Crag: Sanna Bay
Routes: Yee Haa (V0), Maverick (V0), Goose (V0), Crashed and Burned (V1), Iceman (V1), Ladies Room (V0), Charlie's Crack (VB)
Crag: Sanna West/Marquee Buttress
Routes: Elephant's Head Crack (VD:sol), Portuairk Seam (HVD:sol), Sanna Slab (S 4b:sol), Marquee slabs (M:sol)
One of the most perfect beaches anywhere, we were all eager to get back to Sanna after our first visit on Sunday. This time, we walked in from the car park in Sanna itself (a collection of houses by the sea) through the large dune systems. The day was perfect, again, not a cloud in the sky. And this time I'd packed the rock boots and chalk bag. I knew there was bouldering on the most remote, southerly beach: indeed, I had seen two couples climbing there on Sunday. I don't like bouldering much, but I realised quite quickly that this 'crag' wasn't really bouldering: more like miniature routes. The rock was perfect gabbro, running to superb holds and giving perfect friction. This meant that all the routes (at least the ones I did) felt more like short 5m HVS's than technical boulder problems. The crag is fairly high in places, too, although the perfect sandy landings seem almost too good to be true, as does the general location and ambience on this utterly idyllic beach. M was on photoshoot duty and did a fine job of capturing the essence of the place. I did numerous 'routes' whilst here: hard to remember exactly what, but the juggy flake crack in the centre and the steep wall further right stuck out. Quite a few good natural groove lines too. After lunch and a paddle, I jogged up to the crag I dubbed 'Marquee Buttress' after its elongated tent shape. This might have been Sanna West, which does have a few easy routes on it. If so, I may have done Adder and Subtractor at VD/S. If not (and I had no real way of telling) then I suppose these are very modest new routes. The crag is the tent-shaped slab visible from the beach: a 10 minute walk uphill from the beach. The angle is very gentle, perhaps a little too gentle to be worthwhile, but the rock and general situation is superb. Perfect, clean gabbro. The 'Y' shaped crack (the 'elephant's head' feature) gave a good route with two variation finishes up delicious narrow flake cracks which went up either side of the 'trunk and ears': VD at the most. The thinner seam to its left gave a slightly harder route, again slabby, while the blanker slab to the right gave a more delicate line at around S 4b on small ripples. All routes led to a ledge, above which the obvious finish took a steeper wall up a line of jugs. I then scrambled up the crest of the buttress, no more than Moderate - but 100ft+. Astonishing views over Sanna Bay to Eigg and Rum from this vantage point high on the hillside. Later on, I took a pre-dinner run up to the lakes on Beinn na Seilg and saw a white-tailed eagle at close range (but I settled for some little lines on Stacha Dubh having failed to find the crag that was supposed to be on the 'western slopes'!).
Tuesday, May 31, 2016
Monday, May 30, 2016
Ben More run
Peaks: A'Chioch (867m), Ben More (966m)
Area: Isle of Mull, Scotland
As we were staying very close to the Kilchoan-Tobermory ferry, a day on Mull seemed inevitable. We went across to the south of the island two years ago, but had never explored by car. The day dawned even clearer, and we enjoyed a memorable crossing of the Sound of Mull looking up at yesterday's peak of Ben Hiant as we sailed. It was then a very pleasant drive along the shores of the Sound to Salen, then crossing the isthmus to Loch na Keal on the western side of Mull. This feels wilder and more remote, although Ben More is obviously a popular objective, as befits its status as the only island Munro outside Skye. It is a very fine peak indeed, although the normal tourist route is a nasty slog from sea level. Instead, I headed up Gleann na Beinne Fada. This was hot but relatively gentle and runnable the whole way to the steepening before the col between Beinn Fhada and my first objective, A'Chioch. Time was very limited (two hours in total for the full traverse), as the family had gone for a drink in Salen and I'd arranged to be collected opposite the obvious island of Eorsa. Superb views inland as I crested the ridge at the col, then opening out to sea as I embarked on the mild scramble leading to the top of A'Chioch. The ridge is quite distinctive and you can get a reasonable amount of rock if you stick to the crest. From A'Chioch, Ben More looks magnificent: a classic pyramidal peak. Just a few fluffy clouds above as I ran down the broad ridge to the next, narrower col. From here, the scrambling continues in the same vein, although it is better and more continuous. Again, I stuck religiously to the crest and enjoyed the final climb immensely. Fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain as I reached the top. The Paps of Jura immediately obvious, bringing fond memories of the race in 2014. Scarba, Iona and (much closer) Ulva were all clearly visible, as was most of the topography of Mull, a wonderfully varied island. No water or food, so I pelted down the tedious tourist route, joining the path along the Abhainn Dhiseig before branching off north over tussocky moorland to meet the family at the appointed place, very hot by now. Quite tiring to fit all this into two hours, but a wonderful and memorable circuit. We took a leisurely route back to Tobermory and the ferry, stopping at various points of interest along the way.
Area: Isle of Mull, Scotland
As we were staying very close to the Kilchoan-Tobermory ferry, a day on Mull seemed inevitable. We went across to the south of the island two years ago, but had never explored by car. The day dawned even clearer, and we enjoyed a memorable crossing of the Sound of Mull looking up at yesterday's peak of Ben Hiant as we sailed. It was then a very pleasant drive along the shores of the Sound to Salen, then crossing the isthmus to Loch na Keal on the western side of Mull. This feels wilder and more remote, although Ben More is obviously a popular objective, as befits its status as the only island Munro outside Skye. It is a very fine peak indeed, although the normal tourist route is a nasty slog from sea level. Instead, I headed up Gleann na Beinne Fada. This was hot but relatively gentle and runnable the whole way to the steepening before the col between Beinn Fhada and my first objective, A'Chioch. Time was very limited (two hours in total for the full traverse), as the family had gone for a drink in Salen and I'd arranged to be collected opposite the obvious island of Eorsa. Superb views inland as I crested the ridge at the col, then opening out to sea as I embarked on the mild scramble leading to the top of A'Chioch. The ridge is quite distinctive and you can get a reasonable amount of rock if you stick to the crest. From A'Chioch, Ben More looks magnificent: a classic pyramidal peak. Just a few fluffy clouds above as I ran down the broad ridge to the next, narrower col. From here, the scrambling continues in the same vein, although it is better and more continuous. Again, I stuck religiously to the crest and enjoyed the final climb immensely. Fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain as I reached the top. The Paps of Jura immediately obvious, bringing fond memories of the race in 2014. Scarba, Iona and (much closer) Ulva were all clearly visible, as was most of the topography of Mull, a wonderfully varied island. No water or food, so I pelted down the tedious tourist route, joining the path along the Abhainn Dhiseig before branching off north over tussocky moorland to meet the family at the appointed place, very hot by now. Quite tiring to fit all this into two hours, but a wonderful and memorable circuit. We took a leisurely route back to Tobermory and the ferry, stopping at various points of interest along the way.
