Aran wildcamp

This is becoming something of a tradition: a midsummer solo wildcamp in Eryri. After an unusually hot Collie run, I headed over to Llanuwchllyn in glorious evening sunshine, beginning the run at 8pm as the sun began to drop. I took the race route, with the intention of finding a camp with views to west and east, my usual stipulations. The obvious problem was a lack of water: it is unusually dry across the hills at present, and I eventually settled on a spot on the western side of Moel Ffenigl (very close to the highpoint of this March's shortened Ras yr Aran - in fact, that was the last time I was up here, less than four months ago, in a windchill of -20c and heavy snow showers). A surprisingly stiff easterly blew up, so I pitched in the lee of a rocky outcrop (allowing for a bit of bouldering in the evening sunshine). The midges weren't too bad, and I found a trickle of water in a nearby stream for my morning brew. The sun dropped below Snowdon and Arenig: a magnificent evening. Sadly, however, the easterly disturbed my sleep a bit - although that did mean I caught the sunrise as I enjoyed a dawn run along the ridge. The sunrise was as spectacular as the sunset, and a full moon shone above Cader to the west.

Ogwen climbing

Crag: Bochlwyd Buttress/West Face Tryfan
Routes: Two Pitch Route (S 4a:led), Cannon Ridge (S 4a:led p.2,3,4), Jamie's Route p.1 (S 4a:led), Buzzard's Buttress p.1+2 (M:des)
A pleasant day of gentle mountaineering around the lower reaches of Ogwen, which was just as well with an ongoing pulley rupture sustained at Maeshafn. The weather has been absolutely stunning: a sustained period of high pressure with magnificent clarity of light and no end to the dry spell in sight. Steve is still new to Snowdonian climbing, so I took him up to Bochlwyd for a warm-up, leading the delightful two-pitch route. I'm almost certain I've done this before: it is a lovely relaxing climb, a nice long pitch up a series of small grooves with excellent protection throughout. We then ploughed through the awful heather towards the west face of Tryfan. I am gradually ticking off the routes here, and this time we added Cannon Ridge - a pleasant outing with a mountaineering flavour. Steve led a long scrambly pitch up a pinnacled ridge, then I led up a chimney to gain a ramp line and small belay. Then a devious pitch with a mantel and little traverse to a flake before one tricky move up a slabby crack gains easier climbing. To finish, Steve led his first proper trad pitch up the tight chimney. Good climb, albeit contrived and escapeable - although most Tryfan climbing is. An awkward descent down an untracked gully, a quick lunch, and it was time for the first pitch of Jamie's Route, which takes a very attractive and eye-catching slab, probably the best feature on this side of Tryfan. The route takes a rather awkward off-width crack to a chockstone, then climbs a pleasant groove and slabs with sharp little flake holds. I continued up the route for a bit, much easier above, before we descended further right - down the fine scramble of Buzzard's Buttress.

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1.27.57 (8th from 83)
Not sure how many times I have done this race (7 or 8) but I am almost certain this was my slowest ever. I didn't feel too bad after Friday's race, although that might have been something to do with the gentle pace. It was hot, but not as bad as I'd expected and not as bad as I have known it (the far side of the race on the northern slopes of Gamelin can be like a furnace, but today we had a slight breeze). Beautiful clarity of light as the wonderful spell of weather continues, and actually an enjoyable outing (again, probably due to the slow pace). Very steady over the ridge to Gamelin and Morfydd, then I began to pick up a few places, feeling quite good. Myself, Simon and Richard were together for a while at the far end of the course in the wild country above Carrog. I managed to keep things ticking over for the return but was a tad dehydrated for the always-desperate climb back over Gamelin.

Tattenhall Tough Team

Race: Tattenhall Tough Team
Time/Position: 64.16 (14th from 221)
Pressure was on for the TTT this year: one of my favourite local races, but as a team event it is always likely to expose a lack of speed. In the event, I was nearly five minutes down on my best time for the course but middle finisher for our team ('the good, the bad and the ugly'), sandwiched between in-form clubmates Chris and Eddie. I felt a little better than expected for the long road section up to the Peckforton Hills, in glorious evening sunshine. Very dry underfoot for the off-road section, with the usual horrendous climb up the infamous 'railway'. Chris and I reconvened with Eddie at the top of the Railway, as is conventional, but I found the rest of the race hard going and dropped a few places. Perhaps the sixth time I've done this great team event.

