Esterel-Mont Vinaigre loop

Peaks: Mont Vinaigre
Area: Esterel, Provence
This was the second long run I'd done during our week in the Esterel. I've run up Mont Vinaigre from the caravan before (seven years ago, incredibly). It is not that far as the crow flies, although it looks distant from the swimming pool, but it is problematised by the lack of a simple approach. Tracks lead everywhere in the Esterel, and I have a reasonable knowledge of them, but there is no simple way of approaching Vinaigre from the south. On Wednesday, I had a mini-epic after taking the long contouring path above the Vallon Olivier attempting to join the GR51 but eventually running out of time. I then took several different paths on the western slopes of Malpey before dropping down to an untracked side valley. This was temporarily appalling, crashing through the maquis and boulders to eventually gain the dry stream bed at the valley bottom. Scratched and bruised, the stream bed was better but still blocked with fallen trees and boulders at various points: all a reminder of how wild the Esterel is in some corners. Eventually the side valley emerged in the main N-S (broadly) valley and I made good progress back to the site. Today, I made a more concerted effort to get the navigation right. It was another 6am start, beautiful high pink clouds well before the sunrise: wonderful ambience as ever, nobody around. I went straight for Carrefour Castelli, down to the bridge, then the steep climb to the derelict Maison Forestiere which is right in the centre of the range, perhaps the most remote spot of all. From here, a superb path contours the hillside then heads due north for Mont Vinaigre: superb running in the early morning. It emerges on the Route des Cols, forcing you onto a long detour west along the metalled road to finally pick up the GR51 which leads more steeply to the top. Surprisingly lengthy: 100 minutes or so from the caravan. Views were stupendous, the best I have ever had in scores of visits to Esterel summits. Cloud was gradually clearing from the valleys, lending superb foreground views with distant summits poking through. Wonderful, although bizarrely I had to share the summit with a four-piece female choir singing soft spiritual tunes as the sun rose. I fear I ruined their special moment, dripping with sweat and downing two cereal bars in quick succession. My plan was to continue along the GR51, but I felt too tired, so went back a similar way via a few short variations. Back in time for the bakery opening and the usual breakfast.