Peaks: Cairn Gorm (1245m), Ben Macdui (1309m), Braeriach (1296m)
Area: Cairngorms, Scotland
Three of the UK's biggest peaks before 11am with the entire range to myself: a memorable outing. The Cairngorms 4000s is a fairly demanding loop with a frightful height loss into the Lairig Ghru, even when a running approach is taken. My time was as limited as ever but I started from the top car park of Coire Cas at 6am and ploughed directly up the side of the hideous funicular railway to save time and energy. Arguably the ugliest mountain in the UK, ruined by ski machinery and the like, Cairn Gorm does at least have excellent views over the range when you finally emerge at its unspoiled summit dome. Two snow buntings cheered the scene considerably, as did the big views across to distant Braeriach. It was well before 7am, and bitterly cold in a strong northerly wind. This gradually dissipated during the morning, however, and the cloudbase remained high with some milky sunshine at times. From Cairn Gorm, characteristic Cairngorm running through boulder fields led to a col before the subsidiary peak of Stob Coire an t-Sneachda (above the famous winter climbing corrie of the same name). I had a sandwich below Carn Lochain, having missed breakfast, before embarking on the wonderful running across the main Cairngorm plateau. This is as high up and as Arctic as Britain gets, and to be completely alone and moving quickly through this landscape is rather special. Surprisingly, I have only been to the Cairngorms once before - when working in Abernethy in November 1991 when, among a range of smaller outings, I had a salutary experience on Bynack More in a semi white-out, long before the days of accurate mountain forecasts, or indeed the internet. A steep learning curve which I remember well. The running was remarkably comfortable. Indeed, for a hill runner, the ascent of Ben Macdui from Coire Cas is ideal: much of the plateau is runnable on a good path. After lonely Lochan Buidhe, the plateau's lowpoint, the going becomes more bouldery - and the huge summit of Macdui is a notorious wilderness of rock with some of the harshest weather in the UK - but, generally speaking, it is good running terrain and I reached the top of Ben Macdui, Britain's second highest peak, in 1.47 from Coire Cas. From here, the deep gulf of the Lairig Ghru is bleakly obvious. You can't see the bottom, but you know you have to get there before starting the climb back out to the opposite ridge. I had to make some calculations at this point. I wanted to be back in our Laggan cottage for lunch, with several family walks scheduled for this afternoon. The solution was, therefore, to cut diagonally across to Braeriach by dropping down the Allt a Choire Mhor, an obvious stream valley that was pathless and wild but, judging by my map, negotiable. This was indeed the case, although it was predictably steep and completely trackless. It gave a wonderful and exhilerating descent cutting right through the heart of the most dramatic part of the range, with superb views across to Carn Toul and Braeriach. The valley narrowed and steepened at various points, demanding a few detours, but I soon gained the base of the Lairig Ghru, the first time I have ever visited what must be the most famous of all Scottish mountain passes (roadless ones anyway). I drank from the stream, slightly dehydrated, before beginning the monster ascent up Braeraich, a sprawling beast of a mountain which makes up in volume what it lacks in shapeliness. My initial target was a shallow cwm on the right, which I headed towards after crossing the narrow base of the Lairig. Unusually dry underfoot after this dry Spring, which eased progress although it remained steep until I gained the cwm, a wonderfully wild place with some old aircraft debris scattered around and lots of mountain hares. I moved up to the backwall, where I found (to my surprise) a small path zigzagging up from the Lairig Ghru. This helped a lot, and I soon gained the broad ridge curving round to the summit ridge of Braeraich which, again, I had to myself: I had still seen nobody all day, although it was still only around 10.30am. Views down An Gharbh Coire, the West Buttress, and across to the Angel's Peak, Cairn Toul and Ben Macdui were superb, although the sun still hadn't burnt the layer of high cloud away. After a quick snack, I girded my loins for the immense descent - probably the crux of the day, as there is no simple way back to Coire Cas from Braeraich, even though it is not that far away. That said, the run down Sron na Lairige was magnificent, and the sun came out half way down, as did the people - the first I'd seen all day. A long, rocky and runnable descent led to a constriction in the Lairig Ghru and a stream crossing to gain a sharp climb and the path through the tight gorge below Chalamain. This was tiring: it is a long way back from Braeraich, and I was dehydrating slightly. Once out of the gorge, I drank from the stream and had a bite to eat: the sunshine was now out and it was becoming a superb day with all cloud gone and magnificent views over dwarf pines and the Cairngorm landscape to the forests of Rothiemurchus and Meall a'Buachaille (another hill I had done in a white-out in 1991). The fun wasn't over, because the path goes to the bottom car park, not Coire Cas, and I opted for an exhausting and very unwise trudge through appalling trackless heather and untrodden valleys to return by way of an unfeasible directissima! Still, I was back before midday which seemed pretty good for such a demanding route. The day developed into a stunning cloudless afternoon, which we spent wisely and productively as a family: doing the longer loop around the Creag Meagaidh reserve, then the longer wall up to the higher Pattack Falls.
Wednesday, May 31, 2017
Tuesday, May 30, 2017
Kingussie climbing
Crag: Kingussie, Badenoch, Central Highlands
Routes: The Slab (D:sol), The Edge (VD:sol), The Groove (HS 4b:sh), Quartz Wall (VS 4c:sh), Little Crack (D:sol), Little Wall (D:sol), Capped Corner (S:sol/sh), Mango Rib (VD:sh)
The archetypal beginner's crag, and as such ideal for a brief solo pre-breakfast outing before the rain arrived. I jogged up from the top of the town, through some woods to the obvious clean and slabby main face. The rock is mica schist, rather polished but running to flat holds with the odd quartz pocket. The Slab gave a very obvious warm-up, a simple romp up the eponymous feature, while the Edge takes a nice line up the edge of the slab further left: steep and juggy to start. I also descended both these routes. I shunted the Groove, which is perhaps the strongest line on the crag with an awkward crux early on. Pleasant bridging higher up. Quartz Wall just about stays independent as an eliminate line between the groove and the edge. It gives nice delicate climbing. Further right, a small and very polished wall had obviously been used by groups for years: some easy polished lines like Little Crack and Little Wall. I finished off with Capped Corner, putting a shunt on for the short crux moves right over a bulge towards the top: and a dirtier climb up the rib. It started to rain as I descended, hungry, back to the cottage for breakfast.
