Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Atlantic Slab, Filiast

A tremendous outing yesterday on a perfect May day, climbing in the wonderful Cwm Grianog on the Filiast slabs. I've wanted to visit this crag for years and here was the perfect opportunity. Walked into the cwm with Alwyn, and began the long slog up to the base of the Atlantic Slab ridge, a 1000ft Mod/Diff/Gr 3, one of the longest routes in Wales and a fantastic outing with a real Alpine flavour. Took us about two hours, alternating leads efficiently, running out full 50m+ rope lengths every time for six long pitches. Position wonderful throughout, deep blue skies, warm sunshine and crystal clear views over Tryfan and the Carneddau. We kept to the crest throughout, moving left over the main slab (Central Route) towards the end. The climbing is very easy, but sustained at the standard with very few broken sections and some nice slabs. The route finishes right on the summit of Carnedd y Filiast. We then descended to the cwm, popping out - more by luck than judgment - beneath Tree Slab, a venue of which I knew nothing but which looked great. Alwyn led the obvious key line up the central crack - White Lightning (S). This is a real hidden gem, a superb straight crack, lined with quartz leading to a small ledge, then an overlap and a delicate slab with perfect friction to the top. The crack to the left (right of the VD Friction) appeared to be a new route (!) so I led it. Nice climbing to another quartz lined crack, but unsurprisingly also a bit more vegetation, passing two trees to a ledge. Belayed here, then Alwyn led up the finishing arete of Friction (VD). Called the route Crystalline Crack (HVD) but, assuming the crag has at least been visited since the 1993 guidebook, I think it very likely such an obvious, simple route has been done before. A splendid little crag, isolated, perfect rock.

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