Friday, June 03, 2016

Beinn na Seilg run and climbing

Peak/Crag: Beinn na Seilg, Ardnamurchan
Routes: Gabbro Slab (D:sol), Faradh Dubh (VD:sol/sh), Identity Crisis (VS 4c:sh), South-West Buttress (M:sol), Trident (VD/HS 4c:sh)
This was the hardest crag of all to find, given the paucity of information I had (just a scrawled note that it lay on the 'western slopes'). As the local Kilchoan crag, however, I was determined to find it and headed out in the late afternoon after sailing back from a lovely day in Tobermory. The weather remained perfect: warm, crystal clear, light easterly winds. I ran up to the Lochan Gleann Locha, as I had done on Tuesday, and scoured the western slopes beyond this. A mistake, as I was later to find out. There are numerous remote crags low down on the hill facing west, but none was correct. After some exhausting running up and down, I decided to go to the summit (which I wanted to do anyway). On emerging at the cairn, I immediately spied the crag, a really impressive 50m sweep of gabbro just below the 'secondary' summit that was obvious from our cottage. First of all, though, I enjoyed the view from the top. Indeed, as the sun began to drop I would honestly rate it perhaps the best I have ever experienced in Scotland (and that is up against some pretty stiff competition!). Directly above the western fringe of Ardnamurchan: wonderful views of the Isles, Mull and Ring Dyke in a beautiful soft light as the sun began to drop over the Atlantic. Memorable. I scampered down to the crag, which currently has no more than 20 routes on it. There is immense scope for development: at least 100 routes seemed possible if the shorter flanks are also developed. The main Hebrides Wall is a lovely sweep of gabbro slabs, at the upper limit of shunting feasibility. Indeed, the rope initially failed to reach the bottom so I soloed up a diff before following the pleasant line of what I took to be Faradh Dubh up the central slab. Identity Crisis was a more obvious harder line, taking a steep crack towards the left of the crag. Some tricky moves initially up a slanting groove, then easier above. All of these were 40m pitches. Trident was slightly longer, if anything. It took the obvious three flake 'trident' in the centre of the crag then stepped right. I think the route then goes even further right, but because of the line of the rope I had to go directly up. This gave two or three hardish moves on unhelpful side pulls: more like VS 4c temporarily. Above, I rejoined the original line. During one of the descents, I nipped up the scramble of the South West Buttress. In glorious sunshine, with the sun dropping over the sea below, not a person, car or house (one, maybe!) visible throughout the entire landscape, this was absolutely glorious. When I'd finished this brief session, I spent a few minutes just enjoying the stunning panorama whilst sitting near the cairn: total peace and solitude. Ran back down to Kilchoan in time to prepare our final evening meal.

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