Routes: The Slab (D:sol), The Edge (VD:sol), The Groove (HS 4b:sh), Quartz Wall (VS 4c:sh), Little Crack (D:sol), Little Wall (D:sol), Capped Corner (S:sol/sh), Mango Rib (VD:sh)
The archetypal beginner's crag, and as such ideal for a brief solo pre-breakfast outing before the rain arrived. I jogged up from the top of the town, through some woods to the obvious clean and slabby main face. The rock is mica schist, rather polished but running to flat holds with the odd quartz pocket. The Slab gave a very obvious warm-up, a simple romp up the eponymous feature, while the Edge takes a nice line up the edge of the slab further left: steep and juggy to start. I also descended both these routes. I shunted the Groove, which is perhaps the strongest line on the crag with an awkward crux early on. Pleasant bridging higher up. Quartz Wall just about stays independent as an eliminate line between the groove and the edge. It gives nice delicate climbing. Further right, a small and very polished wall had obviously been used by groups for years: some easy polished lines like Little Crack and Little Wall. I finished off with Capped Corner, putting a shunt on for the short crux moves right over a bulge towards the top: and a dirtier climb up the rib. It started to rain as I descended, hungry, back to the cottage for breakfast.
Monday, May 29, 2017
Creag Dubh
Peaks: Creag Dubh (756m)
Area: Badenoch, Central Highlands
My birthday, and therefore the only day of the year I can feasibly 'force' the offspring to join me in the hills. Creag Dubh is the real signature peak of this part of the Spey Valley, and as we were staying in Laggan it seemed essential and the obvious choice for a family outing on the morning of my birthday (a short route doesn't try their patience too much). It was supposedly the battle cry of the local McPherson clan, and is a sharp and rugged little mountain with a famous roadside crag above delightful Lochan Ulvie: the Scottish 'Tremadog' perhaps. We set off by skirting the crag, then up a very tenuous path through a large boulder field. Amazingly difficult route-finding for such an obvious peak, possibly because it fails to achieve Corbett status, although surely people are not that shallow. More likely, the steep and rough terrain puts people off, as a tiny path then heads up the edge of a plantation steeply before disappearing completely among dwarf birches. We continued up, as I picked a route through to gain steeper bracken and then, finally, the main ridge with a properly defined path. The children and Kate didn't complain too much, although the ridge then contained multiple false summits. Despite this, some very mild scrambling interspersed with very pleasant ridge walking made the top section ideal for our purposes today. Although it was cloudy, Creag Dubh benefits from its isolated position and has unusually varied views: wild over the Monadhliath range to the west, which really captured my attention, and tranquil and green over Speyside to the east. After descending, the weather cleared nicely for a picnic on the green shores of Loch Insh, looking out to the high Cairngorms.
Area: Badenoch, Central Highlands
My birthday, and therefore the only day of the year I can feasibly 'force' the offspring to join me in the hills. Creag Dubh is the real signature peak of this part of the Spey Valley, and as we were staying in Laggan it seemed essential and the obvious choice for a family outing on the morning of my birthday (a short route doesn't try their patience too much). It was supposedly the battle cry of the local McPherson clan, and is a sharp and rugged little mountain with a famous roadside crag above delightful Lochan Ulvie: the Scottish 'Tremadog' perhaps. We set off by skirting the crag, then up a very tenuous path through a large boulder field. Amazingly difficult route-finding for such an obvious peak, possibly because it fails to achieve Corbett status, although surely people are not that shallow. More likely, the steep and rough terrain puts people off, as a tiny path then heads up the edge of a plantation steeply before disappearing completely among dwarf birches. We continued up, as I picked a route through to gain steeper bracken and then, finally, the main ridge with a properly defined path. The children and Kate didn't complain too much, although the ridge then contained multiple false summits. Despite this, some very mild scrambling interspersed with very pleasant ridge walking made the top section ideal for our purposes today. Although it was cloudy, Creag Dubh benefits from its isolated position and has unusually varied views: wild over the Monadhliath range to the west, which really captured my attention, and tranquil and green over Speyside to the east. After descending, the weather cleared nicely for a picnic on the green shores of Loch Insh, looking out to the high Cairngorms.
Sunday, May 28, 2017
Creag Meagaidh traverse
Peaks: Meall an t'Snaim (969m), Sron Coire a'Chriochairean (991m), Stob Poite Coire Ardair (1053m), Creag Meagaidh (1130m), Puist Coire Ardair (1070m), Sron a'Choire (1001m)
Area: Creag Meagaidh, Central Highlands
The path into the spectacular Coire Ardair is so well-defined and runnable that I inadvertently missed the route up Carn Liath, the first peak on the large horseshoe encompassing this valley. It was so manicured and perfect, through wonderful native woodland in places, that I was enjoying myself and carried on for a couple of miles before finally having to strike directly up the steep hillside to the north-east. I emerged at Meall an t'Snaim, which is more or less at the same level of Carn Liath, just a continuation of the very broad ridge that then, happily, narrows: meaning I hadn't missed any of the good bits. Even better, the weather was improving by the minute. It had been a clagged-in morning with a touch of drizzle for our family walks in the valley but now, as forecast, it was improving dramatically. As usual, this was perforce a short outing, grabbed mid-afternoon at the start of our 7th consecutive Highland holiday, but prospects were superb as I crested the ridge and followed it across the better defined little summit of Chriochairean. Big views opening out to the north, rather disorientating initially as Creag Meagaidh occupies such a central position in the Highlands - and I'd never really visited the immediate area before. Still, the Mamores, Knoydart and Ben Nevis were all obvious. Great running along the edge of Coire Ardair goes via a couple of subsidiary summits to the Munro of Stob Poite Coire Ardair. A steep descent leads down to the pronounced col of The Window, visible and obvious from the Spean Bridge road way below. A wild prospect further west over Lochan Uaine and steep running over a few large snow patches eventually leads to the detached summit of Creag Meagaidh itself. The complex topography here - with five ridges radiating out from a plateau - would likely be a nightmare in mist, but there were no such problems today, just huge views and big skies in every direction as the sun made its presence felt. A superb and exhilarating descent, initially over feathery, almost carpeted ground on the plateau - extraordinarily comfortable underfoot - led over Puist Coire Ardair to loop round the opposite side of Coire Ardair. Keeping to the lip of the cwm gave the best views of the day, looking over the huge 'Posts' of Coire Ardair to the lake below. From Sron a'Choire, the final nose overlooking Loch Laggan, a very steep descent led down arduous tussocky heather to the valley bottom. This was tough: I could see the tourist trail below but never seemed to get any closer to it. Back comfortably in time to cook dinner: an excellent horseshoe round one of Scotland's finest massifs. A pleasant family walk round Pattack falls in warm evening sunshine followed.
