Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby
Routes: Flake Crack (VS 4c:sh), Twin Caves Crack (HS 4b:sol/sh), Dinnerplate Crack (HS 4c:sh)
Flake Crack is probably Cheshire's most famous climb, although such a claim should be seen in relative terms! I've done a few routes at Helsby over the years, but it's not somewhere I've spent much time. However, I had a couple of hours spare today, and with a long spell of dry and sunny weather continuing, it seemed like a good choice (as it tends to be slimy and green in winter). I was alone, so did Flake Crack on a loose shunt. Although short, the route deserves its minor classic status: a perfect sandstone crack and a very strong line. Easy climbing up a lower pillar, nice moves up pockets and interesting knobbly sandstone, leads to the juggy crack itself. This is not too polished, and gives excellent juggy laybacking: made slightly easier by the ripples and rugosities on the left wall. An exciting finish, particularly with the rope trapped in the deep crack! The route to its left (Twin Caves Crack) felt a touch harder to me, despite the grade (these routes may have been upgraded now). The crux comes low down: a fierce pull (on jugs, admittedly) and high step left to overcome a mini-roof. Then fine climbing on great holds to a steeper finish. Again, cleaner and more solid than is typical for sandstone. Less sustained, perhaps, but with a harder crux. The same could be said for Dinnerplate Crack, which again has a very steep start involving a haul up big rounded jugs to high footholds then easier climbing up to a final slab. A jog round Helsby Quarry to finish.