Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Carreg Wastad climbing

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis Pass
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4a:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:led p.2), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a:sec)
All routes I have done before, but a valuable and enjoyable session none the less. A bit of light drizzle as we sat with a coffee in Nant Peris, but prospects looked quite good as Vic led the first pitch of Skylon. I led this a few years ago, finding it easy. Today, I was initially puzzled by the crux, probably an indication that I haven't done much recently. It goes easily to the small overhang, which I wrongly probed to the right. Going left gives a distinct, but short, crux: much harder than the rest of the route. A few shelves lead to the belay, after which I led the slabby top pitch on sloping holds. It was then time for the classic Crackstone Rib, probably the best Severe in Wales, for the third time (spread over a quarter of a century). Vic led the traverse pitch which leads to the glorious juggy rib, beautifully positioned above the valley. I then led the top pitch, up the chimney to a large flake, then the very brief technical hand traverse - probably the only tricky move on the route - to another flake and the finish. We just had time to nip up the strenuous Ribstone Crack in one giant pitch: another climb I have done before and one that demands a certain amount of technique to climb comfortably. Top of the grade, steep and awkward with two distinct cruxes.

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