, all looking very distant, and in front to the east was the Usk valley and Black Mountains. It was all very hot and thirsty work, and I passed three dehydrated semi-casualties before gaining the final climb up Tor y Foel. This is a nice little summit, directly above the YHA and dam to which the descent heads directly, with local knowledge a help again. The race finishes on the dam wall - a wonderful, aesthetically pleasing circuit, but the hottest 'long' I have done for several years (I think the Welsh 1000s in 2011 was the last time I did a 'long' that was this hot).
Peaks: Carn Pica, Waun Rydd, Cribyn, Pen y Fan, Corn Du, Twyn Mwyalchod, Pant y Creigiau, Tor y Foel
Time/Position: 3.53.28 (21st from 69)
The missing piece of the jigsaw, in the sense that this was the only long Welsh fell race I hadn't done. It takes a grand, sweeping loop of the long valley that curves west above Talybont. We camped in a nice wooded glade by the youth hostel, just below the Taff Trail that I enjoyed so much on February's Brecon-Cardiff ultra. The day dawned hot, and became very hot - 27c in fact, and it was obvious that the crux would be coping with it on a course with no shelter and no water. The race starts below the reservoir, just above the village, and heads up the road and obvious track to the start of the broad ridge over Twyn Du that eventually leads up to Carn Pica, the most easterly of the Beacons. This is a sharp little climb at the end, and a great viewpoint in all directions. My relaxed approach meant I could take pictures and enjoy it. A lot of height had already been gained, and a very helpful cooling breeze was gratefully received after a sweaty and long climb. The ridgeline then curves invitingly towards the distant main Beacons summits. For such a hot day, the clarity of light was wonderful - and the running superb along the main path above the northern escarpment (Craig Cwm Cynwyn). The race contours Fan y Big to the col below Cribyn - and then a short, steep climb gains the nice summit ridge of Cribyn before another steep descent with superb views of Pen y Fan, now directly in front. It was such a stunning day, and these peaks are so accessible from the Storey Arms, that there were hundreds of people on the tops - it was actually quite hard to find the marshall on Pen y Fan, and Corn Du (just a matter of minutes away). Only the 4th or 5th time I've been up the main Beacons summits. From the top of Corn Du comes a very long level ridge south-east to Rhiw yr Ysgyfarnog above the Gwaun Taf valley (which joins Taf Fawr at Merthyr). This ridge, like the earlier one, is runnable although awkward and bouldery in places - the sandstone slabs reminiscent of certain Peak races like the Roaches. The next checkpoint was at the trig on Twyn Mwyalchod, then came a steep descent where I took a bad, indirect line, immediately losing five places (I was 25th on Corn Du). Then it was down to a waterpoint below Upper Neuadd, the only water on the route, before the airless trudge through Taf Fechan forest. The breeze gone, it was very hot work, and got worse as we gained the tarmac (the same road to Merthyr that I ran down from the highpoint on Brecon-Cardiff). The climb up Pant y Creigiau was probably the crux of the route, and I took it too far left, losing ground again. After the summit, I could see Tor y Foel, the final peak, and felt the end was in sight. In reality, the topography on this side of the valley means it takes forever to reach. It heads over Darren Fawr via multiple bumps and hidden valleys. I made up some ground on two local runners, which helped for the route-finding here, which seems bewildering as the best lines weave left and right, seemingly avoiding the direct route to Tor y Foel. Great views down to the lakes and across to the main Beacons summits, all looking very distant, and in front to the east was the Usk valley and Black Mountains. It was all very hot and thirsty work, and I passed three dehydrated semi-casualties before gaining the final climb up Tor y Foel. This is a nice little summit, directly above the YHA and dam to which the descent heads directly, with local knowledge a help again. The race finishes on the dam wall - a wonderful, aesthetically pleasing circuit, but the hottest 'long' I have done for several years (I think the Welsh 1000s in 2011 was the last time I did a 'long' that was this hot).