Sunday, May 29, 2016
Ben Hiant
Peaks: Ben Hiant (528m)
Area: Ardnamurchan, Western Highlands
Very much the signature peak of Western Ardnamurchan, Ben Hiant may only be a miniature mountain, but it dominates this part of the peninsula and begs to be climbed. It rises straight from the sea and was visible from our bedroom window in Kilchoan: it is also quite a complex little peak, with a distinct summit cone and interesting topography. Our family ascent topped off a memorable 46th birthday for me, particularly as this was the first full day of our Ardnamurchan holiday. In the morning, we visited the lighthouse cafe, then walked from Portuairk to Sanna Bay: some of the finest coastal scenery imaginable in perfect weather, with stunning views to the Small Isles of Rum, Muck and Eigg. The white sands and crystal clear waters of Sanna in the foreground. After lunch of pulled local venison, we drove round to the mountain road for the normal route up Ben Hiant. This gives a delightful walk, ideal for the normally reluctant children. A few steepish rises gives way to a grassy ridge with tremendous views over to Mull, the Small Isles and inland to the east to what looked like a stormy day over the Central Highlands: some tall thunderheads. Here though, all was calm and superbly clear. M and I took the normal traverse path just before the steep final summit cone, while unknown to me K and E took the direct scramble to the top! We reconvened at the summit, for spectacular views over the Inner Hebrides, Mull and our 'home village' of Kilchoan directly below. I had a tiny celebratory dram of Nevis Dew to mark the birthday and we headed down, all running at least part of the way.
Area: Ardnamurchan, Western Highlands
Very much the signature peak of Western Ardnamurchan, Ben Hiant may only be a miniature mountain, but it dominates this part of the peninsula and begs to be climbed. It rises straight from the sea and was visible from our bedroom window in Kilchoan: it is also quite a complex little peak, with a distinct summit cone and interesting topography. Our family ascent topped off a memorable 46th birthday for me, particularly as this was the first full day of our Ardnamurchan holiday. In the morning, we visited the lighthouse cafe, then walked from Portuairk to Sanna Bay: some of the finest coastal scenery imaginable in perfect weather, with stunning views to the Small Isles of Rum, Muck and Eigg. The white sands and crystal clear waters of Sanna in the foreground. After lunch of pulled local venison, we drove round to the mountain road for the normal route up Ben Hiant. This gives a delightful walk, ideal for the normally reluctant children. A few steepish rises gives way to a grassy ridge with tremendous views over to Mull, the Small Isles and inland to the east to what looked like a stormy day over the Central Highlands: some tall thunderheads. Here though, all was calm and superbly clear. M and I took the normal traverse path just before the steep final summit cone, while unknown to me K and E took the direct scramble to the top! We reconvened at the summit, for spectacular views over the Inner Hebrides, Mull and our 'home village' of Kilchoan directly below. I had a tiny celebratory dram of Nevis Dew to mark the birthday and we headed down, all running at least part of the way.
Saturday, May 28, 2016
Stob Ghabhar run
Peaks: Stob Ghabhar (1090m)
Area: Black Mount, Scotland
The usual snatched run en route to our whit week in the Highlands. After a night near Glasgow and breakfast in Tyndrum, I had a maximum of two hours to get into the mountains while the family had coffee and cakes in Bridge of Orchy. Although the normal route from Forest Lodge takes in the lower companion peak first, I decided to concentrate on the parent mountain of Stob Ghabhar, partly because it is a fine and dominant mountain, partly because I remember being rained off from it in 1993 as we retreated from a week of continual downpours on Skye. Nothing like that today, indeed in our last seven week-long trips to the Highlands we have barely seen any rain. That said, the weather wasn't quite as good as forecast as I ran alongside the Abhainn Shira until following the smaller tributary of the Allt Toaig. I was feeling fresh, the paths and tracks were good, and I made very rapid progress, running all the way to the upper corries before branching off up the steep hillside at Creag an Steallaire towards the upper cwm of Coire na Muic. From here, the onward route becomes less clear so I just ploughed straight up the steep slopes to the north hoping to emerge at the subsidiary top of the Aonach Eagach. This worked, and I emerged on a fine ridge with the mist trying to clear. It never quite managed it, but the weather heightened the atmosphere of a fine ridge. Not in the league of its Glencoe namesake, but it narrows nicely further on and becomes a brief arete before merging into the main summit ridge at a large snow patch, Intermittent views of Black Mount and Rannoch as the mist shifted in and out. Pelted down to Forest Lodge via a slight variation, just over two hours for the outing, and the sun finally came out in the main valley: it didn't go in again for the entire week.
Area: Black Mount, Scotland
The usual snatched run en route to our whit week in the Highlands. After a night near Glasgow and breakfast in Tyndrum, I had a maximum of two hours to get into the mountains while the family had coffee and cakes in Bridge of Orchy. Although the normal route from Forest Lodge takes in the lower companion peak first, I decided to concentrate on the parent mountain of Stob Ghabhar, partly because it is a fine and dominant mountain, partly because I remember being rained off from it in 1993 as we retreated from a week of continual downpours on Skye. Nothing like that today, indeed in our last seven week-long trips to the Highlands we have barely seen any rain. That said, the weather wasn't quite as good as forecast as I ran alongside the Abhainn Shira until following the smaller tributary of the Allt Toaig. I was feeling fresh, the paths and tracks were good, and I made very rapid progress, running all the way to the upper corries before branching off up the steep hillside at Creag an Steallaire towards the upper cwm of Coire na Muic. From here, the onward route becomes less clear so I just ploughed straight up the steep slopes to the north hoping to emerge at the subsidiary top of the Aonach Eagach. This worked, and I emerged on a fine ridge with the mist trying to clear. It never quite managed it, but the weather heightened the atmosphere of a fine ridge. Not in the league of its Glencoe namesake, but it narrows nicely further on and becomes a brief arete before merging into the main summit ridge at a large snow patch, Intermittent views of Black Mount and Rannoch as the mist shifted in and out. Pelted down to Forest Lodge via a slight variation, just over two hours for the outing, and the sun finally came out in the main valley: it didn't go in again for the entire week.
