Idwal climbing

Crag: Glyder Fawr, Idwal
Routes: The Other Direct Start (S 4b:sec), Tennis Shoe (HS 4a,4a,4b:led p.2), Original Route (VS 5a,4c:led p.2), Continuation Crack (HVS 5a:sec)
Over 30 years, I have done most of the possible 'enchainement' combinations up the cliffs of Glyder Fawr. Whichever combination of routes is selected, you are always guaranteed one of the best mountain days in Snowdonia as you make your way up the different crags leading towards the upper cliff. Today was a fairly standard selection, although Vic led a long alternative start to Tennis Shoe ('the other direct start') which I couldn't remember doing before. It is well to the right, much more direct and better than the polished normal start, I think, and has some delicate moves initially on very small holds, before cracks are gained. These look vegetated from below, but are OK, and give good climbing. This leads to a blanker section before a steeper final crack up to the belay: almost a 50m pitch. I then led up the enjoyable rib which is nicely positioned and good climbing, up to an easing and then a small belay ledge which we shared awkwardly with another pair. The angle eases here, so Vic scrambled up to the final tower before leading it. I remember leading this back in 1993 or so: it is surprisingly tricky with a precise sequence required (you have to find a sharp little hold after traversing left). Then comes the steep slab to the poised boulder right at the top. Next up was Original Route, all a bit wet and muddy at the start. Vic led - the first few moves are tricky, then comes the simple Crescent Slab, curving right to the off-width chimney crack which I well remembered from doing the route before. It is hard, grovelling stuff with no easy solutions, just arm jams and other unpleasantness. I led the final pitch, which is graded 4c but is easier: up a nice crack with good gear to a ledge, then moves right to a little spike and easy finish. We finished with a little gem, which neither of us had done before. Continuation Crack is directly above, just left of the more travelled trade route, Groove Above. It gives a superb pitch, with technical moves initially, which require a few delicate steps on the left wall. This leads to a wonderful pocketed section before the route steepens towards the top: this looked like the crux from below but was fairly straightforward, with the crack positive and more pockets. The rock is superb, and not too polished: a great pitch, somewhat remarkable that neither of us had done it before. We then descended down the hugely polished normal slabs descent, which is thought-provoking these days. We were back at out sacks less than three hours after setting off, nicely efficient.