Idwal ice climbing

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: The Ramp (wIII/II 2,3,1:led p.1,3), The Curtain (wIV 4:sec)
Despite the prolonged cold snap, the ice routes in Idwal were the only realistic option today. There's been no freeze-thaw, so the snow remains soft and unconsolidated and any designs on more unusual routes (ie. those I haven't done before) had to remain unrealised. Prevailing conditions were pretty dire, too, but it was the last opportunity to get out before a rapid thaw sets in. Mick and I left Ogwen Cottage in persistent rain and low cloud, prospects grim. A fair amount of soft snow led for slow progress up to the crag, where we found the Ramp - unusually - free of crowds. I thought it would make a good warm-up, as I haven't swung an axe in anger for almost two years (unless you count the rapid dash up Corno Nero last July). I led up the left-hand variant start, steep powder leading to good ice which took screws, then more good climbing to regain the normal route higher up. Sadly, strong winds had blown a large volume of powder on to the route - and clouds of spindrift funnelled down the gully intermittently. It made this easy route better and a little harder than when I have done it in the past, however, as it was not hacked out. Mick led the steeper second in hard conditions of driving wind and spindrift, very atmospheric, which got worse as we turned the corner. We topped out in clouds of windblown powder snow, which combined with driving falling snow to make for a challenging and unpleasant descent! Cold and wet, we retrieved the sacs, warmed up, and decided to top-rope the more technical Curtain before finishing. This takes a beautiful chandelier of ice above the Twll Du path, and was well formed with good ice build-up. With my archaic strap-on crampons and straight axes the route was at my technical limit: a steep start leads to a ledge, then a sort of ice-tube between two huge stalactites leads to the top. This section was much steeper than similarly graded ice pitches I've done in the past - the classic grade IV South Gully for instance - and I fluffed the final pull-up. Still, it made for a good workout and it certainly warmed me up. A soggy and windy walk-out led to a wet Ogwen. I then drove to Cadole via St Asaph and attempted the normal Friday run up Famau in steady snow. Drifts near the fingerpost were draining, so I adapted a different 7 mile circuit before retiring for a pint. An hour or two later, an extraordinary blizzard hit the Welsh border, but (very) luckily I was at home in front of the fire by then.