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (S 4a:led), Flying Block (E1 5b:sec), Royal Plume (E2 6a:sec), Knotty Problem/Laxix (E1 5b:sec), The Corner (E1 5b:sec)
Even though I've been coming here for 30 years there are still some routes I haven't done. I've no great desire to lead them, but a quick training session with rope above worked well today in unexpectedly cold and drizzly (very light) conditions. I led up Rambler, which has never been any more than VD and still isn't, then we did Flying Block with its strenuous crux over the block using a side pull. Easier climbing above. Royal Plume is desperate in my view, really hard almost throughout with a particularly tricky crux which is simultaneously technical and strenuous, and it remains technical above it: surely undergraded. We then did the mantelshelf start of Knotty Problem which leads logically into the right-curving crack taken by the E4 of Laxix. This is an obvious combination, no more than E1 5b. Finally, the awkward E1 of the Corner, which has tricky and constricted moves up the corner to a hard traverse right on small holds to an easier finish.

Dee Valley Way/North Berwyn Way

Peaks: Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain
Area: Berwyn
After running the 15 mile North Berwyn Way point-to-point a fortnight ago, it seemed fairly obvious to extend it into a longer 30 mile loop from Llangollen by combining it with the Dee Valley Way. A useful way of keeping the distance work ticking over with a few more long races coming up in this, my ultra year. Jez and I set off in the early morning from Llangollen with light rain falling. Over the Dee then along the canal towards Rhewl. The Dee Valley Way is a tad contrived, as various sections take mini off-road loops north of the minor road through Carrog: more pastoral and gentler than the North Berwyn route. These loops are not always well-marked and we failed to find the route a few times until branching off at the Sun Inn, Rhewl, to take an excellent track over the hills to the west. A few more detours around Glyndyfyrdwy and along to Carrog, before the more logical quiet road down to Corwen, which nestles in its valley attractively from this side of the river. Then, the half way point, crossing the Dee into Corwen, where I purchased chocolate milk and a snickers for a much-needed boost. The return leg was a carbon copy of our traverse two weeks ago - in almost identical weather. The very long climb is, however, a lot harder with 17 miles in the legs! Some mist on top of Moel Fferna, then steady rain and thick clag over Vivod. Jez went ahead for this long section, but I still got back to Llangollen (in heavy rain) in a pleasingly efficient 4.35.

Rainbow Walls

Crag: Rainbow Walls, Llanberis
Routes: Taken Over by Department C (f6a:led)
After such a productive and enjoyable Skye trip, squeezing a lot into a short time, I was due a failure and this was it. The plan was ambitious: an afternoon trip to the slate with a stop off in Conwy for an attempt at the f6b on Noticeboard crag I have been looking at for a while. Conditions were perfect, I was fresh, and the route was well-bolted and excellent - superb rhyolite - but I could not quite commit to the move above the fourth bolt to the obvious ledge. I pledged to Steve that I would only have one ground-up onsight attempt, which was not a good idea! I kept to the pledge, and lowered off, tail between my legs. Slate was even less successful. We tried to walk to Rainbow Walls from Dinorwic in perfect weather, fluffy clouds and a cooling breeze. I'd been down before to the Bela Lugosi area, but couldn't remember the way. We ended up descending all the way to Padarn, then re-ascending via the correct, but complex, route from the bottom. This all took ages, of course. Eventually, I led the unusual f6a on the Cig-Arete walls. It goes up a dolerite seam with unusual and thought-provoking moves to a crux pull on to the upper slab via small holds. The upper slab is a real surprise - gently inclined but quite technical and delicate, and moss-covered (albeit dry after recent weather). I then failed again, on Gwion's Groove, for exactly the same reason at exactly the same grade. I made the high first clip, then did the crux up the strenuous lay-backed mini-arete, but did not want to commit to the final run-out. An utterly inefficient, time-wasting afternoon out!