Area: Creag Meagaidh, Central Highlands
The path into the spectacular Coire Ardair is so well-defined and runnable that I inadvertently missed the route up Carn Liath, the first peak on the large horseshoe encompassing this valley. It was so manicured and perfect, through wonderful native woodland in places, that I was enjoying myself and carried on for a couple of miles before finally having to strike directly up the steep hillside to the north-east. I emerged at Meall an t'Snaim, which is more or less at the same level of Carn Liath, just a continuation of the very broad ridge that then, happily, narrows: meaning I hadn't missed any of the good bits. Even better, the weather was improving by the minute. It had been a clagged-in morning with a touch of drizzle for our family walks in the valley but now, as forecast, it was improving dramatically. As usual, this was perforce a short outing, grabbed mid-afternoon at the start of our 7th consecutive Highland holiday, but prospects were superb as I crested the ridge and followed it across the better defined little summit of Chriochairean. Big views opening out to the north, rather disorientating initially as Creag Meagaidh occupies such a central position in the Highlands - and I'd never really visited the immediate area before. Still, the Mamores, Knoydart and Ben Nevis were all obvious. Great running along the edge of Coire Ardair goes via a couple of subsidiary summits to the Munro of Stob Poite Coire Ardair. A steep descent leads down to the pronounced col of The Window, visible and obvious from the Spean Bridge road way below. A wild prospect further west over Lochan Uaine and steep running over a few large snow patches eventually leads to the detached summit of Creag Meagaidh itself. The complex topography here - with five ridges radiating out from a plateau - would likely be a nightmare in mist, but there were no such problems today, just huge views and big skies in every direction as the sun made its presence felt. A superb and exhilarating descent, initially over feathery, almost carpeted ground on the plateau - extraordinarily comfortable underfoot - led over Puist Coire Ardair to loop round the opposite side of Coire Ardair. Keeping to the lip of the cwm gave the best views of the day, looking over the huge 'Posts' of Coire Ardair to the lake below. From Sron a'Choire, the final nose overlooking Loch Laggan, a very steep descent led down arduous tussocky heather to the valley bottom. This was tough: I could see the tourist trail below but never seemed to get any closer to it. Back comfortably in time to cook dinner: an excellent horseshoe round one of Scotland's finest massifs. A pleasant family walk round Pattack falls in warm evening sunshine followed.
Saturday, May 27, 2017
Schiehallion run
Peak: Schiehallion (1083m)
Area: Perthshire, Scotland
A famous mountain, conical and eye-catching, although I had never done it before as it is some way removed from our usual stamping ground further west. However, this time it was en route to our Laggan cottage and seemed ideally suited to a running approach. It was indeed, and I set off at lunchtime as the family went to get sandwiches in Tummel Bridge. The standard route must be a rather boring walk, gently up via a whaleback ridge on zigzags, lots of erosion and newly constructed sections. But it works perfectly as a run, and I got to the top in 49 minutes. Some rain was in the air after a hot week: humid and cloudy, but with just a little light mist playing around the summit. The first half is all very runnable, and quick progress remains possible as the ridge gets a bit more defined (and much rockier) towards the summit of bare rock. Pelted down to join the family after less than 100 minutes of running.
Area: Perthshire, Scotland
A famous mountain, conical and eye-catching, although I had never done it before as it is some way removed from our usual stamping ground further west. However, this time it was en route to our Laggan cottage and seemed ideally suited to a running approach. It was indeed, and I set off at lunchtime as the family went to get sandwiches in Tummel Bridge. The standard route must be a rather boring walk, gently up via a whaleback ridge on zigzags, lots of erosion and newly constructed sections. But it works perfectly as a run, and I got to the top in 49 minutes. Some rain was in the air after a hot week: humid and cloudy, but with just a little light mist playing around the summit. The first half is all very runnable, and quick progress remains possible as the ridge gets a bit more defined (and much rockier) towards the summit of bare rock. Pelted down to join the family after less than 100 minutes of running.
Wednesday, May 24, 2017
Berwyn run and bivouac
Peaks: Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn
Area: Berwyn, Eryri
A kit-testing trip, bivvying on the summit of Cadair Berwyn. As a younger man, I slept in the old orange polythene bivvy bags numerous times: condensation was the inevitable result and I still retain powerful memories of the associated discomfort. Over a quarter of a century on, technology has evolved a bit and I wanted to try out my new rather more sophisticated bag in as remote a location as was feasible in an after-work trip. Cadair Berwyn fitted that particular bill nicely, and it was a glorious early evening as I set off from Llandrillo with lightweight 'mountain marathon' style sac. Along the initially steep track to gain the excellent runnable track going past the stone circle of Moel Ty Uchaf. I left my sac at Bwlch Maen Gwynedd then ran up Cadair Bronwen for fabulous views over to the Clwydians and beyond. I then descended Nant Cwm Llawenog to get water. It is unusually dry everywhere across the region at present: very little running water across the entire Berwyn range. Advantages: dry feet, a real novelty. Disadvantages: not ideal on a summit bivouac, long detours for water required! I jogged to the summit of Cadair Berwyn, setting up the bivvy site just below the trig point in the lee of a light but persistent westerly. The evening past pleasantly. I jogged over for views of Llyn Lluncaws, had a nice meal of salmon, noodles and bulgar wheat and then, partly for training purposes, descended a long way (2k and 250m) down Cwm Tywyll for water. Views were extensive in all directions: across to the Rhinogydd and Irish Sea, up as far as Tal y Fan and Moel Hiraddug to the north, and down to the Wrekin, Caer Caradog and Corndon to the south. The sun set over central Eryri through thin ribbons of black cloud. Sadly, the new bag did not prevent the old condensation problem: I slept fitfully and woke in the small hours, rather damp and uncomfortable, reminding me of the polythene bag bivouacs of my youth. As it was a working day, I needed some more sleep than that so headed back to Llandrillo in the dark which turned into a perfect night-time navigation exercise! A couple of hours extra sleep in the back of the car, then a working day via some superb early morning bouldering at Trevor Rocks above Llangollen, followed by a run along the escarpment in wonderful conditions before 8am.