Tuesday, May 24, 2016
Moelwynion run
Up at 5am after an intermittent night's sleep. A very peaceful night, but cold. My tent door faced the sunrise over the Clwydians, which was a nice backdrop to my morrning cuppa. As I packed up the tent, the Snowdon Horseshoe glowed in the low sunlight, and a few wisps of mist gathered at the base of Dyffryn Mymbyr and over the summit of Tryfan. Beautiful light as I took an extended route back down to the valley, through the woods above Capel Curig with dozens of singing wood warblers. Home before 8am, in Warrington just after 9am!
Monday, May 23, 2016
Siabod run and wild camp
Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After my short climbing session, the clouds burnt away leaving a spectacular evening for my overnight camp. The usual wonderful views of the horseshoe from Plas y Brenin, then into the woods for the start of the route up Siabod. I didn't have any firm plans for campsites, beyond a vague intention to camp on the summit. But I know from past experience that my 700g mountain marathon tent is tricky to pitch in the wind, and found a perfect site just off the main path in the area of small bluffs and moraines around the 400m contour. The light wind blew from the north, so I pitched just below the moraine next to a clear stream. Beautiful spot with wonderful views west to the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon - and east over the moors. So sunset and sunrise views seemed likely. After pitching, I had some sandwiches then jogged to the summit. Stunning views, around 7.30pm, as the sun began to drop over the Irish Sea. Beyond the Pass, a golden sea. Views south stretched beyond Cader to Plynlimon, and west to Moel Famau. Perfect clarity. An easy jog down for a fine evening meal of mackerel, chilli and couscous relaxing on top of the bluff gazing towards Tryfan. Cuckoos calling in the woods below - the air quite still so the calls carried upwards. Nearby, skylarks and ravens overhead. Penderyn single malt made a fine nightcap. The sun dropped below Glyder Fach and the temperatures instantly plummeted. By the early hours, it was only just above freezing. Indeed, next morning the condensation on the car window was half-frozen.
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After my short climbing session, the clouds burnt away leaving a spectacular evening for my overnight camp. The usual wonderful views of the horseshoe from Plas y Brenin, then into the woods for the start of the route up Siabod. I didn't have any firm plans for campsites, beyond a vague intention to camp on the summit. But I know from past experience that my 700g mountain marathon tent is tricky to pitch in the wind, and found a perfect site just off the main path in the area of small bluffs and moraines around the 400m contour. The light wind blew from the north, so I pitched just below the moraine next to a clear stream. Beautiful spot with wonderful views west to the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon - and east over the moors. So sunset and sunrise views seemed likely. After pitching, I had some sandwiches then jogged to the summit. Stunning views, around 7.30pm, as the sun began to drop over the Irish Sea. Beyond the Pass, a golden sea. Views south stretched beyond Cader to Plynlimon, and west to Moel Famau. Perfect clarity. An easy jog down for a fine evening meal of mackerel, chilli and couscous relaxing on top of the bluff gazing towards Tryfan. Cuckoos calling in the woods below - the air quite still so the calls carried upwards. Nearby, skylarks and ravens overhead. Penderyn single malt made a fine nightcap. The sun dropped below Glyder Fach and the temperatures instantly plummeted. By the early hours, it was only just above freezing. Indeed, next morning the condensation on the car window was half-frozen.
Dyffryn Mymbyr climbing
Crag: The Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Evan's Corner (VS 4b:sh), Slab and Crack (VD:sol)
Only a very brief climbing session, combined with some bouldering, in a tiny window between my post-work drive to Capel Curig and my evening run/camp on Siabod. Clogwyn Wen wasn't particularly suitable for the shunt, so I trotted over to do Evan's Corner on the Blocks. This is the most obvious line here: a short but steep, and quite sweet, romp up the central corner. Shame it is so short, as it gives strenuous but positive laybacking with some giant jugs at the top. I then did the E1 5b Blockbuster, past the strenuous crux up to the obvious jug, where the route eases, but my shunt jammed so I had to downclimb. Not easy, to say the least! Did some bouldering, then sauntered up the easy Slab and Crack further right. The low cloud was now clearing to a beautiful evening: it cleared completely as I jogged back to the car at Plas y Brenin in preparation for the Siabod run and wild camp.
Routes: Evan's Corner (VS 4b:sh), Slab and Crack (VD:sol)
Only a very brief climbing session, combined with some bouldering, in a tiny window between my post-work drive to Capel Curig and my evening run/camp on Siabod. Clogwyn Wen wasn't particularly suitable for the shunt, so I trotted over to do Evan's Corner on the Blocks. This is the most obvious line here: a short but steep, and quite sweet, romp up the central corner. Shame it is so short, as it gives strenuous but positive laybacking with some giant jugs at the top. I then did the E1 5b Blockbuster, past the strenuous crux up to the obvious jug, where the route eases, but my shunt jammed so I had to downclimb. Not easy, to say the least! Did some bouldering, then sauntered up the easy Slab and Crack further right. The low cloud was now clearing to a beautiful evening: it cleared completely as I jogged back to the car at Plas y Brenin in preparation for the Siabod run and wild camp.
Saturday, May 21, 2016
Ffrith 5k
Race: Ffrith 5k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 17.33 (4th from 93 [1st V45])
Back to the same venue as the border league finale last month, in very similar conditions of heavy showers and a cool coastal breeze. I really did want this race to mark the end of my road running season, which has gone on far longer than usual as I continue to try to take in as many championship races as possible while I remain at the younger end of my 'new' age category! The 5k championships (which I have done three or four times) generally have a fairly small and self-selecting field, which means that you do find yourself a bit exposed in the wind. Eric and I just concentrated on the race, not the clock! I paced it reasonably well, out towards the Nova centre feeling relatively good, made up a few places on this section. Then back into the headwind, fairly light but totally exposed. I was making up ground on the very young lad in front, and did think I might be able to catch him and finish third. It wasn't to be, however, and I settled for 4th place - my highest at this event, although I ran 16.54 in the champs in 2012. Eric and I both won our categories at the prize giving. Currently North Wales V45 champion at 5 mile, half marathon and 5k distances, and Welsh V45 champion at the 10 mile distance. I'd be the first to admit it is largely by default, though, with the better runners currently out of action.