Welsh Castles Relay

Race: Welsh Castles Relay, Stage 11 Newtown-Llanbadarn Fynydd (12m/500ft)
Time/Position: 1.19.45 (16th from 66)
I've wanted to sample this event for years, and the recent dramatic expansion of the club means that it is now likely to be a regular occurrence. For the full flavour of the event, you probably need to devote the entire weekend to it - that wasn't an option for me, so I drove down to Newtown on Saturday evening, watched Stage 10 finish, and set off on Stage 11 in the early morning mist at 7am after sleeping in the car. This is a great mountain stage, probably the most suitable for me given current lack of speed. It climbs out of town on the A483 towards Dolfor - and carries on climbing for most of its length. We emerged from the mist quite quickly, and the rest of the race was run in perfect sunny conditions, not too hot in the early morning. I kept a steady pace throughout, settling in with another runner, and we helped each other a lot, just ticking over not wanting to risk a blow up. Towards the end of the climb, I started to push on a bit, feeling better than I have recently, then pushed again as the race levelled off with a few miles to go before the finish at Llanbadarn Fynydd. Possibly a tad too conservative, but I've been so far off the pace recently that I probably got the pacing about right and at least it meant I finished the stage strongly. The atmosphere is great throughout, with an entourage of support vehicles passing as the race continues southwards. It would be nice to do it properly and sample the atmosphere one year: by contrast, I finished my stage before 8.20am and was home for breakfast by 10am.

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Mathematical Workout (E3 6a:sec), Calculus (E4 5c:sec)
A brief top-roping session on routes that have always been too hard for me, and in a sense still are. The E3 is simultaneously very technical and strenuous, up a thin crack with little for the feet: coming in from the left is a tad easier. Then, small honeycombed holds are reached along with a tenuous undercut. The crux comes next, which was dogged by me, up to a long reach for a flat hold. This is the key to the route, and after standing on it the upper slab is gained - this is still technical but easier than below. I found Calculus slightly easier with rope above, as its grade suggests. There are no moves quite as hard as the E3 crux although it is strenuous and sustained. A layback on the smooth arete, quite awkward and strenuous, leads to a good foothold and a hard pull. Again, the smooth wall above is easier than the climbing below. Just a quick session before the Collie run up Moel Famau.

Tinto run

Peak: Tinto (711)
Area: Southern Uplands
Tinto is a familiar feature of the landscape south of the central belt, and gives a perfect short 'leg stretcher' on the journey south. A glorious drive from Skye yesterday evening: fish and chips in Broadford, then a magical tour through familiar parts of the Western Highlands in soft evening light. After a car bivouac outside Crianlarich, I woke at 4.30am, was devoured by clouds of midges as I performed my morning ablutions, and decided to crack on instead of bothering with a claggy, midgy run over An Caisteal (my original intention). Instead, I pushed on down quiet early morning roads and pulled up at the primary school in Wiston, Lanarkshire, at 7am. This is not the standard way up Tinto, but the route is fairly obvious after the lodge is negotiated. A series of inclining cow fields leads to a steeper section at the open hill. It was cool and breezy, with some cloud boiling up to the east, but no hint of what was in store. In the event, as my run slowed to a walk for the steep final climb, I began to suspect I might be in for a treat as cloud wisps lapped up from the valleys. At the summit, which is a huge cairn, a glorious cloud inversion - particularly solid to the east. It had taken me less than 25 minutes running from Wiston, so I just enjoyed the spectacular effects for a few minutes. Stunning and a totally unexpected bonus from such an innocuous hill. To the south, the Uplands stretched out above the sea of cloud. I ran back via a more direct route to Wiston, over the main path through the scree 'crag' back to the village before the primary school opened for the morning.

