Thursday, August 29, 2019

Marian Bach climbing

Crag: Marian Bach, Llysfaen
Routes: High Speed Virgins (f5b:sec), Line Right of HSV (f5:sec), Tanfastic Variation (f5b:led), Tanfastic (f5:sec), Malibu (f5c:sec), Encierro de la Villavesa (f5b:led), Rocky Robin (f5:sec), Krakatwo-er (f5c:sec), Seren (f4:led)
On my last, and only, visit to this hidden crag, the routes had only just been put up. They now have names and grades and it is a nice, peaceful venue - ideal this morning, as I didn't have much time and it was very windy at nearby Castle Inn. Steve led a short new route on the left, then I led the un-named route up the left wall of the Tanfastic groove. This was steeper than it looked and enjoyable. Malibu takes a steep wall further right on big horizontal holds and is really nice, perhaps the best route here. I led the obvious right-left traverse using the same starting moves, and this also gave pleasant and worthwhile climbing, as did the obvious line of Rocky Robin. Some of these I'd done on my previous visit, some were new to me. The awkward wide crack of Krakatwoer was definitely familiar, but the easy route to its right was new. Back to Conwy for a picnic lunch.

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