Rhinogydd loop from Cwm Mynach

Peaks: Rhinog Fach, Y Llethr, Crib y Rhiw

Area: Rhinogydd, Eryri

Cwm Mynach really is tucked away, a hidden gem even by the standards of the Rhinogydd. If I have been here before, it was a long time ago - with Steve on one of our early traverses of the range around 1990 perhaps? After meeting Hayley and Allan in Dolgellau, I suggested basing ourselves here and doing a southerly loop. This time last year I did the N-S traverse solo, and I always feel the Rhinogs have a sense of occasion to them, it's a special place. The weather was even more perfect than last year, crystal clarity, deep blue skies, as it has been for weeks. Not too hot either, which helped for the long approach along tracks through Cwm Mynach for which we adopted a very gentle jogging approach (they had both done Ras y Gader yesterday). This is a mixture of native woodland and conifers, with lots of cuckoos and wood warblers. Llyn Cwm Mynach is hidden by the trees and the route continues to head north at a crossroads to eventually cross Pont y Brenin at some old cottages (and a slate bothy worth noting!). From here, Rhinog Fach looms from an unfamiliar angle, and getting there was surprisingly simple and well trodden. A little path leads up to lonely Llyn y Bi which I have often looked down on from the ridge above. Then a comfortable contouring path leads up to gain the familiar terrain of the main ridge crossing above Llyn Hywel, one of Eryri's finest spots, looking particularly stunning as we emerged: blue waters shimmering with the sea and Llyn glistening beyond. A rocky haul up Rhinog Fach and then a slightly unwise detour down the steep slopes near the South Ridge right down to the shores of Llyn Hywel. Awkward, although it meant we could avoid the steep scree to Y Llethr by rounding the lake to the west and climbing the vague shoulder which leads to the Llethr plateau. All relatively comfortable, and the theme continues for the grassy runnable terrain heading south with wonderful views of Cader and the sea. We encountered a large group of runners here, the first people we'd seen all day - just like old times in the Rhinogs. At Crib y Rhiw. we skipped over a stile and took a steep path down to old mine workings and this led fairly comfortably back to fire tracks on the other side of Cwm Mynach. We were very dehydrated by this point, as it has been so dry most of the small streams have dried up. A delightful circuit, really enjoyable, and a nice private bathing stream back at the van in Cwm Mynach. After fish and chips in Barmouth I headed towards Ganllwyd and spent the night in the van at Pont Ty'n y Groes.