Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2: led p.1,3), Introductory Gully (wII: led p.2)
A glorious contrast to the last few outings in that I finally got superb conditions, as this fantastic cold snap continues. A dreamlike early start in the dark with the moon directly above the summit of Y Garn. Idwal a bowl of ice and snow - thick cover throughout, the lake frozen solid, all beautiful shades of blue and white with little rock visible. We made our way up to the Idwal Stream which was a predictable choice as the ultimate easy winter trade route, but in such perfect nick today that we had to do it. I led up good thick water ice to perfect neve and a stance, before following Alwyn up an even better pitch up a steeper wall on wonderful snow-ice. We picked the most direct, steepest line throughout - around Grade III but never remotely difficult or serious, just short steps, and I continued direct over a little bulge to a stance surrounded by rimed rocks, blue ice and thick snow. We moved together for the rest of the route, which is very gentle, until emerging on the Llyn y Cwn plateau for breakfast. An easy descent in thick, often drifting snow, took us past the Devil's Kitchen to the Ramp, which we wanted to do. However, the place was swarming with climbers and queues had built up, so we continued down to Introductory Gully - which is low down and rarely in any kind of condition. Another easy route, but worthwhile. Followed Alwyn up the first pitch - thin initially - to better neve and a belay. I then led the second on firmer neve. An awkward, very tiring climb through chest-deep drifts allowed us to traverse below the upper cliff to gain an easy descent. Back by lunchtime.