Area: Knoydart, Scotland
Knoydart is one of Scotland's wildest and most wonderful corners, and this was my third visit. Strictly speaking, these hills are not in Knoydart proper, but they have all the attributes of the area. I did Sgurr na Ciche from Sourlies in April 1998 with Rob and Pete, but am almost certain we descended the gully rather than continuing over this ridge. After a leisurely breakfast by the van, I got on the bike and was delighted to be able ride all the way past Glendessary lodge to the last cottage in the valley, shaving 3k or so off a lengthy outing. From here, a long and boggy trudge along the path to Sourlies, which I vaguely remembered from 1998. After a few miles, a path branches off for the first peak, Coireachan, and rather like Gulvain on Friday it is bleakly obvious that this will be a relentless haul. It was, although relieved by increasingly interesting views to the west and wild Loch Nevis. Towards the top, like Fraoch Beinn yesterday, it eases and becomes a pleasant ridge for a short while to the summit. Superb views over to Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr na Ciche, right up there as a Highlands view. Beyond Loch Nevis, Eigg and Rum, picking out all the summits I did on my 2021 visit. Further right, and closer, Loch Quioch and the peaks like Spidean Mialaich that I did this time last year. The ridge drops very steeply and loses a lot of height to the Bealach Coire nan Gall. The rest of the ridge is complex with lots of little crags, but really enjoyable. I tried to scramble where I could but the whole thing was wonderful, in perfect weather with light fluffy clouds and glorious sunshine, never too warm. The smaller summit is taken in before an even better rocky ridge curves round to the summit of Garbh Choich Mhor. I had this to myself, even better views west, then descended to the atmospheric little col of the Feadan na Ciche, last visited 27 years ago. That day was cold with wet snow, but as I had already done Sgurr na Ciche I cut the traverse short and descended the wonderful rocky gully to the west, which is the only escape route. This is steep and weaving, with some light scrambling, and eventually allows for an escape east over the pass that forms the gates of Knoydart. The return path back to Glen Dessary is fairly arduous as it is so boggy. But it went reasonably well and I was back at the bike in just under four hours, which isn't too bad given the nature of the terrain. A lovely gravel ride back to the car and a much needed feed.
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