Time/Position: 17.33 (4th from 93 [1st V45])
Back to the same venue as the border league finale last month, in very similar conditions of heavy showers and a cool coastal breeze. I really did want this race to mark the end of my road running season, which has gone on far longer than usual as I continue to try to take in as many championship races as possible while I remain at the younger end of my 'new' age category! The 5k championships (which I have done three or four times) generally have a fairly small and self-selecting field, which means that you do find yourself a bit exposed in the wind. Eric and I just concentrated on the race, not the clock! I paced it reasonably well, out towards the Nova centre feeling relatively good, made up a few places on this section. Then back into the headwind, fairly light but totally exposed. I was making up ground on the very young lad in front, and did think I might be able to catch him and finish third. It wasn't to be, however, and I settled for 4th place - my highest at this event, although I ran 16.54 in the champs in 2012. Eric and I both won our categories at the prize giving. Currently North Wales V45 champion at 5 mile, half marathon and 5k distances, and Welsh V45 champion at the 10 mile distance. I'd be the first to admit it is largely by default, though, with the better runners currently out of action.
Thursday, May 19, 2016
Baslow climbing
Crag: Baslow, Peak District
Routes: Route 0 (D:sol), Route 1 (VD:sol), Stepped Groove (M:sol), Route 2 (D:sol), Route 3 (D:sol), Route 3.5 (VD:sol), Gully Wall (M:sol), Gully Wall Variation (VD:sol), Shallow Rib (VD:sol), Blocked Gully (M:sol), Chipped Slab (VD:sol), Resurgence (5a:sol)
A foggy morning in the Peak, which began to clear as I parked at the Curbar Gap after a night in Darley Dale. It was very early, there was nobody around, and the ambience was delightful as I sauntered down to one of the Peak District's more obscure climbing venues. Cuckoos calling, meadow pipits displaying. I had very little information about Baslow, and no guidebook save for some scrawled notes, but the gully walls (the cleanest and most popular section) were obvious after a short walk above the edge. Like Windgather, you probably wouldn't bother coming here with a partner, but it is an ideal venue for the solo explorer. Short routes on perfect unpolished gritstone, with a lovely open aspect looking out over the patchwork valleys and villages of Calver and Curbar. I enjoyed all the gentle routes on the first slab, picking my way up and down, and particularly enjoyed Chipped Slab on the far right. Gully Wall Variation was steep to start for the grade, and Route 3 was a bit awkward at the top. I finished by taking the two harder routes on the immaculate second slab. Both had low cruxes. Resurrection was by far the hardest: crux felt more like 5c/f6b, although I may have done it wrong. Small pockets and smears to a sharper pocket and better holds. I didn't continue up this one. Resurgence was easier: British 5a/HVS, up small but quite positive pockets to small ledges. I finished a little further left. The sun came out as I jogged back to the car and headed down for a fine bacon sandwich in Calver (all well before 9am!) before driving to Warrington.
Routes: Route 0 (D:sol), Route 1 (VD:sol), Stepped Groove (M:sol), Route 2 (D:sol), Route 3 (D:sol), Route 3.5 (VD:sol), Gully Wall (M:sol), Gully Wall Variation (VD:sol), Shallow Rib (VD:sol), Blocked Gully (M:sol), Chipped Slab (VD:sol), Resurgence (5a:sol)
A foggy morning in the Peak, which began to clear as I parked at the Curbar Gap after a night in Darley Dale. It was very early, there was nobody around, and the ambience was delightful as I sauntered down to one of the Peak District's more obscure climbing venues. Cuckoos calling, meadow pipits displaying. I had very little information about Baslow, and no guidebook save for some scrawled notes, but the gully walls (the cleanest and most popular section) were obvious after a short walk above the edge. Like Windgather, you probably wouldn't bother coming here with a partner, but it is an ideal venue for the solo explorer. Short routes on perfect unpolished gritstone, with a lovely open aspect looking out over the patchwork valleys and villages of Calver and Curbar. I enjoyed all the gentle routes on the first slab, picking my way up and down, and particularly enjoyed Chipped Slab on the far right. Gully Wall Variation was steep to start for the grade, and Route 3 was a bit awkward at the top. I finished by taking the two harder routes on the immaculate second slab. Both had low cruxes. Resurrection was by far the hardest: crux felt more like 5c/f6b, although I may have done it wrong. Small pockets and smears to a sharper pocket and better holds. I didn't continue up this one. Resurgence was easier: British 5a/HVS, up small but quite positive pockets to small ledges. I finished a little further left. The sun came out as I jogged back to the car and headed down for a fine bacon sandwich in Calver (all well before 9am!) before driving to Warrington.
Wednesday, May 18, 2016
Shining Tor fell race
Race: Shining Tor fell race, Goyt Valley (10k/1700ft)
Time/Position: 46.26 (40th from 232)
Looking for a pretext to visit my old friend Jon in the Peak, I settled on this race which coincidentally took in very similar ground to the run Vic and I had enjoyed in truly vile conditions on the 3rd of January. It is a really cracking circuit of Cheshire's highpoint, very runnable throughout, which leaves from the Errwood reservoir far below the ridgeline. Ideal for me, still coming off a long winter season devoted to road running, desperately trying to develop hill fitness before the summer fell races. The fields in these parts are always very impressive and competitive, so I started well back and just enjoyed the event. A road section along the lake side gave way to a narrow track and the start of the long but relatively gentle climb up towards the tops from the far end of the lake. This goes past Erwood Hall, then up zig zags to climb above the Shooter's Clough valley, eventually emerging on the spur which leads to the Cat and Fiddle. From here, the path heads north-west to a steeper (but still eminently runnable) path to the top of Shining Tor. Most of this was familiar ground from our January run, and it was nice to be able to see the distant views north from the subsequent ridge over Cats Tor to Pym's Chair. This gives superb, fast running throughout: much of it on slabs, conditions quite good throughout, cool, cloudy and dry. The final descent down The Street and Jep Clough is steeper, and I held back a bit - losing a few places - until emerging back at Erwood Reservoir and a final fast road section across the dam. Great race, thoroughly enjoyed it. After a quick wash in the lake, I drove to Jon's house in Darley Dale: always a very pleasant drive at dusk.