Area: Berwyn, Eryri
A kit-testing trip, bivvying on the summit of Cadair Berwyn. As a younger man, I slept in the old orange polythene bivvy bags numerous times: condensation was the inevitable result and I still retain powerful memories of the associated discomfort. Over a quarter of a century on, technology has evolved a bit and I wanted to try out my new rather more sophisticated bag in as remote a location as was feasible in an after-work trip. Cadair Berwyn fitted that particular bill nicely, and it was a glorious early evening as I set off from Llandrillo with lightweight 'mountain marathon' style sac. Along the initially steep track to gain the excellent runnable track going past the stone circle of Moel Ty Uchaf. I left my sac at Bwlch Maen Gwynedd then ran up Cadair Bronwen for fabulous views over to the Clwydians and beyond. I then descended Nant Cwm Llawenog to get water. It is unusually dry everywhere across the region at present: very little running water across the entire Berwyn range. Advantages: dry feet, a real novelty. Disadvantages: not ideal on a summit bivouac, long detours for water required! I jogged to the summit of Cadair Berwyn, setting up the bivvy site just below the trig point in the lee of a light but persistent westerly. The evening past pleasantly. I jogged over for views of Llyn Lluncaws, had a nice meal of salmon, noodles and bulgar wheat and then, partly for training purposes, descended a long way (2k and 250m) down Cwm Tywyll for water. Views were extensive in all directions: across to the Rhinogydd and Irish Sea, up as far as Tal y Fan and Moel Hiraddug to the north, and down to the Wrekin, Caer Caradog and Corndon to the south. The sun set over central Eryri through thin ribbons of black cloud. Sadly, the new bag did not prevent the old condensation problem: I slept fitfully and woke in the small hours, rather damp and uncomfortable, reminding me of the polythene bag bivouacs of my youth. As it was a working day, I needed some more sleep than that so headed back to Llandrillo in the dark which turned into a perfect night-time navigation exercise! A couple of hours extra sleep in the back of the car, then a working day via some superb early morning bouldering at Trevor Rocks above Llangollen, followed by a run along the escarpment in wonderful conditions before 8am.
Saturday, May 20, 2017
Ras y Gader
Race: Ras y Gader/Cader Idris fell race (10.5m/3000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.42.47 (24th from 270)
Back at the Cader race for the first time since 2009: a long gap. Too long, in fact, for me to remember the important racing line down the grassy rake from the summit rocks. I missed it, which was rather annoying, although once again I descended better than I climbed (which is not saying very much). The race always has a real sense of occasion starting and finishing in Dolgellau, that most distinctive and attractive of north Wales towns, and it celebrated its 25th anniversary this year (the 4th time I have done it). It is not an easy race to pace, as a long but steep road climb from the town makes the start pretty quick, before a long cross-country style path around the side of Llyn Gwernan. The next few fields are often very boggy, but were much drier today, and the mist was beginning to lift from the Cyfrwy arete and even Pen y Gadair itself after a wet morning. Finally, the car park and start of the normal ascent route is gained. This goes steeply up 'steps' for a good few hundred metres until it levels off to contour the lower hillside below hidden Llyn y Gadair. It steepens again at the zig zags, and I missed a couple of short cuts. Steve and I were together and equally matched, not for the first time this season! At the broad bwlch, the angle eases again and a runnable section leads up to steep scree before another runnable section (I cut the corner across awkward scree) leads to the final, much rockier climb. Mist was playing round the summit, quite atmospheric, and temperatures were a good 10c colder than in Dolgellau. I touched the cairn in 1.02 from Eldon Square (32nd to the top). The descent is notoriously tricky at first, down some rocky steps to the gentler section. I pelted down here, only realising after a couple of minutes that I was alone, and all the runners I had been with were instead hundreds of metres ahead on the grassy racing line! Very annoying. After this, I took all the direct short-cuts straight down the steepest line cutting out the zigzags. I like this terrain and took a few places. The contouring section back to the car park is good if you have the legs, and I felt OK. The key challenge in this race then becomes the small matter of adapting to the level XC section round the lake. Not easy after the flat-out descent, but a bit of endurance kicked in and I took five or six more places before the manic final dash down two miles of steep tarmac: around 39.50 from the summit to Eldon Square. An ideal family outing, we all enjoyed the day, and it was nice to do this classic race again after such a long gap.
Time/Position: 1.42.47 (24th from 270)
Back at the Cader race for the first time since 2009: a long gap. Too long, in fact, for me to remember the important racing line down the grassy rake from the summit rocks. I missed it, which was rather annoying, although once again I descended better than I climbed (which is not saying very much). The race always has a real sense of occasion starting and finishing in Dolgellau, that most distinctive and attractive of north Wales towns, and it celebrated its 25th anniversary this year (the 4th time I have done it). It is not an easy race to pace, as a long but steep road climb from the town makes the start pretty quick, before a long cross-country style path around the side of Llyn Gwernan. The next few fields are often very boggy, but were much drier today, and the mist was beginning to lift from the Cyfrwy arete and even Pen y Gadair itself after a wet morning. Finally, the car park and start of the normal ascent route is gained. This goes steeply up 'steps' for a good few hundred metres until it levels off to contour the lower hillside below hidden Llyn y Gadair. It steepens again at the zig zags, and I missed a couple of short cuts. Steve and I were together and equally matched, not for the first time this season! At the broad bwlch, the angle eases again and a runnable section leads up to steep scree before another runnable section (I cut the corner across awkward scree) leads to the final, much rockier climb. Mist was playing round the summit, quite atmospheric, and temperatures were a good 10c colder than in Dolgellau. I touched the cairn in 1.02 from Eldon Square (32nd to the top). The descent is notoriously tricky at first, down some rocky steps to the gentler section. I pelted down here, only realising after a couple of minutes that I was alone, and all the runners I had been with were instead hundreds of metres ahead on the grassy racing line! Very annoying. After this, I took all the direct short-cuts straight down the steepest line cutting out the zigzags. I like this terrain and took a few places. The contouring section back to the car park is good if you have the legs, and I felt OK. The key challenge in this race then becomes the small matter of adapting to the level XC section round the lake. Not easy after the flat-out descent, but a bit of endurance kicked in and I took five or six more places before the manic final dash down two miles of steep tarmac: around 39.50 from the summit to Eldon Square. An ideal family outing, we all enjoyed the day, and it was nice to do this classic race again after such a long gap.
