Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor, Eglwyseg
Routes: The Full Nine Llaths (f5a:sec), The Last Llath (f5a:led), Ogre in the Ogof (f5a:sec), Maevanwy (f6a:led), Screch yr Hebog (f5c:sec), Raptor Rap (f5a:sec), Merlin Magic (f5b:led)
I'd successfully avoided Trevor this year, but a short trip seemed in order today after a break from climbing of several weeks since Italy - partly because my gear was nicked in Bergamo. I dug out my old saggy harness, old shoes and second helmet and we had a decent few hours at the extreme left of the crag, where I repeated some routes that I did shortly after they were originally bolted a decade ago. They're not too bad, although as ever it's a bit of a comedown after continental limestone. Some of these routes were unticked in my guidebook, including The Last Llath and the pleasant Ogre in the Ogof which takes a nice slab. Maevanwy, supposedly 6a, was a first too - overgraded, it takes an easy slab to a blanker wall, with one or two delicate and technical moves to gain an excellent pocket. Another example of Brits misunderstanding the French grading system. Steve led the f5c up the shallow groove, the best line here with a thought-provoking move using a side-pull at mid-height. The square groove to the right is quite good, and the 5b takes the disjointed rib.