Time/Position: 46.26 (40th from 232)
Looking for a pretext to visit my old friend Jon in the Peak, I settled on this race which coincidentally took in very similar ground to the run Vic and I had enjoyed in truly vile conditions on the 3rd of January. It is a really cracking circuit of Cheshire's highpoint, very runnable throughout, which leaves from the Errwood reservoir far below the ridgeline. Ideal for me, still coming off a long winter season devoted to road running, desperately trying to develop hill fitness before the summer fell races. The fields in these parts are always very impressive and competitive, so I started well back and just enjoyed the event. A road section along the lake side gave way to a narrow track and the start of the long but relatively gentle climb up towards the tops from the far end of the lake. This goes past Erwood Hall, then up zig zags to climb above the Shooter's Clough valley, eventually emerging on the spur which leads to the Cat and Fiddle. From here, the path heads north-west to a steeper (but still eminently runnable) path to the top of Shining Tor. Most of this was familiar ground from our January run, and it was nice to be able to see the distant views north from the subsequent ridge over Cats Tor to Pym's Chair. This gives superb, fast running throughout: much of it on slabs, conditions quite good throughout, cool, cloudy and dry. The final descent down The Street and Jep Clough is steeper, and I held back a bit - losing a few places - until emerging back at Erwood Reservoir and a final fast road section across the dam. Great race, thoroughly enjoyed it. After a quick wash in the lake, I drove to Jon's house in Darley Dale: always a very pleasant drive at dusk.
Windgather climbing
Crag: Windgather, Peak District
Routes: Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), South Buttress Crack (M:sol), Overlapping Wall (S:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Side Face (S:sol), Buttress 2 Gully (M:sol), Rib and Slab (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), The Corner (D:sol), Staircase (M:sol), Heather Buttress (D:sol)
It had rained all day in the Peak, but it was sunny in Chester so I had some optimism it would clear as I drove across to the Shining Tor fell race after work. Sure enough, by Wilmslow the sun had come out so I initiated plan 'A' and stopped for a bit of easy gritstone climbing first. As its name suggests, Windgather dries quickly in the almost constant wind that blows into the face from the hills to the west. Conditions were delightful, and I thoroughly enjoyed soloing up the easy climbs that characterise this crag. I've done most (if not all) of them before, but particularly enjoyed the Face Routes on delightful slabby grit with the sun out, along with Leg Stump and the juggy Corner and Staircase. The pockets were wet after earlier rain but the climbing was all very pleasant. I finished with the isolated Heather Buttress, which gives easy slabby climbing to an intimidating finish up a steep little wall on big holds. I think it is my third time climbing here: famously simple, but a really lovely location with far reaching views over verdant hills and valleys. I could see the route of the fell race to the south, over Shining Tor and Pym's Chair, and that is where I headed after a short bouldering session at the quarry walls (doing most of the traverse and other problems).
Routes: Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), South Buttress Crack (M:sol), Overlapping Wall (S:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Side Face (S:sol), Buttress 2 Gully (M:sol), Rib and Slab (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), The Corner (D:sol), Staircase (M:sol), Heather Buttress (D:sol)
It had rained all day in the Peak, but it was sunny in Chester so I had some optimism it would clear as I drove across to the Shining Tor fell race after work. Sure enough, by Wilmslow the sun had come out so I initiated plan 'A' and stopped for a bit of easy gritstone climbing first. As its name suggests, Windgather dries quickly in the almost constant wind that blows into the face from the hills to the west. Conditions were delightful, and I thoroughly enjoyed soloing up the easy climbs that characterise this crag. I've done most (if not all) of them before, but particularly enjoyed the Face Routes on delightful slabby grit with the sun out, along with Leg Stump and the juggy Corner and Staircase. The pockets were wet after earlier rain but the climbing was all very pleasant. I finished with the isolated Heather Buttress, which gives easy slabby climbing to an intimidating finish up a steep little wall on big holds. I think it is my third time climbing here: famously simple, but a really lovely location with far reaching views over verdant hills and valleys. I could see the route of the fell race to the south, over Shining Tor and Pym's Chair, and that is where I headed after a short bouldering session at the quarry walls (doing most of the traverse and other problems).
Monday, May 16, 2016
Roaches climbing
Crag: Roaches (Upper Tier), Staffordshire
Routes: Central Route (VS 4b:sec), Right Route (VD:led), Technical Slab (HS 4a:sec), The Neb Finish (VS 4b:sec), Black Velvet (HVD 4a:led), The Rib (D:sol), Bachelor's Buttress (VS 4c:sec), Fern Crack (S 4b:led)
A bit of a contrast to our last visit to the area in early January, when the crags were enveloped in a cold mist and it rained throughout our mud-spattered long run along the main ridge line. Instead, this was one of my occasional climbing forays onto grit on one of its finest crags, a venue I've only twice visited in the past. This is a criminal oversight, as even the easiest routes are good, and I definitely prefer these Staffordshire crags to those further north. Still in shakedown mode, and grit always takes some getting used to, so we stuck to simple ground throughout. After days of sunshine, it was cold and cloudy when we reached the Upper Tier, a very chilly northerly blowing straight into the face. This made the delicate, balancey climbing on Central Route a tad harder than it might have been. Steve B led, and I enjoyed the crisp 4b moves on small holds up the slab. I then led Right Route very quickly on Vic's gear, with Ceri belaying. This is an old classic and gives nice juggy climbing up the slabby flake that marks the right end of the slab. Next came the superb combination of Technical Slab, with the Neb Finish. I last did the slab with Tim over a quarter of a century ago, but still remembered it. It gives immaculate but bold climbing, really lovely up to the top constricted groove. A steeper move round this, then a brilliant traverse out right for the Neb Finish. This was momentarily exciting as I followed on a single rope: there's no gear on the traverse but it is easy climbing on large grit pockets and diagonal ledges. Great exposed position. We were flowing now, after a creaky and cold start, and I led the excellent Black Velvet (a companion to the classic Black and Tans which I also did with Tim many moons ago). It is a fine route for the grade: 20 metres of quality climbing. Varied too: starting with an awkward groove (Hollybush crack) which is overcome by moving left steeply on good holds. A mild jamming crack leads to a ledge, then great climbing up the very well protected thin crack leads to the wider (easy) finishing groove in a great position. After a romp up The Rib, and lunch, Steve led Bachelor's Buttress as the sun finally emerged. Temperatures increased dramatically, and the rock shone orange. This is a short but bold route, easy to second. A simple slab leads to delicate moves rightwards and a distinct, reachy crux for a flat hold. All in balance, though, and easier climbing leads diagonally rightwards to the belay. It was sunny and warm now, building to a wonderful May evening, but we were running out of time so I led Fern Crack at the far left end of the crag with Vic belaying. This was very enjoyable, a fun and unusual route at the grade. A very steep start, with little for the feet, much harder than the rest of the climb, gains a big flake then a steep but easy crack up to a remarkable, perfect thread. Above a short wall, the climb eases to a big ledge then traverse left to gain a hidden finishing groove.