Tuesday, August 20, 2019
Tremadog climbing
Crag: Upper Tier/Two Face Buttress, Tremadog
Routes: Falling Block Crack (S:led), Gwynedd/Mistook (VS 4b:sec), KMA (HS 4a:led), Madog (VS 4c:sec), Olympic Slab (VS 4c:sec), Stromboli (HVS 5a:sec)
It hasn't been the most successful of years, rock-climbing wise, as the focus has been on multiple mountains instead. So this was a nice opportunity to get onto a rather obscure part of Tremadog that I hadn't visited before, Two-Face buttress, which is hidden below the Upper Tier, its lower pitches buried in vegetation. We kicked off on the more familiar terrain of the Upper Tier, however, where I led the easy Falling Block Crack for the second time. This goes to a small bulge around the block, which gives a few bridging moves to an easy finish: a nice, simple route to begin with. Vic led Mistook, which takes the curving finger crack to the right. I did the eliminate start (Gwynedd) at the same grade, but had to take the Mistook crack towards the top to retrieve the gear. KMA was a gap for me: it takes the obvious line on the left of the crag. The start is awkward: smooth rock with a puzzling move, few obvious holds, squirming up the broad crack to eventually gain projecting holds and a big ledge. After a move left round a tree, the route continues via some nice bridging to an upper rib. Quite enjoyable, and the sun came out giving wonderful views over the Rhinogs, estuary and Criccieth as I brought up Vic and Ceri. Madog takes the smooth and awkward jamming crack to the right, with a delicate and tricky finish (if you take it direct). After lunch, we hopped over the fence and abbed down to the tree below Olympic Slab. This takes an immaculate steep slab of perfect Tremadog rock, protected from crowds and polish by its inaccessibility. It is short, but harder than I expected: quite technical for a few moves. It goes up spikes to a very thin crack, which is delicate up to some small holds, then another crack, a tad easier, to the finishing groove. Very well positioned, with an exposed feel, despite its brevity. We then moved the rope and abseiled down the other side of the buttress where Vic led Stromboli. This is the archetypal 'route of character'. Again, only short, but with a big feel, packing a lot of climbing and variety in to 25m or so. It goes easily to a great undercut traverse, which requires some thought on a single 9mm, with very little for the feet and a precise sequence to gain a good hold at the end of the overhang. This gains an easy slab up to the impending double-overhang of the headwall. This is the second hard move, and probably the crux, up an overhanging groove, nudging upwards to gain an enormous hold with nothing for the feet until you find a perfect little ledge on the right wall. Hauling up gains the final slab and another hard move up right, to pull over to the belay. It started spitting with rain the second we all finished, then rained properly as we descended: excellent timing.
Routes: Falling Block Crack (S:led), Gwynedd/Mistook (VS 4b:sec), KMA (HS 4a:led), Madog (VS 4c:sec), Olympic Slab (VS 4c:sec), Stromboli (HVS 5a:sec)
It hasn't been the most successful of years, rock-climbing wise, as the focus has been on multiple mountains instead. So this was a nice opportunity to get onto a rather obscure part of Tremadog that I hadn't visited before, Two-Face buttress, which is hidden below the Upper Tier, its lower pitches buried in vegetation. We kicked off on the more familiar terrain of the Upper Tier, however, where I led the easy Falling Block Crack for the second time. This goes to a small bulge around the block, which gives a few bridging moves to an easy finish: a nice, simple route to begin with. Vic led Mistook, which takes the curving finger crack to the right. I did the eliminate start (Gwynedd) at the same grade, but had to take the Mistook crack towards the top to retrieve the gear. KMA was a gap for me: it takes the obvious line on the left of the crag. The start is awkward: smooth rock with a puzzling move, few obvious holds, squirming up the broad crack to eventually gain projecting holds and a big ledge. After a move left round a tree, the route continues via some nice bridging to an upper rib. Quite enjoyable, and the sun came out giving wonderful views over the Rhinogs, estuary and Criccieth as I brought up Vic and Ceri. Madog takes the smooth and awkward jamming crack to the right, with a delicate and tricky finish (if you take it direct). After lunch, we hopped over the fence and abbed down to the tree below Olympic Slab. This takes an immaculate steep slab of perfect Tremadog rock, protected from crowds and polish by its inaccessibility. It is short, but harder than I expected: quite technical for a few moves. It goes up spikes to a very thin crack, which is delicate up to some small holds, then another crack, a tad easier, to the finishing groove. Very well positioned, with an exposed feel, despite its brevity. We then moved the rope and abseiled down the other side of the buttress where Vic led Stromboli. This is the archetypal 'route of character'. Again, only short, but with a big feel, packing a lot of climbing and variety in to 25m or so. It goes easily to a great undercut traverse, which requires some thought on a single 9mm, with very little for the feet and a precise sequence to gain a good hold at the end of the overhang. This gains an easy slab up to the impending double-overhang of the headwall. This is the second hard move, and probably the crux, up an overhanging groove, nudging upwards to gain an enormous hold with nothing for the feet until you find a perfect little ledge on the right wall. Hauling up gains the final slab and another hard move up right, to pull over to the belay. It started spitting with rain the second we all finished, then rained properly as we descended: excellent timing.