North Cuillin traverse

Peaks: Knight's Peak (914m), Sgurr nan Gillean (964m), Bhasteir Tooth (917m), Bruach na Frith (958m)
Routes: Pinnacle Ridge (D:al), West Ridge (M:sol), Naismith's Route (S:led p.1)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
The agonies of choice became even more acute today, as circumstances meant it was my last day on Skye - a whistlestop trip. One option was climbing on Blaven, but Vic had the whole week at his disposal so I opted for another mountaineering outing with a dash of spice. A good option, because for me Sgurr nan Gillean is the best mountain in Scotland. I first climbed it via the normal south-east ridge in 1993 and have done all the other contenders for that accolade - I just think its appearance and elegant ridge routes to the summit, with no easy options, make it a great mountain. As such, the full traverse - up Pinnacle Ridge and down the West - is quite special, completed all three ridges on the mountain for me, and was just the first part of a memorable day. Pinnacle Ridge itself is one of the most eye-catching lines in the British Isles, much closer to an Alpine route than a British rock climb - PD+ rather than Diff. We walked in from Sligachan taking the route I'd used to Am Basteir in 2015. From the blunt spur at the entrance to Coire Bhasteir, we moved up to the obvious ribs that lead to the top of the first pinnacle. This is not necessarily the normal route but gave some excellent scrambling. The weather was not as perfect as it has been: grey, with a spot of very light drizzle, although it improved slightly later and the cloudbase remained high. We roped up and I led a nice pitch to gain the top of the second pinnacle via a series of walls and chimneys. The ridge is broad at this point, and just a walk, so we moved together - this became Alpine style as the route steepens towards the third pinnacle. Some slabs and a nice open groove gain the top and a sudden dramatic change in character as the ridge plunges down to a breche between the pinnacle and Knight's Peak, which looms beyond the gap with a big drop to the north. We had very little information about the ridge, as it was a last-minute decision, so initially it was unclear where the route went. There was abseil tat, however, and after some scouting around, we descended where the nail scratches were - and once abseiling down it all becomes much clearer and less dramatic. The wall descends to an open chimney which the abseil continues down to gain the tiny col between the two peaks. I led a pitch up the obvious traverse line up right to a flake, then good easy climbing up slabby rock. Vic continued with another long easy pitch on good rock to the top of Knight's Peak itself, surely one of the hardest summits in the UK to reach (although I believe it lost its Munro top status recently). This is a great place, and another gulf separates it from Gillean. This time, however, it can be negotiated by downclimbing and traversing round a gendarme to gain another 'breche'. From here, the route finding is complex - I climbed down the gully before ascending a vague orange groove. There were very few anchors, and I eventually emerged at the traverse path which marks the end of the route. After bringing up Vic, we continued to traverse, airy in places, to the West Ridge. I went up this to the Window, then came down for lunch. We descended the rest of the ridge, abbing down Tooth chimney to avoid a very slow guided party, then took the traverse path on snow patches and scree below Am Basteir on the Sligachan side (I failed to find this route in thick mist in 2015, hardly surprising as it is quite tenuous). After the snow patch, the steep scree is hard work and leads underneath the unappealing King's Cave chimney, which was likely to be our abseil descent route.We left our sacks at the Bealach nan Lice, and took the ridge towards the Basteir Tooth, another legendary feature of the Cuillins and almost certainly the most intimidating pitch on the ridge if the classic Naismith's Route is taken. I led an easy first pitch traversing right over lots of space to a spike, then Vic led through. It is, of course, far easier than it looks from below: a simple groove leads to a traverse, then a surprisingly tricky move (perhaps taken too far right) to a ledge before the final, obvious finishing cracks in a tremendous position. Pulling over was a real surprise. The summit of the Tooth is above, but reached via a gently sloping roof - not precipitous at all. Still, another great place to be, and to have to ourselves. I'd done Am Basteir in 2015, so we slithered down to an abseil point. A short ab led down to King's Cave Chimney, a dank and gloomy cleft between the Tooth and Am Basteir. From here, another 25m abseil, free hanging initially, led down the dripping cleft to the traverse path we'd just taken. All very efficient again, and after a snack we ambled to the top of Bruach na Frith, a munro and one of the simplest of Skye summits. A little sunshine tried to force its way through the clouds, and Vic and I went our separate ways: Glen Brittle in his case, and back down Fionn Choire in mine. I decided to run down, not wanting to miss fish and chips in Broadford. After a short rocky section, I could open out and emerged into the greenery of Coire na Circe where I crossed the Allt Dearg Mor and gained the Glen Brittle path for fast running back to Sligachan, where the view of Glamaig towering in front brought back fond memories of my birthday attempt to break the hour in 2015. I washed in the river, dined in Broadford, and drove to Crianlarich. A memorable three days in the Cuillin, with a necessarily strategic approach taken to the maximising of limited time and the desire to fill the most obvious (30 year) gaps in my British mountaineering CV.

