Merletti climbing

Crag: Merletti, Valsesia
Routes: Central Slab (f6a+:led), Left Slab (f6a:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's exertions, so this morning we allowed ourselves a leisurely breakfast then drove north up the valley to the roadhead above the Pastore Refuge for excellent views of the East wall of the Italian side of Monte Rosa. This face gets almost Himalayan in scale further north towards Macugnaga, but even here the upward views are impressive. I spied a large bolted boulder right by the road near Merletti and couldn't resist having a go at the central line up the steep slab marking the south side of the boulder, maybe 40ft high. This proved far more technical than it looked, with a desperate start at 6b/c or so using tiny sidepulls and foot smears to move above the first bolt. Tired after yesterday, I resorted to a brief spot of aid to gain easier climbing above. Small horizontal ledges then made for easier progress to the top. The route further left was a little easier, but it still had a hard start. We then left for the village to get some provisions before embarking on our next trip up to the Ravelli bivouac hut.