Friday, May 19, 2017
Trench Wall climbing
Crag: Trench Wall, Penmaen Head
Routes: Thin on Top (f6a:led), Trench Warfare (f6a+:sec), Billy Liar (f6a+:led*), Billy Liar (f6a+:sec), Spanish Plume (f6a:led)
Possibly the least pleasant ambience of any Welsh crag: right next to the A55, above a large rubbish-filled ditch, facing due north with zero chance of any sunshine. However, the climbing is quite good: long pitches on smooth but fairly solid limestone. The eponymous trench is literally that - a big ditch which makes the routes much longer than they look from the road, 22m or so. I kicked off with Thin on Top, an f6a which breaks out of the obvious shallow groove taken by Trench Warfare to finish left up the off-vertical upper wall. This is a pleasing pitch, and it was good to get on some harder and more technical rock for a change. It is reasonably sustained but also has some good rests and was exactly what I needed. The smoothness of the limestone on this face is a tad disconcerting at first acquaintance, and the route steepens towards the top, although the holds remain pretty friendly throughout. The groove to the right was similar in standard we felt, despite the grade. Some questionable rock and a scruffy section towards the top but another decent climb. Billy Liar takes slabbier ground to the right, and looks fairly innocuous. This is an illusion as it gives quite technical moves, one sharp rockover in particular, up to a steep finish. This baffled me on first acquaintance, approaching it direct and from both sides, to no avail: ended up dogging the end of the route which was rather annoying. After clipping the lower off, we both tried it again. This time it went perfectly cleanly: a balancy move up the small groove at the top gained the obvious hold before a steep but fairly juggy finish. My lack of upper body stamina told for Spanish Plume, a scrappier and much shorter route at the far left of the crag, which goes up via a borehole to climb a wall on flat holds. It was time to call it a day, as I'd already used my calves too much in advance of tomorrow's Ras y Gader.
Routes: Thin on Top (f6a:led), Trench Warfare (f6a+:sec), Billy Liar (f6a+:led*), Billy Liar (f6a+:sec), Spanish Plume (f6a:led)
Possibly the least pleasant ambience of any Welsh crag: right next to the A55, above a large rubbish-filled ditch, facing due north with zero chance of any sunshine. However, the climbing is quite good: long pitches on smooth but fairly solid limestone. The eponymous trench is literally that - a big ditch which makes the routes much longer than they look from the road, 22m or so. I kicked off with Thin on Top, an f6a which breaks out of the obvious shallow groove taken by Trench Warfare to finish left up the off-vertical upper wall. This is a pleasing pitch, and it was good to get on some harder and more technical rock for a change. It is reasonably sustained but also has some good rests and was exactly what I needed. The smoothness of the limestone on this face is a tad disconcerting at first acquaintance, and the route steepens towards the top, although the holds remain pretty friendly throughout. The groove to the right was similar in standard we felt, despite the grade. Some questionable rock and a scruffy section towards the top but another decent climb. Billy Liar takes slabbier ground to the right, and looks fairly innocuous. This is an illusion as it gives quite technical moves, one sharp rockover in particular, up to a steep finish. This baffled me on first acquaintance, approaching it direct and from both sides, to no avail: ended up dogging the end of the route which was rather annoying. After clipping the lower off, we both tried it again. This time it went perfectly cleanly: a balancy move up the small groove at the top gained the obvious hold before a steep but fairly juggy finish. My lack of upper body stamina told for Spanish Plume, a scrappier and much shorter route at the far left of the crag, which goes up via a borehole to climb a wall on flat holds. It was time to call it a day, as I'd already used my calves too much in advance of tomorrow's Ras y Gader.
Saturday, May 13, 2017
Wepre Parkrun
"Race": Wepre Parkrun (5k)
Time/Position: 19.31 (3rd from 195)
This special occasion marked a year since the start of the Wepre Parkrun, and an appeal had been made for a big turnout from Buckley. I did it for the first time since the pre-Christmas event and noticed that Dave from Chester had taken the V45 record I set that day, so thought I should at least try to get it back. With some irony, I finished 14 seconds inside Dave's age group record but was beaten by none other than Dave himself! He finished 9 seconds ahead of me, so still has the age group record for the course. The young winner was well out in front, so it was good to have the competition and made for an unexpectedly intense speed session. It is supposedly one of the toughest Parkruns in the UK, with two sharp climbs on both laps and lots of twists and turns.
Time/Position: 19.31 (3rd from 195)
This special occasion marked a year since the start of the Wepre Parkrun, and an appeal had been made for a big turnout from Buckley. I did it for the first time since the pre-Christmas event and noticed that Dave from Chester had taken the V45 record I set that day, so thought I should at least try to get it back. With some irony, I finished 14 seconds inside Dave's age group record but was beaten by none other than Dave himself! He finished 9 seconds ahead of me, so still has the age group record for the course. The young winner was well out in front, so it was good to have the competition and made for an unexpectedly intense speed session. It is supposedly one of the toughest Parkruns in the UK, with two sharp climbs on both laps and lots of twists and turns.
