Area: Glen Etive, Scotland
Three wonderfully contrasting mountains. Although it had been fun filling in the obvious southern Highland gaps, I also felt the need for a proper Highland dose, as the year is not complete without it. If I'd had more time, I would have headed up to the north-west again, but felt that - given the constraints - the bottom end of Glen Etive would offer what I was seeking. Ben Starav was an obvious gap that I'd missed in the past, a superb mountain that looks every inch of its height as it rises from what is, after all, a sea loch. I found it difficult to park after a longish drive from Strathyre, despite the fact that the bottom of Glen Etive is actually a pretty remote place. I have been down the glen a long time ago, the late 80s probably, but not all the way down. It is now a rather busy place, but all that is left behind after the river is crossed at Coiletir and the NE ridge of Starav begun (after a very boggy low-level trudge westwards). The ridge is relentless, 1000m of virtually continuous ascent. I quite enjoyed it, though, and was glad I hadn't pushed the boat out too far yesterday. The views just get better and better and the cloud began to break too. Indeed, the view across the valley to pyramidal Glas Bheinn Mhor and the plateau-like Albannaich was really striking. In addition, the entire length of Glen Etive up to the 'Buachailles' is also a very famous view. Towards the top, a rocky ridge gives a little basic scrambling, reminiscent of the Gribin. The panorama from the summit is superb: a particularly brilliant view of Ben Cruachan (which I did in 2003) and down the loch to the coast. A fabulous array of peaks inland to Ben Nevis and beyond. Rum visible, bringing back memories of my wonderful day there last July. Fluffy clouds and bright sunshine, absolutely wonderful, and the mouth-watering prospect of the ridge to Glas Bheinn Mhor, with most of the really hard work done after dispatching the NE ridge. Starav is a giant tent-like peak, and an easy trot leads to the other 'summit', before a great, quite narrow ridge leads to the subpeak of Stob Coire Dhearg. This was superb in the sunshine, and followed by a steep descent above a craggy cwm to the pronounced Bealach Ghianheamaich. The continuation of the ridge is much more grassy, but also quite steep: first up to the top of Meall na Tri Tighearean, then rather tiringly to the summit of Glas Bheinn Mhor, another fine but contrasting peak - classically pyramidal and grassy, a perfect counterpoint to Ben Starav. The descent is rockier, down to the very obvious bealach below Stob Coire Albannaich. It had clouded over, and rain was threatening, but after a very welcome drink from the stream and a snack, I ploughed up the steep initial climb to gain the large gently sloping plateau which leads, rather confusingly, to a final broad ridge and the summit of Albannaich. This is another contrast, a long hill with a fabulous view over the Blackmount peaks. A gigantic black cloud swept in from the east as I was climbing - it was obvious I was going to get wet, so I tried to outrun it, pelting down towards Beinn Chaorach. The route was very indistinct, and the rain caught me quite quickly despite the speed of my descent on perfect springy turf. I should have continued over Chaorach but instead dropped down the extremely steep slopes leading to the Robber's Waterfall. This was wet, tussocky and as steep as it looked from above (and below). Eventually I gained the bottom of the valley and the rain passed, drying me out after a real drenching. Sunshine for the return to the car, after which I camped in an idyllic spot further up Glen Etive. An excellent river bath, mackerel and rice, and a tiny dram made for a delightful evening with views up to Creise and beyond.
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