Holyhead Mountain

Crag: Holyhead Mountain
Routes: Wally's Folly (VD:led), Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a:sec), Primrose Hill Gutter (M:sol), Plimsole (D:led p.1), New Boots and Panties (S4a:led), Mrs Murdock (S4a:sec), Slab Direct (VD:led)
An enjoyable climbing session at a new venue for me. A very good crag too: with confidence-boosting, easy, well-protected climbs the order of the day. Unfortunately, although we missed the showers all day, a cold wind made life a little uncomfortable and tricky at times. Wally's Folly (VD) was a nice, steady start up a ramp, groove and crack towards the left of the crag. Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a), led by Alwyn, was a little better: slabby and enjoyable. Desperate to get out of the wind, we secreted ourselves in the fun, old-fashioned chimney of Plimsole (D). I led up big blocks and flakes to a mercifully windless niche. Then Alwyn led up the easy quartz crack to the top. New Boots and Panties (S4a) upped the grade a bit, and was a pleasing lead for me. Scrappily up to a pinnacle, then a gently sustained diagonal crack up the sharp, rough quartzite typical of this crag. Mrs Murdock (S4a) takes the corner crack to the right. Finished with a lead of the easy long pitch, Slab Direct (VD), to the right of the crag: a simple slab leads to an enjoyable slabby groove.