Thursday, May 11, 2017
Dinas Mot climbing
Crag: Dinas Mot (Western Wing), Llanberis
Routes: Black Spring (HVS 4a,5a,5a,4a:led p.1+4), Slow Ledge Climb (VS 4b,4b:led p.2)
Like snatching an ice climb when the conditions come good, this felt like a rare prize. After three weeks of drought, this superb route combination seemed likely to be as dry as it will ever get. Conditions are exceptional at present and this was a memorable 600ft trip up the giant Western Wing of Dinas Mot: twice the height of the much more popular Nose. Despite the drought, the first pitch of Black Spring was still wet at the top, as was the start of the second (first proper) pitch. Vic led both 5a pitches, with the first an absorbing affair taking the initial 90ft black slab. After a short wet section, a thin crack runs to sharp holds and is straightforward until it steepens. A traverse left on superb pocketed rock leads to a steeper finish taken on more pockets via some excellent technical climbing. The belay is in a small cave/niche above the slab and below an overhang which means you are cut off from your partner, isolated and suspended in the tiny niche. The next pitch looks hard to start, with a sharp move over the lip. Even after three dry weeks, the two crucial pockets were wet, but the move is much easier than it looks, and a good use of the pockets with hands and a high step up with the feet gains another steep slab. This gives more superb technical climbing: indeed, the crux comes soon after with an initially puzzling move requiring precise footwork. The slab above continues excellent: little pockets and moves that are not obvious but always reasonable in execution. After 100ft of brilliant climbing, a few moves left gain an easier quartzy crack which leads up to the broken terrace. It is this unfortunate, disruptive feature that stops the routes being absolute three star classic. However, it all adds to the adventurous feel of the Western Wing and there isn't actually much heather bashing if you get the line right. I led up easier rock on pitch four, picking my way satisfyingly up through a series of steep but very juggy flakes and grooves to a huge flake belay. All completely dry, which I suspect is not usually the case. From here, Vic led up a crack to the obvious traverse line which turned out to be Slow Ledge, not the fifth pitch of Black Spring. Route finding is much less obvious above the terrace, but this wasn't a problem as I have wanted to do Slow Ledge for years and never got round to it. It gives a memorable, although simple, route (it is a tad overgraded, probably HS). Exciting for seconder and leader, this pitch embarks on a long and exposed hand traverse above the Slow Ledge feature ('a person sitting on it would gradually slide off' as Menlove Edwards said). A cramped move round an edge gains better holds before another traverse leads to a final awkward crux move just below the belay. All Vic's gear came out as I traversed, focusing the mind nicely. Wonderful position, poised above the Western Wing with the Pass below (indeed, this final groove is quite obvious from the road and looks exposed even from there). The final pitch was equally good and made a satisfying lead. Up to a groove, which is excited left to another, bottomless, groove. This is exposed but simple, allowing the position to be savoured to the full. Very enjoyable climbing on large but flat holds leads up this groove and gradually eases as the top of the crag nears. I ran out at least 50 metres of rope before the final belay. A wonderful combination: 600ft and six pitches of excellent and memorable climbing. A long but quite enjoyable descent via the edge of the Eastern Wing led to our much delayed lunch. Spots of drizzle heralded the end of the drought as we ate: very satisfying to have bagged this outing in the nick of time.
Routes: Black Spring (HVS 4a,5a,5a,4a:led p.1+4), Slow Ledge Climb (VS 4b,4b:led p.2)
Like snatching an ice climb when the conditions come good, this felt like a rare prize. After three weeks of drought, this superb route combination seemed likely to be as dry as it will ever get. Conditions are exceptional at present and this was a memorable 600ft trip up the giant Western Wing of Dinas Mot: twice the height of the much more popular Nose. Despite the drought, the first pitch of Black Spring was still wet at the top, as was the start of the second (first proper) pitch. Vic led both 5a pitches, with the first an absorbing affair taking the initial 90ft black slab. After a short wet section, a thin crack runs to sharp holds and is straightforward until it steepens. A traverse left on superb pocketed rock leads to a steeper finish taken on more pockets via some excellent technical climbing. The belay is in a small cave/niche above the slab and below an overhang which means you are cut off from your partner, isolated and suspended in the tiny niche. The next pitch looks hard to start, with a sharp move over the lip. Even after three dry weeks, the two crucial pockets were wet, but the move is much easier than it looks, and a good use of the pockets with hands and a high step up with the feet gains another steep slab. This gives more superb technical climbing: indeed, the crux comes soon after with an initially puzzling move requiring precise footwork. The slab above continues excellent: little pockets and moves that are not obvious but always reasonable in execution. After 100ft of brilliant climbing, a few moves left gain an easier quartzy crack which leads up to the broken terrace. It is this unfortunate, disruptive feature that stops the routes being absolute three star classic. However, it all adds to the adventurous feel of the Western Wing and there isn't actually much heather bashing if you get the line right. I led up easier rock on pitch four, picking my way satisfyingly up through a series of steep but very juggy flakes and grooves to a huge flake belay. All completely dry, which I suspect is not usually the case. From here, Vic led up a crack to the obvious traverse line which turned out to be Slow Ledge, not the fifth pitch of Black Spring. Route finding is much less obvious above the terrace, but this wasn't a problem as I have wanted to do Slow Ledge for years and never got round to it. It gives a memorable, although simple, route (it is a tad overgraded, probably HS). Exciting for seconder and leader, this pitch embarks on a long and exposed hand traverse above the Slow Ledge feature ('a person sitting on it would gradually slide off' as Menlove Edwards said). A cramped move round an edge gains better holds before another traverse leads to a final awkward crux move just below the belay. All Vic's gear came out as I traversed, focusing the mind nicely. Wonderful position, poised above the Western Wing with the Pass below (indeed, this final groove is quite obvious from the road and looks exposed even from there). The final pitch was equally good and made a satisfying lead. Up to a groove, which is excited left to another, bottomless, groove. This is exposed but simple, allowing the position to be savoured to the full. Very enjoyable climbing on large but flat holds leads up this groove and gradually eases as the top of the crag nears. I ran out at least 50 metres of rope before the final belay. A wonderful combination: 600ft and six pitches of excellent and memorable climbing. A long but quite enjoyable descent via the edge of the Eastern Wing led to our much delayed lunch. Spots of drizzle heralded the end of the drought as we ate: very satisfying to have bagged this outing in the nick of time.
