Friday, March 18, 2016

Lost Waterfalls trail (Chiriqui, Panama)

My first proper taste of the cloud forest above Boquete in the Panamanian Highlands. After flying into Panama City, I had taken the bus to David in Chiriqui province. A noisy night in that hot and dusty city, then an early morning bus today up to the relative cool of Boquete in the Chiriqui Highlands. A stunning morning of exceptional dry season clarity: not a cloud in the sky. It was so good I was momentarily tempted to run up Volcan Baru after checking into my hotel. But I resisted the urge and instead got a taxi into the hills where I decided to do this trail more or less on a whim. It was a fine choice, and got me right out into the heart of the cloud forest almost immediately. A little bridge, then steep climbing through the forest past a series of waterfalls. Some great views over the canopy to Volcan Baru, howler monkeys calling and some splendid birds including antbirds and the semi-endemic yellow-thighed finch. The path was surprisingly steep in places, some hauling up lianas and bamboo necessary. But the atmosphere in the dripping and mysterious cloud forest was wonderful and I thoroughly enjoyed myself: the third and final waterfall was quite impressive and the first had superb views from the pools above it. Before getting back to the road, I spent some time in a garden near the trailhead, looking out over the flowers and cloud forest as cloud gradually enveloped Volcan Baru. Refuelled with a classic hearty Sancocho.

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