Sunday, August 18, 2019
Two Hillforts fell race
Race: Two Hillforts fell race (8.5m/2600ft)
Time/Position: 1.18.44 (9th from 73)
A two month lay-off from racing, my longest in many years, so this (along with yesterday's Parkrun) was always going to be a shock to the system. As such, it went as well as could be expected, perhaps better as I felt fairly comfortable throughout, albeit very slow. The excellent new route seemed similar to the defunct Tavern Trial or Lletty, although it started from a different farm, contouring along to the same steep path up to the Moel Arthur car park. Then comes the brutally steep climb up the front of Moel Arthur, then a descent through the heather towards Pen y Cloddiau. This is always my favourite hill for running, and we took the fire road which climbs gently on the Vale side before running along the top of the hillfort to the summit. The weather was beautiful but windy, a nice late summer day. There were quite big gaps between runners - I passed one and was then passed by a fast finisher as we climbed back up to Llys y Coed for the long run in, which starts by the Cilcain col and ends with the superb grassy descent back to Llangynhafal.
Time/Position: 1.18.44 (9th from 73)
A two month lay-off from racing, my longest in many years, so this (along with yesterday's Parkrun) was always going to be a shock to the system. As such, it went as well as could be expected, perhaps better as I felt fairly comfortable throughout, albeit very slow. The excellent new route seemed similar to the defunct Tavern Trial or Lletty, although it started from a different farm, contouring along to the same steep path up to the Moel Arthur car park. Then comes the brutally steep climb up the front of Moel Arthur, then a descent through the heather towards Pen y Cloddiau. This is always my favourite hill for running, and we took the fire road which climbs gently on the Vale side before running along the top of the hillfort to the summit. The weather was beautiful but windy, a nice late summer day. There were quite big gaps between runners - I passed one and was then passed by a fast finisher as we climbed back up to Llys y Coed for the long run in, which starts by the Cilcain col and ends with the superb grassy descent back to Llangynhafal.
Saturday, August 17, 2019
Wepre Parkrun
"Race": Wepre Parkrun
Time/Position: 20.25 (3rd from 134)
My first Parkrun for almost two years, and inevitably my slowest ever. Despite that, this felt like a decent speed session amidst all the slow plodding and there are signs that it might not take too long to regain some speed when I finally get back to proper training. E is now volunteering, so there may be other opportunities to run the two-lap, hilly course through Wepre woods. It is always very pleasant, so it is odd that I've only done it three or four times. First on the age-graded results at least!
Time/Position: 20.25 (3rd from 134)
My first Parkrun for almost two years, and inevitably my slowest ever. Despite that, this felt like a decent speed session amidst all the slow plodding and there are signs that it might not take too long to regain some speed when I finally get back to proper training. E is now volunteering, so there may be other opportunities to run the two-lap, hilly course through Wepre woods. It is always very pleasant, so it is odd that I've only done it three or four times. First on the age-graded results at least!
Sunday, August 11, 2019
Berwyn run
Peaks: Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn, Moel Sych, Cadair Berwyn
Area: Berwyn, North Wales
An unsettled period of weather, with the clag fairly low over the ridge as we set off from a deserted Llandrillo, still early on Sunday morning. We set a decent pace throughout, up the very steep tarmac to the slightly gentler slopes via Moel Ty Uchaf to Moel Pearce. Then it was into the clag, sticking to the fence for the direct - but boggy - route up to the summit of Cadair Bronwen. It was fairly cold and windy here, but not as wet as forecast, so it was on with the coats. We were all going quite well (Stuart had joined Jez and I for the morning) and this route is runnable throughout. Light drizzle for the steep climb up Cadair Berwyn (last time I was here I bivvied just below the summit on a perfect May day in a drought), then along to the actual Berwyn highpoint before pelting flat-out along to Moel Sych. Instead of dropping down to Llyn Lluncaws, we ran back over Cadair Berwyn, then descended the very boggy permissive path back to Llandrillo, which is overgrown now in several places: 2.10 for the round.
