Monday, December 11, 2023

Esk Pike maxed

Peaks: Esk Pike
Area: Borrowdale, Lake District
As with Great End this time last year, Esk Pike is a lesser known peak surrounded by more famous and distinguished mountains. And as with Great End, I couldn't remember doing it before. So, again as with Great End, I decided to make it the target of a longish loop to maximise its value. I wanted to go from the door of the hostel (my favourite in the Lakes) so did so after a nice breakfast with Vic. I jogged to Stonethwaite and then embarked on the track to Langstrath. This, rather like its name suggests, feels a little Scottish and is not typical of the Lakes. It kinks markedly to the west quite quickly and opens out to a broad valley with views of Esk Pike and Bowfell at the head. I had only been up it once before, with Tim in the late 90s, when we came to do Cam Crag Ridge, a well known scramble. That was an option today, but the weather was shaping up nicely so I wanted to go further. A mid-layer of mist was giving some spectacular views and it was cold and crisp, infinitely better than yesterday. Langstrath is gentle but long, and it narrows towards the top when the path becomes surprisingly vague (most people head up Stake Pass before the upper section). I was heading for Angle Tarn but unfortunately entered the mist at this point - it was so thick that viz was dramatically reduced and I had to be quite careful to find my way to the lake. In fact I virtually walked into it before I properly saw it, such was the denseness of the mist. The main path from Mickleden represents a huge contrast, engineered and very popular (although not today!). As I climbed above the tarn, the mist began to peel away with stunning views of Bowfell as it poked through into a blue sky. A little higher I found the turn-off for Ore Gap (I was here just after lockdown for my solo Langdale Horseshoe) and ploughed up this, some verglas at the top. It clouded over as I turned right for the rocky summit of Esk Pike but the summit still gave great views to Scafell Pike, the Langdale Pikes and Skiddaw, as well as Morecambe Bay in the distance. A nice little terrace gives a comfortable descent to Esk Hause. From here, I perhaps should have extended the day but I didn't want to overexert myself and was moving quickly. Great Gable made a superb backdrop to the rest of the descent, which is very comfortable and fast. It is also familiar down to Styhead Tarn, another major crossing point and familiar from several classic long fell races that I have done. From the tarn, I got down to Stockley Bridge and Seathwaite in around 25 minutes, then continued along the road to Seatoller and back to the hostel. Over 21k but less than 900m elevation - in 3.10. A delightful amble around Rosthwaite and the Derwent followed, more convinced than ever that this is the best time to visit the Lakes, mid-week in mid-winter.

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