Saturday, May 06, 2017
Preseli Beast fell race
Race: Preseli Beast (37.7km/4652ft/AL)
Time/Position: 3.52.23 (18th from 136)
The longest race ever included in the Welsh fell running championship. At this time of year that statistic wouldn't normally be a problem, as I would have marathon training in my legs. Not this year, however: indeed, the Anniversary Waltz, half the distance, was my longest run in the lead-in. So, I had a sense of genuine foreboding going into the race, reliant entirely on 'muscle memory' from 20 marathons and 30+ long fell races in the past. Having said all that, the event sounded brilliant, and I've only raced once in the wonderful landscape of the Preseli Hills in northern Pembrokeshire (2011's Ras Beca, also a Welsh Champs race). More to the point, I will miss the other 'long' in the championship, so had little choice here as I would like to give the champs a bash again this year. A small group of us rendezvoused at Maenclochog this morning after Vic and I broke the journey yesterday at Bird Rock. We had camped in a wonderful tranquil site two miles outside the village, down narrow lanes and overlooking the small Cleddau valley. I was woken by birdsong and sunshine after a peaceful night's sleep. The race started amidst a great atmosphere, it seemed like the whole village had turned out to support it. Tracks and lanes to Rosebush in glorious sunshine led through varied terrain of farmland, woods and small hills until a longer climb through Penmaenog forest eased us into the meat of the proceedings. We moved onto the high moorland of Preseli and climbed to the summit of Cerrig Lladron for far-reaching views over the whole region and, distantly, the sea above Newport (the half way point!). There followed a very long descent towards Cwm Gwaun and a dog leg through beautiful sun-dappled native woodland with bluebells and oaks. Across the little river, then another sharp climb through Sychbant woods to Mynydd Caregog. Above this, the terrain changes completely to moorland again with brilliant running towards the coast. Tremendous views in front, from this elevated position above Newport, still glorious sunshine. A steep descent with the sea directly below led to steep, twisting lanes down to Newport itself, and more crowd support. This was around half way, and I was somewhat surprised to feel reasonably good after my very slow start. That said, after running through the village the steep lanes back into the Preseli hills were hard work, and this continued as one of the day's key climbs (up to the mythical summit of Carningli) begins immediately. Beautiful terrain: rocky outcrops dotted around the highpoint, an ancient landscape. It had clouded over now, and after a bite to eat I had perked up again: in fact I felt really good for the very long and gradual descent down to Gwaun. I even started to pick up a few places and myself, Andy and Hayley ran together for a while over the smaller hills of Banc Du and Waun Mawr. At the road crossing at Tafarn y Bwlch, the Beast joins the Beast Bach: so there were hundreds more runners on the route all of a sudden. This made life tricky, but also helped a bit with the pacing. A steep and demanding climb over Foel Feddau then led to a high traverse path over to Preseli's highpoint (only 536m!) at Foel Cwmberwyn. From the summit, Maenclochog was visible but it looked a long way away! It was just a matter of keeping the legs turning over for the very long but very runnable descent along the eastern fringe of Penmaenog woods back circuitously to a memorable finish at Maenclochog. Great event, and the time-honoured undertrained tactics (to go incredibly slowly, walk every climb, and eat continually!) worked.
Time/Position: 3.52.23 (18th from 136)
The longest race ever included in the Welsh fell running championship. At this time of year that statistic wouldn't normally be a problem, as I would have marathon training in my legs. Not this year, however: indeed, the Anniversary Waltz, half the distance, was my longest run in the lead-in. So, I had a sense of genuine foreboding going into the race, reliant entirely on 'muscle memory' from 20 marathons and 30+ long fell races in the past. Having said all that, the event sounded brilliant, and I've only raced once in the wonderful landscape of the Preseli Hills in northern Pembrokeshire (2011's Ras Beca, also a Welsh Champs race). More to the point, I will miss the other 'long' in the championship, so had little choice here as I would like to give the champs a bash again this year. A small group of us rendezvoused at Maenclochog this morning after Vic and I broke the journey yesterday at Bird Rock. We had camped in a wonderful tranquil site two miles outside the village, down narrow lanes and overlooking the small Cleddau valley. I was woken by birdsong and sunshine after a peaceful night's sleep. The race started amidst a great atmosphere, it seemed like the whole village had turned out to support it. Tracks and lanes to Rosebush in glorious sunshine led through varied terrain of farmland, woods and small hills until a longer climb through Penmaenog forest eased us into the meat of the proceedings. We moved onto the high moorland of Preseli and climbed to the summit of Cerrig Lladron for far-reaching views over the whole region and, distantly, the sea above Newport (the half way point!). There followed a very long descent towards Cwm Gwaun and a dog leg through beautiful sun-dappled native woodland with bluebells and oaks. Across the little river, then another sharp climb through Sychbant woods to Mynydd Caregog. Above this, the terrain changes completely to moorland again with brilliant running towards the coast. Tremendous views in front, from this elevated position above Newport, still glorious sunshine. A steep descent with the sea directly below led to steep, twisting lanes down to Newport itself, and more crowd support. This was around half way, and I was somewhat surprised to feel reasonably good after my very slow start. That said, after running through the village the steep lanes back into the Preseli hills were hard work, and this continued as one of the day's key climbs (up to the mythical summit of Carningli) begins immediately. Beautiful terrain: rocky outcrops dotted around the highpoint, an ancient landscape. It had clouded over now, and after a bite to eat I had perked up again: in fact I felt really good for the very long and gradual descent down to Gwaun. I even started to pick up a few places and myself, Andy and Hayley ran together for a while over the smaller hills of Banc Du and Waun Mawr. At the road crossing at Tafarn y Bwlch, the Beast joins the Beast Bach: so there were hundreds more runners on the route all of a sudden. This made life tricky, but also helped a bit with the pacing. A steep and demanding climb over Foel Feddau then led to a high traverse path over to Preseli's highpoint (only 536m!) at Foel Cwmberwyn. From the summit, Maenclochog was visible but it looked a long way away! It was just a matter of keeping the legs turning over for the very long but very runnable descent along the eastern fringe of Penmaenog woods back circuitously to a memorable finish at Maenclochog. Great event, and the time-honoured undertrained tactics (to go incredibly slowly, walk every climb, and eat continually!) worked.
Friday, May 05, 2017
Bro Dysynni climbing
Crag: Craig yr Aderyn/Bird Rock, Bro Dysynni
Routes: The Diagonal (S:led p.1)
Bird Rock was the perfect place to break the long journey down to Pembrokeshire for tomorrow's Preseli Beast race. I have climbed here once before, way back in 1994 when I lived in a portakabin on a hillside above Penrhyncoch. Although it is remote, it has the distinct advantage of being next to the road, and we certainly did not want to expend unnecessary energy before tomorrow's likely physical battering. It is a strange crag, however, a tad intimidating with little to offer in the lower grades. I'd done the Buttress before, so we kicked off with the most obvious line of the crag, The Diagonal, which takes the deep break splitting the cliff from left to right. Despite its lowly grade and short length, the route had a slightly serious feel: loose, insecure, untravelled and compounded by the diagonal nature of the line which requires a bit of thought. I led the first pitch, which stays slightly right of the break on good holds until reaching the crack proper. Some questionable threads and loose material, but quite interesting. Above, a tricky move past a tree gains a platform and steep, clean finishing groove. I then led a long third pitch up scrambling terrain to the top of the crag: a ridiculously long descent for such a small crag! The time and effort taken sadly precluded any other routes, given the distance left to travel. The weather continues to be absolutely perfect, and the rest of the drive to Pembrokeshire was stunning in the late afternoon sunshine. Fish and chips in Penparcau were a nice accompaniment to the scenery.