Area: Berwyn, North Wales
An unsettled period of weather, with the clag fairly low over the ridge as we set off from a deserted Llandrillo, still early on Sunday morning. We set a decent pace throughout, up the very steep tarmac to the slightly gentler slopes via Moel Ty Uchaf to Moel Pearce. Then it was into the clag, sticking to the fence for the direct - but boggy - route up to the summit of Cadair Bronwen. It was fairly cold and windy here, but not as wet as forecast, so it was on with the coats. We were all going quite well (Stuart had joined Jez and I for the morning) and this route is runnable throughout. Light drizzle for the steep climb up Cadair Berwyn (last time I was here I bivvied just below the summit on a perfect May day in a drought), then along to the actual Berwyn highpoint before pelting flat-out along to Moel Sych. Instead of dropping down to Llyn Lluncaws, we ran back over Cadair Berwyn, then descended the very boggy permissive path back to Llandrillo, which is overgrown now in several places: 2.10 for the round.
Thursday, August 08, 2019
Idwal climbing
Crag: Glyder Fawr, Idwal
Routes: The Other Direct Start (S 4b:sec), Tennis Shoe (HS 4a,4a,4b:led p.2), Original Route (VS 5a,4c:led p.2), Continuation Crack (HVS 5a:sec)
Over 30 years, I have done most of the possible 'enchainement' combinations up the cliffs of Glyder Fawr. Whichever combination of routes is selected, you are always guaranteed one of the best mountain days in Snowdonia as you make your way up the different crags leading towards the upper cliff. Today was a fairly standard selection, although Vic led a long alternative start to Tennis Shoe ('the other direct start') which I couldn't remember doing before. It is well to the right, much more direct and better than the polished normal start, I think, and has some delicate moves initially on very small holds, before cracks are gained. These look vegetated from below, but are OK, and give good climbing. This leads to a blanker section before a steeper final crack up to the belay: almost a 50m pitch. I then led up the enjoyable rib which is nicely positioned and good climbing, up to an easing and then a small belay ledge which we shared awkwardly with another pair. The angle eases here, so Vic scrambled up to the final tower before leading it. I remember leading this back in 1993 or so: it is surprisingly tricky with a precise sequence required (you have to find a sharp little hold after traversing left). Then comes the steep slab to the poised boulder right at the top. Next up was Original Route, all a bit wet and muddy at the start. Vic led - the first few moves are tricky, then comes the simple Crescent Slab, curving right to the off-width chimney crack which I well remembered from doing the route before. It is hard, grovelling stuff with no easy solutions, just arm jams and other unpleasantness. I led the final pitch, which is graded 4c but is easier: up a nice crack with good gear to a ledge, then moves right to a little spike and easy finish. We finished with a little gem, which neither of us had done before. Continuation Crack is directly above, just left of the more travelled trade route, Groove Above. It gives a superb pitch, with technical moves initially, which require a few delicate steps on the left wall. This leads to a wonderful pocketed section before the route steepens towards the top: this looked like the crux from below but was fairly straightforward, with the crack positive and more pockets. The rock is superb, and not too polished: a great pitch, somewhat remarkable that neither of us had done it before. We then descended down the hugely polished normal slabs descent, which is thought-provoking these days. We were back at out sacks less than three hours after setting off, nicely efficient.
