Thursday, May 04, 2017

Llanberis Slate climbing

Crag: Bus Stop Quarry/Blast Shelter Quarry, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Comfort Zone (f5b:led), Jenga (f5:led), Bosch Stop Quarry (f6a+:sec), Ferrero Roche (HS 4a:led), Septuagenarian (f5c:sec), Equinox (VS 4c:sec), Jagged Face direct (f5:led), Solstice (HVS 5b:sec), Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b:sec)
Some indication of my poor climbing form was provided by my struggles on this brief session today. Usually, I go quite well on slate, but the lack of climbing this year means that I remain hopelessly weak! A beautiful May day, with lovely views over Moel Eilio from the top of the quarries, where I kicked off with a lead of the easy Comfort Zone, which take a series of sharp slate 'steps' via one steepish move. Jenga is in a nice position above the Solstice wall, and is a pretty neat route, although very short: it takes a clean groove and is simple but thought-provoking. The f6a+ to its left has one awkward move involving a side pull and a tenuous bridge. I then led the cleaned trad line up the obvious shattered corner right of the first bolted wall. This gave simple, scruffy but enjoyable climbing and Vic then led Septuagenerian, which I've done several times before. Then came the two much older trad routes: Equinox and Solstice, both of which I've led before. Indeed, I led Solstice about five years ago, finding it simple enough. Today was a different story. I seconded Vic and found the main move up the layback desperate: polished and strenuous. I struggled to the point that it soured the day somewhat. The moves today seemed UK 5c briefly, but I seem to remember that a crucial hold had already fallen off before the last time I led it. Maybe something else has fallen off? We finished off at the Blast Shelter Crag below the road, seconding the delicate E1 5b slab by two enjoyable variants.

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