Routes: Central Route (VS 4b:sec), Right Route (VD:led), Technical Slab (HS 4a:sec), The Neb Finish (VS 4b:sec), Black Velvet (HVD 4a:led), The Rib (D:sol), Bachelor's Buttress (VS 4c:sec), Fern Crack (S 4b:led)
A bit of a contrast to our last visit to the area in early January, when the crags were enveloped in a cold mist and it rained throughout our mud-spattered long run along the main ridge line. Instead, this was one of my occasional climbing forays onto grit on one of its finest crags, a venue I've only twice visited in the past. This is a criminal oversight, as even the easiest routes are good, and I definitely prefer these Staffordshire crags to those further north. Still in shakedown mode, and grit always takes some getting used to, so we stuck to simple ground throughout. After days of sunshine, it was cold and cloudy when we reached the Upper Tier, a very chilly northerly blowing straight into the face. This made the delicate, balancey climbing on Central Route a tad harder than it might have been. Steve B led, and I enjoyed the crisp 4b moves on small holds up the slab. I then led Right Route very quickly on Vic's gear, with Ceri belaying. This is an old classic and gives nice juggy climbing up the slabby flake that marks the right end of the slab. Next came the superb combination of Technical Slab, with the Neb Finish. I last did the slab with Tim over a quarter of a century ago, but still remembered it. It gives immaculate but bold climbing, really lovely up to the top constricted groove. A steeper move round this, then a brilliant traverse out right for the Neb Finish. This was momentarily exciting as I followed on a single rope: there's no gear on the traverse but it is easy climbing on large grit pockets and diagonal ledges. Great exposed position. We were flowing now, after a creaky and cold start, and I led the excellent Black Velvet (a companion to the classic Black and Tans which I also did with Tim many moons ago). It is a fine route for the grade: 20 metres of quality climbing. Varied too: starting with an awkward groove (Hollybush crack) which is overcome by moving left steeply on good holds. A mild jamming crack leads to a ledge, then great climbing up the very well protected thin crack leads to the wider (easy) finishing groove in a great position. After a romp up The Rib, and lunch, Steve led Bachelor's Buttress as the sun finally emerged. Temperatures increased dramatically, and the rock shone orange. This is a short but bold route, easy to second. A simple slab leads to delicate moves rightwards and a distinct, reachy crux for a flat hold. All in balance, though, and easier climbing leads diagonally rightwards to the belay. It was sunny and warm now, building to a wonderful May evening, but we were running out of time so I led Fern Crack at the far left end of the crag with Vic belaying. This was very enjoyable, a fun and unusual route at the grade. A very steep start, with little for the feet, much harder than the rest of the climb, gains a big flake then a steep but easy crack up to a remarkable, perfect thread. Above a short wall, the climb eases to a big ledge then traverse left to gain a hidden finishing groove.
Sunday, May 15, 2016
Chester half marathon
Race: Chester half marathon
Time/Position: 1.20.35 (45th from 7000 [4th V45])
I was due a bad race, and this was it. Shame it had to happen on a local event, but never mind! I did the old Chester half at least six times in the early 2000s, but have avoided it since it became commercialised. However, I decided I should give the new course and event a chance this year and was (I assumed) well trained for the distance, with the right combination of speed and endurance. It was baffling, therefore, to find the pace unsustainable when trying to get close to my PB of 1.17. No idea what the issue was: too much racing (last Sunday's tough half marathon, for example) or perhaps it was a bad night's sleep, or perhaps the hayfever that I suffer mildly from at this time of year (often notice a dip in form in May). No particularly unusual circumstances though, and it was my 42nd half marathon. Whatever it was, after initially enjoying the route along Bridge Street and the City Centre, I began to struggle a bit. I hooked onto a group at a similar pace, but just after the turn for home at Two Mills, I started to struggle properly. By mile 9 at Saughall I was really blowing and only revived after taking my one emergency gel. I had lost a lot of time and multiple places by now though, and even had to walk for a bit. At least 15 runners went past me on the return leg, and I lost more time on the short hill from the canal to the finish in front of the Town Hall. A nice event, which obviously takes in far more of the city than the old course, although it is three or four times more expensive! You get a sense of occasion, though, with big crowds especially at the finish. Like a mini-London, so met the family and had an ice cream to wind down.
Time/Position: 1.20.35 (45th from 7000 [4th V45])
I was due a bad race, and this was it. Shame it had to happen on a local event, but never mind! I did the old Chester half at least six times in the early 2000s, but have avoided it since it became commercialised. However, I decided I should give the new course and event a chance this year and was (I assumed) well trained for the distance, with the right combination of speed and endurance. It was baffling, therefore, to find the pace unsustainable when trying to get close to my PB of 1.17. No idea what the issue was: too much racing (last Sunday's tough half marathon, for example) or perhaps it was a bad night's sleep, or perhaps the hayfever that I suffer mildly from at this time of year (often notice a dip in form in May). No particularly unusual circumstances though, and it was my 42nd half marathon. Whatever it was, after initially enjoying the route along Bridge Street and the City Centre, I began to struggle a bit. I hooked onto a group at a similar pace, but just after the turn for home at Two Mills, I started to struggle properly. By mile 9 at Saughall I was really blowing and only revived after taking my one emergency gel. I had lost a lot of time and multiple places by now though, and even had to walk for a bit. At least 15 runners went past me on the return leg, and I lost more time on the short hill from the canal to the finish in front of the Town Hall. A nice event, which obviously takes in far more of the city than the old course, although it is three or four times more expensive! You get a sense of occasion, though, with big crowds especially at the finish. Like a mini-London, so met the family and had an ice cream to wind down.
