Peaks: Beinn Achaladair (1038m), Meall Bhuidhe, Beinn a'Chreachain (1081m)Area: Breadalbane, Scotland
These two were a pleasant surprise, and considerably more interesting than their more famous neighbour Beinn Dorain which I remember slogging up a few days after the Jura Fell Race in 2014. In fact, both felt wilder than the average Southern Highlands peak, which might be due to their position. The weather changed in the night, with rain giving way to morning drizzle, low cloud and much colder temperatures. So I took my time, had a bacon bap, and relaxed for a bit before detecting an improvement (which was forecast) and setting off from the bleak car park near Achaladar farm. A trudge across moorland leads to the bigger slog up Coire Achaladair: I had been up this before en route to Dorain and it is a fair old slog. The cloud was lifting a little, although slowly, and I felt much better than yesterday after a good night's sleep. In fact I was surprised how good I felt, which boded well for future outings on this trip, the marathon seemingly out of my legs. At the top of the Coire, an easing and then a very windy few minutes at the broad col. This wind turned into a tailwind up to the South top of Achaladair, although it was also very cold, quite an intense windchill. Occasional glimpses through the mist towards Rannoch Moor. During one clearance I assumed I was looking across to the final peak of Beinn a'Chreachain. It was actually just the main Achaladair summit, which I reached fairly quickly as the mist came down again: very cold so I didn't hang around. The weather finally cleared properly just after I left the summit, revealing the superb crags to the north, as well as the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor. A steep descent with some rocky sections to Bealach an Aoghlainn. A steep pull from this gains the subsidiary summit of Meall Bhuidhe, now in sunshine. Superb views over the Southern Highlands. I still felt fresh for the final climb to Beinn a'Chreachain, not as shapely as Achaladair but nicely remote feeling and a long way from any road, reminiscent of a peak much further north. Again, it was cold and windy but now sunny with light mist. The route down was delightful, down a broad ridge initially and then down runnable grass to the wild cwm containing Lochan Chreachain. I had a snack here and a drink from the stream. Lower down, the path hugs the side of a steep stream down to wonderful Caledonian pines and the Water of Tulla, which has to be forded (there used to be a bridge). Beinn Achaladair looks very impressive here. Finally, a long slog along the tracks to Achaladair Farm and the remains of a C17 castle, and then the car for a much needed feed. Better, but also longer at 22.5k/1450m, than I had anticipated.