Pedraforca

Peaks: Pedraforca Cima Nord (2438m), Pedraforca Pollego Superior (2507m)
Routes: Verdet (uII)
Area: Cadi-Moixero, Catalonia
Symbol of the Catalan people, Pedraforca is a superb mountain, truly distinctive with its twin-pronged summit and notable isolation. Arriving in the Cadi-Moixero national park, deep in the Catalan interior, is a magical experience. The area is beautiful and remarkably peaceful, particularly after a day in Barcelona (after flying in late on Sunday). Our campsite, the Mirador del Pedraforca, paid homage to the peak: a stupendous view towards it from our chalet and the swimming pool (while cooling off in the pool with the kids I realised that its double summit did remind me of something else: Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the central Pyrenees, although I did that in 1993 so memory is fading!). The mountain was, in short, essential - so I left the chalet before dawn next day with a plan to run the classic circuit and get back in time for breakfast and a family tour of the area. Although it took a while to find the right road above Saldes, once I did I made rapid progress up to the Lluis Estephan refuge, then up good but steep paths which wind through the trees and skirt some big limestone walls until the open terrain below the Col de Verdet is reached. The weather was stunning: deep blue cloudless skies and perfect clarity of light. Views over the Cadi range and across to the Serra d'Ensija were fabulous. I overtook a trio of Catalan lads from Tarragona at the start of the scrambling. This is easy (no more than grade II) but very enjoyable, up a slabby and very broad couloir/gully to a steepening with a couple of fixed ropes. This gains a mini col below the north peak. From here, a short descent over the northern slopes of the peak (above Gosol) allows for more excellent scrambling up slabs and short chimneys (II) with good views of the more dramatic rock walls above Saldes. The actual summit (Pollego Superior) is surprisingly large, with spectacular views due to the clarity of light - Montserrat above Barcelona was clearly visible above Gallina Pellada on the horizon. Close at hand, the soft green ranges of the Bergueda contrasted with the towering limestone walls around Pedraforca. I walked along the narrow ridge towards the Caldera for a bit before dropping down easily to L'Enforcadura. This is the enormous deep col between the two peaks, and allows for a great traverse. You really wouldn't want to come up via this scree covered couloir, known as the Tartera del Pedraforca: it's bad enough in descent, with loose scree, arduous going with little grip left on my old trail shoes and numerous slips, cutting my hand in two places. Once the treeline is reached, the going is far easier, with good running contouring the slopes back to the refuge surprisingly quickly. I nibbled a bit of manchego and chorizo for an appropriate breakfast, then scurried back down to the car and main breakfast back at the campsite. Less than 2:30 for the full traverse.