Sunday, May 08, 2016
Two Lakes half marathon
Race: Two Lakes trail half marathon (Brenig-Alwen, Hiraethog)
Time/Position: 1.29.48 (2nd from 81 [1st Vet])
I remember doing the double loop of these lakes many years ago with Neil Parry, in an attempt to make our marathon training "more interesting". We remarked that it would make a nice race, although the full loop of both lakes is not far off 20 miles. Joe Cooper had worked out a different route which incorporates the scenic 'short cut' bridleway that links the two lakes and keeps the route to the half marathon distance (albeit with 1250ft of climbing). This also has the effect of making the race very different to the long-established Brenig race and the more recent Alwen race, both of which I've done several times. We started at the far end of the dam wall on the shores of Llyn Brenig, and headed along the fast tracks leading north. A group of three of us broke away almost immediately. Winner Steve Skates was clearly the strongest runner present, and pulled out a two minute gap by half way. So it was essentially a race for second between a runner from Trismart and myself. It was windless at the far end of Brenig for the muddy ground north of the lake: uncomfortably warm at this point. I moved into second place after the narrow paths, and we ran together along the gentle climb away from Brenig to gain the bridleway. The next section was superb - I was feeling good, the whole of Snowdonia was visible in front, and the going was wonderful along the bridleway. It was muddy after a morning downpour, but this just made it better. I felt like I'd pulled out a decent gap by the time we got to Alwen at the bridge. This is my favourite part of the normal Alwen race, wild and remote feeling in the heart of Hiraethog, particularly so given the big gaps that were opening out in the race. The crux of the route comes next: a steep climb up towards a ridge. I kept a steady plod going, before the excellent twisting tracks along the shores of the Alwen, nice and cool in the woods. After some water and a gel came the sting in the tail: the Alwen is considerably lower than the Brenig and a sharp climb back up the access road followed. I glanced behind, expecting to see nobody, planning for a relaxing run-in. But instead I saw the Trismart runner making his way up the hill. So the long climb back through the conifers towards the highpoint above Brenig turned into a considerably more tiring climax than I had anticipated! Great views down to Brenig from the top, then a welcome final descent across the main road and down to the far end of the dam wall.
Time/Position: 1.29.48 (2nd from 81 [1st Vet])
I remember doing the double loop of these lakes many years ago with Neil Parry, in an attempt to make our marathon training "more interesting". We remarked that it would make a nice race, although the full loop of both lakes is not far off 20 miles. Joe Cooper had worked out a different route which incorporates the scenic 'short cut' bridleway that links the two lakes and keeps the route to the half marathon distance (albeit with 1250ft of climbing). This also has the effect of making the race very different to the long-established Brenig race and the more recent Alwen race, both of which I've done several times. We started at the far end of the dam wall on the shores of Llyn Brenig, and headed along the fast tracks leading north. A group of three of us broke away almost immediately. Winner Steve Skates was clearly the strongest runner present, and pulled out a two minute gap by half way. So it was essentially a race for second between a runner from Trismart and myself. It was windless at the far end of Brenig for the muddy ground north of the lake: uncomfortably warm at this point. I moved into second place after the narrow paths, and we ran together along the gentle climb away from Brenig to gain the bridleway. The next section was superb - I was feeling good, the whole of Snowdonia was visible in front, and the going was wonderful along the bridleway. It was muddy after a morning downpour, but this just made it better. I felt like I'd pulled out a decent gap by the time we got to Alwen at the bridge. This is my favourite part of the normal Alwen race, wild and remote feeling in the heart of Hiraethog, particularly so given the big gaps that were opening out in the race. The crux of the route comes next: a steep climb up towards a ridge. I kept a steady plod going, before the excellent twisting tracks along the shores of the Alwen, nice and cool in the woods. After some water and a gel came the sting in the tail: the Alwen is considerably lower than the Brenig and a sharp climb back up the access road followed. I glanced behind, expecting to see nobody, planning for a relaxing run-in. But instead I saw the Trismart runner making his way up the hill. So the long climb back through the conifers towards the highpoint above Brenig turned into a considerably more tiring climax than I had anticipated! Great views down to Brenig from the top, then a welcome final descent across the main road and down to the far end of the dam wall.
Wednesday, May 04, 2016
Dinas Bran fell race
Race: Dinas Bran fell race (4.3m/1150ft/AS)
Time/Position: 33.33 (5th from 80 [1st V45])
A much delayed return to racing in the hills. As such, I wasn't sure how I would go given my usual winter focus on road running. But this is such an intense and explosive half hour outing that it's more a matter of just gauging the effort like a short border league race. I've done the route five or six times, indeed it was the first fell race I ever entered in 2002 or 2003. After our short climbing session, Vic and I sat down with a strong coffee at the cafe near the bridge in Llangollen, then jogged up to the start of the race. My tactic was just to push on the road sections then see if I could hang on for the hills. The first section of steep tarmac was pretty tough for me, given the lack of recent hill work and the rock climbing we had just done! But the curving path towards the back of Dinas Bran went well, and I started to pick up a few places. I always walk sections of the steep climb up to the top, and actually find it's the only place for a slight rest! I descended reasonably well, moving up to fifth place, and tried to push on a bit for the second circuit and climb. I was just holding on by the time we reached the top again, but again the descent went OK although I couldn't move up the field on the tarmac. Got the first V40 prize later on, although only by default. Beautiful evening which cooled quickly as the sun set.
