Routes: Gwter Fawr (II:sol), Face Route (IV 4,3,3,3,3,2:led p.3,5,6), Cyrn Las Ridge (I/II:sol)
Unprecedented ice climbing conditions for the time of year, so it was good to finally get the chance to take advantage on April Fool's Day. The Pass was almost deserted as we started the walk-in under disappointingly leaden skies - the ferocious easterly still blowing hard - perhaps some explanation for the lack of crowds on Easter Monday. We were both tired, me after yesterday's 21 mile run, Vic after a triathlon, so took almost an hour to reach the crag. All very atmospheric, though, with huge drifts in places and the ice-streaked cliffs of Cyrn Las towering above. Indeed, apart from the winter trade route of Sergeants Gully, I'd only previously visited this crag for the ultra classic rock climb of Main Wall, 20 years ago. Our chosen line of Face Route is immediately obvious, even from the road, a series of linked icefalls leading to a snowfield and exit gully. It looked good and lengthy, and we moved up easy slopes to gain the start of Gwter Fawr, a simple but spectacular grade I climb that traverses the face via a narrow gangway - rather like a more exposed version of Jack's Rake. It was very icy today, and we enjoyed good sport taking a few steeper variants until we arrived higher up Gwter Fawr at a belay. I then followed Vic up the superb first pitch of Face Route: solid water ice up to a steep bulge, which was solid grade IV throughout but went a little more easily than it looked, even with my archaic tools! It eased a little after an exposed move round the bulge, and led to a more delicate traverse on frozen turf and snow-ice. The second pitch, conversely, was harder than it looked and remained more Vic's territory than mine: slabby water ice, a little more fragile, and quite sustained, frontpointing made harder by fierce gusts of wind, and very little evidence of previous ascents. From here I led a short third up to a niche before Vic led through up another steep little pitch to an easing. The route wasn't over, however, and I led a long pitch up a series of easy slabby little walls, just an inclined snowfield really, to gain the bottom of the long exit gully. This was a very nice contrast to the climbing below: a classic gully, much easier, but atmospheric with great rock architecture and tremendous views across the valley. An icy chockstone was fun, and a couple of other short bulges led to a final easy angled exit funnel. After descending to free a jammed rope, we continued up the top section of the fine Cyrn Las ridge: a superbly contrasting finale, making this long route even more varied, a splendid 1000ft blend of steep technical water ice, easy snow climbing, exposed gangways, atmospheric gullies, and a narrow Alpine ridge. And it had seen very little traffic, which added to the pleasure. Surprisingly good snow conditions on the ridge (in comparison to last Tuesday, for instance!) but quite challenging: as was the walk along to Cwm Glas in a very strong and very cold wind. It was hard to make progress in places, and we took some time to locate the complex descent, which weaves through troublesome ground right of Parsley Fern gully to gain the base of Cwm Glas: a glacial bowl of deep snow, completely deserted. From here, a mixture of glissading and jogging got us down to the Pass in half an hour or so.
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