Thursday, June 02, 2016

Achnaha climbing

Crag: Button Slab (Achnaha)
Routes: Mickey (S:sol), Pash (S 4b:sol), Ludo (VD:sol), Felix (VD:sol)
Crag: Achnaha Buttress
Routes: Soul Searching (VS 4c:sh)
Crag: Black Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Sanna Seaming (HS 4b:sol)
Crag: Graffiti Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Triple Cracks (VD:sol), Mini Dyke (VD:sol)
Without a guidebook or large scale map it was proving difficult to locate these Ardnamurchan crags. Most were a fair walk from the road, all in stunning remote locations on the famous volcanic 'ring dyke' of small peaks that characterises this unique geological landscape. I knew there was an 'Achnaha Buttress' and spied a crag I thought it might be on another pre-breakfast outing. Still cold and blowy, with a little more cloud initially (not much though!). I trekked across a wild landscape, crossing the Allt Sanna river, then over an awkward series of subsidiary gabbro ridges - riddled with smaller crags - until emerging at a larger buttress. This was the place, but first I jogged up to the nearby Button Slab: a delightful slab of rough gabbro with four easy routes. They were all gentle: I started with the line up the middle, which went up the slab to a steepening taken on huge holds. I also did a few lines up two obvious cracks further left on this crag. Shunting on the main crag was tricky, with few belays on top, but I did manage to sample Soul Searching at a mild VS 4c, which goes up a steep flake to a pinnacle before some pleasant wall climbing. On the way back to the car, I stopped off at the immaculate black 'dome' slab that doesn't (apparently) have any routes on it. It must have been climbed, however, as it has three or four very eye-catching lines that looked (from below) like they might go at E1 5a: all on absolutely immaculate rock with superb friction. I did the easier 'seam' to the left at around HS 4b. Finally, I did a few rather contrived and escapable routes on 'graffiti slab', the broken 40ft crag with feint scrawled graffiti nearest the road. Delightful slabby padding in the morning sunshine although, again, people have presumably played on this for years. My first route took the obvious triple crack system, broken by ledges, on the right: I then did the miniature seam, quite delicate, up the darker slab further left. Home for breakfast at 10.15am!

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