Dinas Mot climbing

Crag: Dinas Mot (Western Wing), Llanberis
Routes: Black Spring (HVS 4a,5a,5a,4a:led p.1+4), Slow Ledge Climb (VS 4b,4b:led p.2)
Like snatching an ice climb when the conditions come good, this felt like a rare prize. After three weeks of drought, this superb route combination seemed likely to be as dry as it will ever get. Conditions are exceptional at present and this was a memorable 600ft trip up the giant Western Wing of Dinas Mot: twice the height of the much more popular Nose. Despite the drought, the first pitch of Black Spring was still wet at the top, as was the start of the second (first proper) pitch. Vic led both 5a pitches, with the first an absorbing affair taking the initial 90ft black slab. After a short wet section, a thin crack runs to sharp holds and is straightforward until it steepens. A traverse left on superb pocketed rock leads to a steeper finish taken on more pockets via some excellent technical climbing. The belay is in a small cave/niche above the slab and below an overhang which means you are cut off from your partner, isolated and suspended in the tiny niche. The next pitch looks hard to start, with a sharp move over the lip. Even after three dry weeks, the two crucial pockets were wet, but the move is much easier than it looks, and a good use of the pockets with hands and a high step up with the feet gains another steep slab. This gives more superb technical climbing: indeed, the crux comes soon after with an initially puzzling move requiring precise footwork. The slab above continues excellent: little pockets and moves that are not obvious but always reasonable in execution. After 100ft of brilliant climbing, a few moves left gain an easier quartzy crack which leads up to the broken terrace. It is this unfortunate, disruptive feature that stops the routes being absolute three star classic. However, it all adds to the adventurous feel of the Western Wing and there isn't actually much heather bashing if you get the line right. I led up easier rock on pitch four, picking my way satisfyingly up through a series of steep but very juggy flakes and grooves to a huge flake belay. All completely dry, which I suspect is not usually the case. From here, Vic led up a crack to the obvious traverse line which turned out to be Slow Ledge, not the fifth pitch of Black Spring. Route finding is much less obvious above the terrace, but this wasn't a problem as I have wanted to do Slow Ledge for years and never got round to it. It gives a memorable, although simple, route (it is a tad overgraded, probably HS). Exciting for seconder and leader, this pitch embarks on a long and exposed hand traverse above the Slow Ledge feature ('a person sitting on it would gradually slide off' as Menlove Edwards said). A cramped move round an edge gains better holds before another traverse leads to a final awkward crux move just below the belay. All Vic's gear came out as I traversed, focusing the mind nicely. Wonderful position, poised above the Western Wing with the Pass below (indeed, this final groove is quite obvious from the road and looks exposed even from there). The final pitch was equally good and made a satisfying lead. Up to a groove, which is excited left to another, bottomless, groove. This is exposed but simple, allowing the position to be savoured to the full. Very enjoyable climbing on large but flat holds leads up this groove and gradually eases as the top of the crag nears. I ran out at least 50 metres of rope before the final belay. A wonderful combination: 600ft and six pitches of excellent and memorable climbing. A long but quite enjoyable descent via the edge of the Eastern Wing led to our much delayed lunch. Spots of drizzle heralded the end of the drought as we ate: very satisfying to have bagged this outing in the nick of time.