Roaches climbing

Crag: Roaches (Upper Tier), Staffordshire
Routes: Central Route (VS 4b:sec), Right Route (VD:led), Technical Slab (HS 4a:sec), The Neb Finish (VS 4b:sec), Black Velvet (HVD 4a:led), The Rib (D:sol), Bachelor's Buttress (VS 4c:sec), Fern Crack (S 4b:led)
A bit of a contrast to our last visit to the area in early January, when the crags were enveloped in a cold mist and it rained throughout our mud-spattered long run along the main ridge line. Instead, this was one of my occasional climbing forays onto grit on one of its finest crags, a venue I've only twice visited in the past. This is a criminal oversight, as even the easiest routes are good, and I definitely prefer these Staffordshire crags to those further north. Still in shakedown mode, and grit always takes some getting used to, so we stuck to simple ground throughout. After days of sunshine, it was cold and cloudy when we reached the Upper Tier, a very chilly northerly blowing straight into the face. This made the delicate, balancey climbing on Central Route a tad harder than it might have been. Steve B led, and I enjoyed the crisp 4b moves on small holds up the slab. I then led Right Route very quickly on Vic's gear, with Ceri belaying. This is an old classic and gives nice juggy climbing up the slabby flake that marks the right end of the slab. Next came the superb combination of Technical Slab, with the Neb Finish. I last did the slab with Tim over a quarter of a century ago, but still remembered it. It gives immaculate but bold climbing, really lovely up to the top constricted groove. A steeper move round this, then a brilliant traverse out right for the Neb Finish. This was momentarily exciting as I followed on a single rope: there's no gear on the traverse but it is easy climbing on large grit pockets and diagonal ledges. Great exposed position. We were flowing now, after a creaky and cold start, and I led the excellent Black Velvet (a companion to the classic Black and Tans which I also did with Tim many moons ago). It is a fine route for the grade: 20 metres of quality climbing. Varied too: starting with an awkward groove (Hollybush crack) which is overcome by moving left steeply on good holds. A mild jamming crack leads to a ledge, then great climbing up the very well protected thin crack leads to the wider (easy) finishing groove in a great position. After a romp up The Rib, and lunch, Steve led Bachelor's Buttress as the sun finally emerged. Temperatures increased dramatically, and the rock shone orange. This is a short but bold route, easy to second. A simple slab leads to delicate moves rightwards and a distinct, reachy crux for a flat hold. All in balance, though, and easier climbing leads diagonally rightwards to the belay. It was sunny and warm now, building to a wonderful May evening, but we were running out of time so I led Fern Crack at the far left end of the crag with Vic belaying. This was very enjoyable, a fun and unusual route at the grade. A very steep start, with little for the feet, much harder than the rest of the climb, gains a big flake then a steep but easy crack up to a remarkable, perfect thread. Above a short wall, the climb eases to a big ledge then traverse left to gain a hidden finishing groove.