Routes: Pentredwr Crack (S 4a:led), Happy Valley (VS 4b:sec), Agay (S 4a:led), Misty Dawn (S 4a:sec), Continental Chocs (VS 4b:led), Volenti (S 4a:sec)
At last, beautiful May weather and the opportunity to do a spot of 'multi-eventing' with a few climbs acting as a warm-up for the evening fell race at Dinas Bran. I hadn't climbed at the Twilight area for years: it is the longest walk-in locally, so probably not the ideal choice before an evening race. But the approach takes in one of the finest sections of the Offa's Dyke path in stunning clarity of light, and the distance means that the crag has an even more tranquil feel than the rest of the valley, with no road beneath. The routes are short and undistinguished, but all very pleasant. I have climbed on the left-hand section a couple of times before, but I had no memory of climbing on the Gully Walls further right. I kicked off with a lead of the very obvious (but slightly hidden) crack immediately right of the large ash tree. I initially thought this was the line of Misty Dawn, but actually it isn't in the guidebook. It has almost certainly been climbed before, but is another useful easy addition to the crag - somewhere between VD and S. It goes up to the tree, then takes the nice clean crack in the corner, pleasant, well-protected and juggy. Pentredwr Crack seems an appropriate name. Vic then led Happy Valley, a mild VS up good solid grey limestone further right, one of the better VS's in the valley. A tricky start leads to nice climbing traversing diagonally rightwards on good holds. I then led Agay, largely because of the name (Frejus and Antibes are its companion routes, all my favourite holiday destinations). This takes the hidden wall behind a large detached tower: gentle climbing to a sapling. Mick joined us as I belayed. Vic led Misty Dawn, a better Severe and the line I had initially tried to follow. This goes to an undercut then an awkward move into a steepish crack taken on good holds. I upped the grade a bit with the obvious crackline taken by Continental Chocs. This is fairly easy to a bridging move which enables a chockstone to be threaded. Above, a distinct crux with a steep move above the chockstone - I had a bit of a wobble when I pulled up on gravel, banging my shins as my foot slipped. Easier above, and we finished with the pleasant slanting groove taken by Volenti: worth a star, one of the better easy climbs in the valley. The weather remained perfect throughout: quite warm as the sun moved round to light the face. A slow amble back to the car, trying to save energy for the race.
At last, beautiful May weather and the opportunity to do a spot of 'multi-eventing' with a few climbs acting as a warm-up for the evening fell race at Dinas Bran. I hadn't climbed at the Twilight area for years: it is the longest walk-in locally, so probably not the ideal choice before an evening race. But the approach takes in one of the finest sections of the Offa's Dyke path in stunning clarity of light, and the distance means that the crag has an even more tranquil feel than the rest of the valley, with no road beneath. The routes are short and undistinguished, but all very pleasant. I have climbed on the left-hand section a couple of times before, but I had no memory of climbing on the Gully Walls further right. I kicked off with a lead of the very obvious (but slightly hidden) crack immediately right of the large ash tree. I initially thought this was the line of Misty Dawn, but actually it isn't in the guidebook. It has almost certainly been climbed before, but is another useful easy addition to the crag - somewhere between VD and S. It goes up to the tree, then takes the nice clean crack in the corner, pleasant, well-protected and juggy. Pentredwr Crack seems an appropriate name. Vic then led Happy Valley, a mild VS up good solid grey limestone further right, one of the better VS's in the valley. A tricky start leads to nice climbing traversing diagonally rightwards on good holds. I then led Agay, largely because of the name (Frejus and Antibes are its companion routes, all my favourite holiday destinations). This takes the hidden wall behind a large detached tower: gentle climbing to a sapling. Mick joined us as I belayed. Vic led Misty Dawn, a better Severe and the line I had initially tried to follow. This goes to an undercut then an awkward move into a steepish crack taken on good holds. I upped the grade a bit with the obvious crackline taken by Continental Chocs. This is fairly easy to a bridging move which enables a chockstone to be threaded. Above, a distinct crux with a steep move above the chockstone - I had a bit of a wobble when I pulled up on gravel, banging my shins as my foot slipped. Easier above, and we finished with the pleasant slanting groove taken by Volenti: worth a star, one of the better easy climbs in the valley. The weather remained perfect throughout: quite warm as the sun moved round to light the face. A slow amble back to the car, trying to save energy for the race.
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