In Pinn to An Dorus

Peaks: Sgurr Dearg (978m), Inaccessible Pinnacle x 2 (986m), Sgurr na Banachdich (965m), Sgurr Thormaid (926m), Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh (973m)
Routes: East Ridge (M:led), South Crack (HVD:sec), South Ridge (2:sol), South-West Ridge (3S:sol)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
Spoilt for choice: so little time, and such perfect weather. I have waited years for a decent spell of weather in the Cuillin, so it was a tricky decision balancing the desire to move quickly with the desire to do certain things I'd missed in the past. In the end, we went for a mountaineering day, heading up the steep direct climb up Sgurr Dearg straight from the hut, a path beaten out (presumably) by parties intent on the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Indeed, two guided parties were well ahead of us as we began - another leisurely and late start. The weather was perfect, although rather hot and sweaty, but we ploughed upwards and passed both parties before the ridge steepens and narrows to good grade two scrambling up basalt grooves and gabbro walls to Sron Dearg. Eventually, it emerges on a more level ridge with fabulous views across to Alasdair and Thearlaich, The In Pinn emerges ahead and good scrambling leads to the top of the ridge with the west side of the pinnacle directly in front. This has been an obvious gap for me for literally decades, so it was rather weird - but very wonderful - to get it to ourselves and romp up it in minutes. Nobody was around, so we skittered down the slab to the start, roped up, and I led to the top on my old 9mm in one giant pitch. It all took no more than five minutes, but was still hugely enjoyable as the east ridge is obviously wonderfully positioned - essentially a classic arete with huge juggy holds and a lot of space all round. Great views in all directions. After bringing up Vic, we abbed off, then headed straight back for the South Crack. I thought this would be dirty and rarely, if ever, climbed, but I was wrong: it is an excellent 30 metre pitch, a connoiseur's route up the In Pinn, steep but juggy and a very strong line. I then led to the top, again, and we abbed off the chain before the first guided party had even started. Two ascents of the In Pinn in less than an hour - a very cool start to the day! Time for lunch as we watched the guided parties go up, then it was the mouthwatering prospect of a northwards ridge traverse to An Dorus in spectacular conditions as cloud filled the valleys around Blaven. Easy walking along the airy ridge leads to a few steps and then the South Ridge of Banachdich, We took this direct which is exposed in places and leads to a couple of false summits before we finally moved left and enjoyed the simple scramble to the summit, which is quite different in character from most of the rest of the range. It is precipitous to the east, but a gentle ridge down to Glen Brittle meant that there were numerous walkers up here, one of the easiest Skye munros. Great views over the ridge, and a tricky section comes next, with the line not immediately obvious. A descent, then an awkward traverse over scree leads to a narrow gap before the excellent scramble up Sgurr Thormaid, an impressive peak from this angle. A small summit, then easier scrambling down towards the Three Teeth. These are passed surprisingly easily on the left, before the perfect scrambling up the sustained and splendid south-west ridge of Greadaidh. This is one of the narrowest sections of all higher up, with a knife-edge connecting the south summit with the main top. We took a diagonal line up to the crest, all brilliant, then the airy crest before a short chimney and a traverse regains the gap between the two summits. The northern side is simpler, with shelves leading past the 'wart' to a slabby descent. At the bottom, I knew a tricky wall lurked, because I chose to leave it in 2015 when it was soaking and the freezing wind howled through the gap of An Dorus. Today, it was still steep, but completely dry and a doddle to regain An Dorus. The descent was the same as 2015, after I'd climbed Mhadaidh in dreadful weather: tiresome screes lead to gentler slabs and then a delightful stream (and rehydration). The lower cwm was baking and tinder dry, and we were back for an earlier finish than yesterday.