Routes: The Other Direct Start (S 4b:sec), Tennis Shoe (HS 4a,4a,4b:led p.2), Original Route (VS 5a,4c:led p.2), Continuation Crack (HVS 5a:sec)
Over 30 years, I have done most of the possible 'enchainement' combinations up the cliffs of Glyder Fawr. Whichever combination of routes is selected, you are always guaranteed one of the best mountain days in Snowdonia as you make your way up the different crags leading towards the upper cliff. Today was a fairly standard selection, although Vic led a long alternative start to Tennis Shoe ('the other direct start') which I couldn't remember doing before. It is well to the right, much more direct and better than the polished normal start, I think, and has some delicate moves initially on very small holds, before cracks are gained. These look vegetated from below, but are OK, and give good climbing. This leads to a blanker section before a steeper final crack up to the belay: almost a 50m pitch. I then led up the enjoyable rib which is nicely positioned and good climbing, up to an easing and then a small belay ledge which we shared awkwardly with another pair. The angle eases here, so Vic scrambled up to the final tower before leading it. I remember leading this back in 1993 or so: it is surprisingly tricky with a precise sequence required (you have to find a sharp little hold after traversing left). Then comes the steep slab to the poised boulder right at the top. Next up was Original Route, all a bit wet and muddy at the start. Vic led - the first few moves are tricky, then comes the simple Crescent Slab, curving right to the off-width chimney crack which I well remembered from doing the route before. It is hard, grovelling stuff with no easy solutions, just arm jams and other unpleasantness. I led the final pitch, which is graded 4c but is easier: up a nice crack with good gear to a ledge, then moves right to a little spike and easy finish. We finished with a little gem, which neither of us had done before. Continuation Crack is directly above, just left of the more travelled trade route, Groove Above. It gives a superb pitch, with technical moves initially, which require a few delicate steps on the left wall. This leads to a wonderful pocketed section before the route steepens towards the top: this looked like the crux from below but was fairly straightforward, with the crack positive and more pockets. The rock is superb, and not too polished: a great pitch, somewhat remarkable that neither of us had done it before. We then descended down the hugely polished normal slabs descent, which is thought-provoking these days. We were back at out sacks less than three hours after setting off, nicely efficient.
Monday, August 05, 2019
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor, Eglwyseg
Routes: The Full Nine Llaths (f5a:sec), The Last Llath (f5a:led), Ogre in the Ogof (f5a:sec), Maevanwy (f6a:led), Screch yr Hebog (f5c:sec), Raptor Rap (f5a:sec), Merlin Magic (f5b:led)
I'd successfully avoided Trevor this year, but a short trip seemed in order today after a break from climbing of several weeks since Italy - partly because my gear was nicked in Bergamo. I dug out my old saggy harness, old shoes and second helmet and we had a decent few hours at the extreme left of the crag, where I repeated some routes that I did shortly after they were originally bolted a decade ago. They're not too bad, although as ever it's a bit of a comedown after continental limestone. Some of these routes were unticked in my guidebook, including The Last Llath and the pleasant Ogre in the Ogof which takes a nice slab. Maevanwy, supposedly 6a, was a first too - overgraded, it takes an easy slab to a blanker wall, with one or two delicate and technical moves to gain an excellent pocket. Another example of Brits misunderstanding the French grading system. Steve led the f5c up the shallow groove, the best line here with a thought-provoking move using a side-pull at mid-height. The square groove to the right is quite good, and the 5b takes the disjointed rib.
Routes: The Full Nine Llaths (f5a:sec), The Last Llath (f5a:led), Ogre in the Ogof (f5a:sec), Maevanwy (f6a:led), Screch yr Hebog (f5c:sec), Raptor Rap (f5a:sec), Merlin Magic (f5b:led)
I'd successfully avoided Trevor this year, but a short trip seemed in order today after a break from climbing of several weeks since Italy - partly because my gear was nicked in Bergamo. I dug out my old saggy harness, old shoes and second helmet and we had a decent few hours at the extreme left of the crag, where I repeated some routes that I did shortly after they were originally bolted a decade ago. They're not too bad, although as ever it's a bit of a comedown after continental limestone. Some of these routes were unticked in my guidebook, including The Last Llath and the pleasant Ogre in the Ogof which takes a nice slab. Maevanwy, supposedly 6a, was a first too - overgraded, it takes an easy slab to a blanker wall, with one or two delicate and technical moves to gain an excellent pocket. Another example of Brits misunderstanding the French grading system. Steve led the f5c up the shallow groove, the best line here with a thought-provoking move using a side-pull at mid-height. The square groove to the right is quite good, and the 5b takes the disjointed rib.
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