Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Crowded Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: The Ramp (wII/III 2,3,1: led in 2 p's)

An opportunistic and very brief visit before the forecast thaw sets in. Sadly, the day was marred by (without wishing to be rude) two incompetent buffoons who spent a ridiculous amount of time on this very simple route and thereby prevented us from doing anything else that day. Rather vexing, given that this is likely to be the last opportunity for a while, as the thaw sets in. Alwyn and I slogged up to the crags in very deep snow and thick mist: Idwal now just a bowl of white, the lake almost invisible. Dismayed to find three pairs queuing for The Ramp, particularly as we didn't even get there until early afternoon! As a rule, I refuse to queue for routes, but conditions were so perfect that we made an exception: also, crowds are inevitable whenever you go to Idwal in these conditions. The first pitch, when it came, was longer and more interesting than I'd expected: a couple of little icy pitches breaking up the uniform easy shallow gully. The stance was crowded but rather enchanting. A fully formed grotto of blue ice - a little rock cave almost entirely enclosed by enormous 2m-wide grounded blue icicles, with soft snowflakes falling outside. After another wait, I led the second pitch - the first 10 metres of which constitutes the only real climbing on the entire route, but even this is very simple, just a few fun moves on excellent ice to more good, easy-angled ice. It then curves round to a big block on the right, after which I just ran out the full 60m on easy snow to a belay. By now it was 4pm and too late to do Central Route, which I'd planned, so we just descended to the car.

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