Cioch climbing and South Cuillin ridge

Peaks: Sron na Ciche (859m), Sgurr Sgumain (947m), Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn (938m), Sgurr Dubh Mor (944m)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
Routes: Cioch Direct (S:led p.2,4), Arrow Route (VD:led p.1), Collie's Route (M:led), Integrity (VS 4b,4b:sec), TD Gap East Side (VD:sec)
The archetypal 'big day', and a wonderfully varied curtain-raiser to a short but successful Skye trip. I had prevaricated about any kind of Scottish trip this year, with the children not wanting to come, but as the forecast was so good, and the weather so stable in a blocking high, the 11 hour drive seemed worth it. Vic was already up, and Skye seemed the best option with torrential downpours inland (one of which I'd driven through yesterday). So, rather unexpectedly I found myself making my fourth visit to the island, but the first in properly stable weather (in 1993 we endured a week of continual rain, in 2015 it was mixed but very cold). Walking in to Coire Lagan on the first morning was a delight: red throated divers on loch an fhir bhallaich, with the sea turquoise beyond, and Rum and Soay glittering. Then, it is round the corner into Coire Lagan, one of the finest bowls of rock in the UK. I have vivid memories of a brief clearance here in 1993 as we walked in for the north ridge of Sgumain. Today, it was baked dry, and we were glad of the shade as we set off up the first pitch of the grand old classic Cioch Direct. This takes a series of grooves and chimneys in a 500ft romp up towards the Cioch itself. A tricky first move gains an easy open groove and good moves on the wonderful gabbro - above, easier climbing to the stance. I then led a shorter second up two tighter grooves to a good flake belay: good climbing on more superb rock. The crux comes immediately afterwards, a steep and tight chimney which is awkward with big sacks, which we were both carrying. But we squeezed through using holds on the right wall. Finally, I led a long and exposed final pitch which heads leftwards over slabs to twin cracks, which give interesting climbing to a slabby finish and a terrace. Above, a scrambly pitch gains a wider terrace and the full grandeur of the crag and environment becomes clear for the first time. Up right, the shadow of the Cioch itself, arguably the most famous rock feature in the British Isles. Directly above, the perfect slab taken by Arrow Route. We were intent on the classic combination, so I led an easy first pitch to belay at the break, before Vic padded up to the top - superb open slab climbing, delightfully simple but in a wonderful position on perfect rock. Then comes the real thrill of standing on the narrow neck below the Cioch, which I now led up to via an easy crack system, the top of Collie's Route. We had it to ourselves as I bought Vic up - a wonderful, memorable experience. The sun was just beginning to peep over the top of the crag, and it lit the Cioch as we sat on its roof (the size of a small room) suspended above the crag. After lunch, we continued up the final part of the combination: Integrity, which starts from a recess above a diagonal ledge. The first pitch is outstanding: perfect clean rock, steep initially up to a pocketed slab. The pitch lengths were wrong in our guidebook so Vic ended up leading the second too from a cramped stance as I didn't fancy the move over the roof wearing a sac. The real belay is directly above: annoying. A series of chimneys then leads to the top in a stunning position. Above, an easy pitch to gain the plateau on top of Sron na Ciche in fabulous weather - light mist was now draped over Sgurr Dearg and brushing the top of Alastair above. We relaxed in the sunshine as the day was young, we'd only taken a few hours for the combination (Cioch Direct was dispatched in an hour). Then, it was time for the mountaineering aspect of the day and I was desperate to get to grips with the ridge in these conditions. We headed up Sgumain via some fine scrambling (last here in 1993), then down to the traverse path below Alasdair which leads to the main ridge just south of the T-D gap. Vic suggested we reccie this famous section of the ridge, so we moved along towards it, finding an initial pitch up an easier gap (on which we moved together) before abbing into the famous Thearlaich-Dubh gap itself. Sadly, another party were on it and were moving unbelievably slowly, so we took the frustrating decision to head back up the south side, a short VD climb, before following the ridge south to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. This section is broad and uncomplicated, although the subsequent branch to the munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor is far more complex and would be hard in mist. Pinnacles are avoided to the right, then a traverse path leads to superb scrambling as we took as direct a line as possible to the summit. Short walls and grooves, generally perfect gabbro, brilliant fun even though we were tiring. Then, at the sharp summit, as the sun began to drop, stunning views down to Coruisk and Sleat to the east. We then picked up the less than obvious traverse path back to Bealach a Gharbh Coire, almost certainly not the best route, tough terrain throughout, particularly at the end of a long day. I'd intended to sprint up Sgurr nan Eag but the thought of food and drink got the better of me: we were dehydrated, inevitably, so jogged down to the stunning Coire a'Ghrunnda, its sky-blue water glittering in the evening sunshine. Below the tricky slabs, a stream, and relief (although the midges soon moved us on). A long walk-out under deep blue cloudless skies ensued, and it was close to 9pm by the time we got back to the Glen Brittle memorial hut, where I slept in the van to the sound of curlew and drumming snipe.

Sron Garbh run

It had been my intention to break the long drive to Skye with a run over some Southern Highlands peaks. But after a late breakfast in Moffat, and lunch on the shores of of Loch Lomond, slow moving showers came in as I set out up An Caisteal from the layby south of Crianlarich. The cloudbase was quite high, so I kept running - torn between wanting to do something and wanting to save energy for Skye. The rain became a bit more steady as I left the path for the steep climb up the nose of Sron Garbh, obvious from the main road. As I crested the ridge to get a view of Twistin Hill and An Caisteal, there was a clap of thunder. A good sign, I thought, and turned round for a running descent back to the car. Still, a nice way to stretch the legs and bonus energy saved to spend over the next few days.