Sunday, April 12, 2009

Dinas Cromlech climbs

Crag: Dinas Cromlech
Routes: Dives/Better Things (HS 4a,4b), Sabre Cut (VS 4c,4b)

A splendid few hours on two classic climbs in perfect spring weather yesterday. Probably 17 years or so since my last visit to Dinas Cromlech, so it was especially good to get back on two famous routes. The first pitch of Dives was nice and steady: up a surprisingly steep crack to good sharp holds, before a wet undercut traverse on unusual rock - below a black overhang with plenty of gear - led to the belay on the Forest. Vic then merged the easy middle pitch (the juggy crack on Spiral Stairs) with the surprisingly awkward groove. This is a fine pitch: steep and in an exceptional position, a mixture of relatively easy jamming and bridging. After an awkward descent, Vic then led both pitches of Sabre Cut. The first goes up the steep crack right of Dives, with one enjoyable hardish move up right to gain vegetated slabs and the Forest belay. The final corner crack is excellent - thought provoking and quite sustained but with good, often incut, holds and interesting solutions never far away.

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