In Pinn to An Dorus

Peaks: Sgurr Dearg (978m), Inaccessible Pinnacle x 2 (986m), Sgurr na Banachdich (965m), Sgurr Thormaid (926m), Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh (973m)
Routes: East Ridge (M:led), South Crack (HVD:sec), South Ridge (2:sol), South-West Ridge (3S:sol)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
Spoilt for choice: so little time, and such perfect weather. I have waited years for a decent spell of weather in the Cuillin, so it was a tricky decision balancing the desire to move quickly with the desire to do certain things I'd missed in the past. In the end, we went for a mountaineering day, heading up the steep direct climb up Sgurr Dearg straight from the hut, a path beaten out (presumably) by parties intent on the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Indeed, two guided parties were well ahead of us as we began - another leisurely and late start. The weather was perfect, although rather hot and sweaty, but we ploughed upwards and passed both parties before the ridge steepens and narrows to good grade two scrambling up basalt grooves and gabbro walls to Sron Dearg. Eventually, it emerges on a more level ridge with fabulous views across to Alasdair and Thearlaich, The In Pinn emerges ahead and good scrambling leads to the top of the ridge with the west side of the pinnacle directly in front. This has been an obvious gap for me for literally decades, so it was rather weird - but very wonderful - to get it to ourselves and romp up it in minutes. Nobody was around, so we skittered down the slab to the start, roped up, and I led to the top on my old 9mm in one giant pitch. It all took no more than five minutes, but was still hugely enjoyable as the east ridge is obviously wonderfully positioned - essentially a classic arete with huge juggy holds and a lot of space all round. Great views in all directions. After bringing up Vic, we abbed off, then headed straight back for the South Crack. I thought this would be dirty and rarely, if ever, climbed, but I was wrong: it is an excellent 30 metre pitch, a connoiseur's route up the In Pinn, steep but juggy and a very strong line. I then led to the top, again, and we abbed off the chain before the first guided party had even started. Two ascents of the In Pinn in less than an hour - a very cool start to the day! Time for lunch as we watched the guided parties go up, then it was the mouthwatering prospect of a northwards ridge traverse to An Dorus in spectacular conditions as cloud filled the valleys around Blaven. Easy walking along the airy ridge leads to a few steps and then the South Ridge of Banachdich, We took this direct which is exposed in places and leads to a couple of false summits before we finally moved left and enjoyed the simple scramble to the summit, which is quite different in character from most of the rest of the range. It is precipitous to the east, but a gentle ridge down to Glen Brittle meant that there were numerous walkers up here, one of the easiest Skye munros. Great views over the ridge, and a tricky section comes next, with the line not immediately obvious. A descent, then an awkward traverse over scree leads to a narrow gap before the excellent scramble up Sgurr Thormaid, an impressive peak from this angle. A small summit, then easier scrambling down towards the Three Teeth. These are passed surprisingly easily on the left, before the perfect scrambling up the sustained and splendid south-west ridge of Greadaidh. This is one of the narrowest sections of all higher up, with a knife-edge connecting the south summit with the main top. We took a diagonal line up to the crest, all brilliant, then the airy crest before a short chimney and a traverse regains the gap between the two summits. The northern side is simpler, with shelves leading past the 'wart' to a slabby descent. At the bottom, I knew a tricky wall lurked, because I chose to leave it in 2015 when it was soaking and the freezing wind howled through the gap of An Dorus. Today, it was still steep, but completely dry and a doddle to regain An Dorus. The descent was the same as 2015, after I'd climbed Mhadaidh in dreadful weather: tiresome screes lead to gentler slabs and then a delightful stream (and rehydration). The lower cwm was baking and tinder dry, and we were back for an earlier finish than yesterday.