Routes: The Diagonal (S:led p.1)
Bird Rock was the perfect place to break the long journey down to Pembrokeshire for tomorrow's Preseli Beast race. I have climbed here once before, way back in 1994 when I lived in a portakabin on a hillside above Penrhyncoch. Although it is remote, it has the distinct advantage of being next to the road, and we certainly did not want to expend unnecessary energy before tomorrow's likely physical battering. It is a strange crag, however, a tad intimidating with little to offer in the lower grades. I'd done the Buttress before, so we kicked off with the most obvious line of the crag, The Diagonal, which takes the deep break splitting the cliff from left to right. Despite its lowly grade and short length, the route had a slightly serious feel: loose, insecure, untravelled and compounded by the diagonal nature of the line which requires a bit of thought. I led the first pitch, which stays slightly right of the break on good holds until reaching the crack proper. Some questionable threads and loose material, but quite interesting. Above, a tricky move past a tree gains a platform and steep, clean finishing groove. I then led a long third pitch up scrambling terrain to the top of the crag: a ridiculously long descent for such a small crag! The time and effort taken sadly precluded any other routes, given the distance left to travel. The weather continues to be absolutely perfect, and the rest of the drive to Pembrokeshire was stunning in the late afternoon sunshine. Fish and chips in Penparcau were a nice accompaniment to the scenery.
Thursday, May 04, 2017
Llanberis Slate climbing
Crag: Bus Stop Quarry/Blast Shelter Quarry, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Comfort Zone (f5b:led), Jenga (f5:led), Bosch Stop Quarry (f6a+:sec), Ferrero Roche (HS 4a:led), Septuagenarian (f5c:sec), Equinox (VS 4c:sec), Jagged Face direct (f5:led), Solstice (HVS 5b:sec), Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b:sec)
Some indication of my poor climbing form was provided by my struggles on this brief session today. Usually, I go quite well on slate, but the lack of climbing this year means that I remain hopelessly weak! A beautiful May day, with lovely views over Moel Eilio from the top of the quarries, where I kicked off with a lead of the easy Comfort Zone, which take a series of sharp slate 'steps' via one steepish move. Jenga is in a nice position above the Solstice wall, and is a pretty neat route, although very short: it takes a clean groove and is simple but thought-provoking. The f6a+ to its left has one awkward move involving a side pull and a tenuous bridge. I then led the cleaned trad line up the obvious shattered corner right of the first bolted wall. This gave simple, scruffy but enjoyable climbing and Vic then led Septuagenerian, which I've done several times before. Then came the two much older trad routes: Equinox and Solstice, both of which I've led before. Indeed, I led Solstice about five years ago, finding it simple enough. Today was a different story. I seconded Vic and found the main move up the layback desperate: polished and strenuous. I struggled to the point that it soured the day somewhat. The moves today seemed UK 5c briefly, but I seem to remember that a crucial hold had already fallen off before the last time I led it. Maybe something else has fallen off? We finished off at the Blast Shelter Crag below the road, seconding the delicate E1 5b slab by two enjoyable variants.
Routes: Comfort Zone (f5b:led), Jenga (f5:led), Bosch Stop Quarry (f6a+:sec), Ferrero Roche (HS 4a:led), Septuagenarian (f5c:sec), Equinox (VS 4c:sec), Jagged Face direct (f5:led), Solstice (HVS 5b:sec), Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b:sec)
Some indication of my poor climbing form was provided by my struggles on this brief session today. Usually, I go quite well on slate, but the lack of climbing this year means that I remain hopelessly weak! A beautiful May day, with lovely views over Moel Eilio from the top of the quarries, where I kicked off with a lead of the easy Comfort Zone, which take a series of sharp slate 'steps' via one steepish move. Jenga is in a nice position above the Solstice wall, and is a pretty neat route, although very short: it takes a clean groove and is simple but thought-provoking. The f6a+ to its left has one awkward move involving a side pull and a tenuous bridge. I then led the cleaned trad line up the obvious shattered corner right of the first bolted wall. This gave simple, scruffy but enjoyable climbing and Vic then led Septuagenerian, which I've done several times before. Then came the two much older trad routes: Equinox and Solstice, both of which I've led before. Indeed, I led Solstice about five years ago, finding it simple enough. Today was a different story. I seconded Vic and found the main move up the layback desperate: polished and strenuous. I struggled to the point that it soured the day somewhat. The moves today seemed UK 5c briefly, but I seem to remember that a crucial hold had already fallen off before the last time I led it. Maybe something else has fallen off? We finished off at the Blast Shelter Crag below the road, seconding the delicate E1 5b slab by two enjoyable variants.
Wednesday, May 03, 2017
Dinas Bran fell race
Race: Ysgol Dinas Bran (6.9k/1150ft)
Time/Position: 33.21 (9th from 65)
Although I have done this race 7 or 8 times, dating back to 2003, the initial tarmac climb never gets any easier. I tried keeping the pace steady, but the race is so short that you have to go off fairly hard. As is often the case on this race, it was a nice Spring evening, although it clouded over a bit during the race. My time was similar to previous years, around a minute down on my best, but I finished at the back of a group of four fast finishing Buckley Runners, with finish times less than 10 seconds apart.
Time/Position: 33.21 (9th from 65)
Although I have done this race 7 or 8 times, dating back to 2003, the initial tarmac climb never gets any easier. I tried keeping the pace steady, but the race is so short that you have to go off fairly hard. As is often the case on this race, it was a nice Spring evening, although it clouded over a bit during the race. My time was similar to previous years, around a minute down on my best, but I finished at the back of a group of four fast finishing Buckley Runners, with finish times less than 10 seconds apart.
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