Monte Rosa traverse

Peaks: Signalkuppe (4556m/14947ft), Ludwigshohe (4341m/14242ft), Corno Nero/Schwarzhorn (4321m/14176ft)
Routes: South-West Flank (F+), South-West Ridge (PD-), North-West Flank (PD)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
A relatively late start by Alpine standards, with a 4am breakfast call, perhaps illustrating the pedestrian nature of this route up the Italian flank of Monte Rosa. But it was still exciting to be back in the high Alps, despite our modest plans for the day, and I savoured the ambience as we set off from the Mantova hut up the Garstelet glacier just before 5am. Small pools of light from the headtorch soon gave way to the half light of early morning, and the eerie blue glow from the glacial scenery and large seracs below Vincent. I kept a slow plod going, but Huw began to suffer again as we began the steep slopes east of Vincent. This was hardly surprising, given our short period of acclimatisation, and he seemed OK after a short rest. We continued in this vein, plodding upwards to the col then curving west past some big crevasses towards the Lyskamm. We passed just below the rocky outcrop of the Balmenhorn before gaining the Lysjoch - the obvious large col where views open out to the north. Passing into Switzerland, we enjoyed the superb new views over the Dufourspitze ahead and Matterhorn left. Some big cloud banks boiled over the ridges of the Matterhorn and Ober Gabelhorn. The contrast between the rocky peaks around Zermatt and the enchanting white world of Monte Rosa was stunning. The dramatic beauty of these upper Monte Rosa slopes is just remarkable: the low sun now reflecting off the fresh snow crystals. Huw continued to struggle, however, and as we traversed below the Parrotspitze life became much harder as the new snow had blown around and drifted in places. Soft and draining plodding is never ideal: even less so at this altitude, and his pace understandably slowed dramatically. After several breaks, we finally crested the steep and windblown slopes up to the Col Gnifetti. Huw couldn't go any further, but I could untie safely up here and enjoyed the final icy slopes up to the summit of Signalkuppe and its celebrated hut. Surprisingly steep and icy, quite sporting: a little over 3 hours from Rifugio Mantova. Great views from the summit, although cloud boiled up again to the east. The desperately cold wind was a real problem, however, and I was conscious of Huw waiting at the col. My feet were getting very cold, so I tore myself away from the views of Nordend and beyond to climb down the steep slope to rejoin him. I really wanted to take in the Zumsteinspitze and was very disappointed not to be able to, but Huw had to descend. As we approached the Parrotspitze, another key target, I asked again - but he was still suffering so we had to continue down. A shame, but as we regained the Lysjoch, sunshine and calm weather, Huw started to feel better and agreed to wait while I collected a few more peaks. I thoroughly enjoyed the lovely symmetrical snow arete leading SE to the summit of the Ludwigshohe. The weather was clearing west, and I was struck by the proximity of the fine looking peak of Corno Nero, probably the most impressive summit on this ridge. I could not resist, so ploughed down to the Zurbriggen col and up the 40m steep slope to the summit. This gave very enjoyable easy snow climbing, perhaps grade II in UK winter terms, and led up to a very airy summit ridge. A spectacular location, with stunning views over the ridge back to Signalkuppe. Stunning clarity of light, with the deepest blue sky imaginable and distant views even to Monte Viso, well to the south. I now had to get back to Huw, which necessitated a climb back over the Ludwigshohe arete. This was tough, and I started to suffer towards the top, but a long downward plod to the Mantova hut was all we had left to do. After a break, we headed down the easier lower route to the Indren glacier and the cable cars: low cloud by now, quite grim higher up. A late lunch of proscuito panini in Alagna was much appreciated, and we then enjoyed a few hours of relaxation at the campsite.