Time/Position: 33.33 (5th from 80 [1st V45])
A much delayed return to racing in the hills. As such, I wasn't sure how I would go given my usual winter focus on road running. But this is such an intense and explosive half hour outing that it's more a matter of just gauging the effort like a short border league race. I've done the route five or six times, indeed it was the first fell race I ever entered in 2002 or 2003. After our short climbing session, Vic and I sat down with a strong coffee at the cafe near the bridge in Llangollen, then jogged up to the start of the race. My tactic was just to push on the road sections then see if I could hang on for the hills. The first section of steep tarmac was pretty tough for me, given the lack of recent hill work and the rock climbing we had just done! But the curving path towards the back of Dinas Bran went well, and I started to pick up a few places. I always walk sections of the steep climb up to the top, and actually find it's the only place for a slight rest! I descended reasonably well, moving up to fifth place, and tried to push on a bit for the second circuit and climb. I was just holding on by the time we reached the top again, but again the descent went OK although I couldn't move up the field on the tarmac. Got the first V40 prize later on, although only by default. Beautiful evening which cooled quickly as the sun set.
Eglwyseg climbing
Crag: Twilight Gully Walls, Eglwyseg
Routes: Pentredwr Crack (S 4a:led), Happy Valley (VS 4b:sec), Agay (S 4a:led), Misty Dawn (S 4a:sec), Continental Chocs (VS 4b:led), Volenti (S 4a:sec)
At last, beautiful May weather and the opportunity to do a spot of 'multi-eventing' with a few climbs acting as a warm-up for the evening fell race at Dinas Bran. I hadn't climbed at the Twilight area for years: it is the longest walk-in locally, so probably not the ideal choice before an evening race. But the approach takes in one of the finest sections of the Offa's Dyke path in stunning clarity of light, and the distance means that the crag has an even more tranquil feel than the rest of the valley, with no road beneath. The routes are short and undistinguished, but all very pleasant. I have climbed on the left-hand section a couple of times before, but I had no memory of climbing on the Gully Walls further right. I kicked off with a lead of the very obvious (but slightly hidden) crack immediately right of the large ash tree. I initially thought this was the line of Misty Dawn, but actually it isn't in the guidebook. It has almost certainly been climbed before, but is another useful easy addition to the crag - somewhere between VD and S. It goes up to the tree, then takes the nice clean crack in the corner, pleasant, well-protected and juggy. Pentredwr Crack seems an appropriate name. Vic then led Happy Valley, a mild VS up good solid grey limestone further right, one of the better VS's in the valley. A tricky start leads to nice climbing traversing diagonally rightwards on good holds. I then led Agay, largely because of the name (Frejus and Antibes are its companion routes, all my favourite holiday destinations). This takes the hidden wall behind a large detached tower: gentle climbing to a sapling. Mick joined us as I belayed. Vic led Misty Dawn, a better Severe and the line I had initially tried to follow. This goes to an undercut then an awkward move into a steepish crack taken on good holds. I upped the grade a bit with the obvious crackline taken by Continental Chocs. This is fairly easy to a bridging move which enables a chockstone to be threaded. Above, a distinct crux with a steep move above the chockstone - I had a bit of a wobble when I pulled up on gravel, banging my shins as my foot slipped. Easier above, and we finished with the pleasant slanting groove taken by Volenti: worth a star, one of the better easy climbs in the valley. The weather remained perfect throughout: quite warm as the sun moved round to light the face. A slow amble back to the car, trying to save energy for the race.
At last, beautiful May weather and the opportunity to do a spot of 'multi-eventing' with a few climbs acting as a warm-up for the evening fell race at Dinas Bran. I hadn't climbed at the Twilight area for years: it is the longest walk-in locally, so probably not the ideal choice before an evening race. But the approach takes in one of the finest sections of the Offa's Dyke path in stunning clarity of light, and the distance means that the crag has an even more tranquil feel than the rest of the valley, with no road beneath. The routes are short and undistinguished, but all very pleasant. I have climbed on the left-hand section a couple of times before, but I had no memory of climbing on the Gully Walls further right. I kicked off with a lead of the very obvious (but slightly hidden) crack immediately right of the large ash tree. I initially thought this was the line of Misty Dawn, but actually it isn't in the guidebook. It has almost certainly been climbed before, but is another useful easy addition to the crag - somewhere between VD and S. It goes up to the tree, then takes the nice clean crack in the corner, pleasant, well-protected and juggy. Pentredwr Crack seems an appropriate name. Vic then led Happy Valley, a mild VS up good solid grey limestone further right, one of the better VS's in the valley. A tricky start leads to nice climbing traversing diagonally rightwards on good holds. I then led Agay, largely because of the name (Frejus and Antibes are its companion routes, all my favourite holiday destinations). This takes the hidden wall behind a large detached tower: gentle climbing to a sapling. Mick joined us as I belayed. Vic led Misty Dawn, a better Severe and the line I had initially tried to follow. This goes to an undercut then an awkward move into a steepish crack taken on good holds. I upped the grade a bit with the obvious crackline taken by Continental Chocs. This is fairly easy to a bridging move which enables a chockstone to be threaded. Above, a distinct crux with a steep move above the chockstone - I had a bit of a wobble when I pulled up on gravel, banging my shins as my foot slipped. Easier above, and we finished with the pleasant slanting groove taken by Volenti: worth a star, one of the better easy climbs in the valley. The weather remained perfect throughout: quite warm as the sun moved round to light the face. A slow amble back to the car, trying to save energy for the race.
Monday, May 02, 2016
Flint Castle-Moel Famau-Cadole run
Running from the shores of the Dee Estuary to the top of Moel Famau sounded like my cup of tea, so I jumped at the chance to join a large group doing just that on Bank Holiday Monday morning. A sort of Trans-Flintshire run, it worked really well despite the rain and wind as a poor April gave way to a cold May. We started inside Flint Castle itself, then ran through the town in the rain, not the most uplifting of starts. From here, a small lane led to the first off-road section through fields, and the rest of the route was largely on small paths using the local knowledge of John Morris. The shallow valley of the Afon Conwy leads to a bridge over the A55 then steeper paths over Rhosesmor which lead eventually to the Halkyn road and very muddy fields down to Rhydymwyn. The route then essentially follows the River Alyn and the leat path before breaking off on a slight detour towards the pump house below Cilcain. I had to get back for lunch, so broke away to run alone up the Cilcain race route up Moel Famau. I pushed the pace a bit to the summit, with mist clearing. Then a long and rather tiring descent to Cadole, making the route 15-16 miles, possibly still feeling the marathon in my legs. A great route, really enjoyable.
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