Chkuthi and Zuruldi

Peaks: Kakhri (1952m), Zuruldi (2463m), Mentashi (2455m)
Area: Caucasus, Svaneti, Georgia
The sheer scale of the vertical intervals, combined with the altitude, had taken it out of me a bit. Shame, because I quite fancied trying to get up Pik Komsomol today, which I could see from my balcony. After another mammoth breakfast, courtesy of Nana at the guesthouse (chatting to two Spanish climbers this morning - they hadn't got up a single mountain in the two weeks they'd spent in Svaneti). The morning was stunning: crystal clear, and the air was cool as I took the tracks east of Mestia. The start of this route is shared with the famous Mestia-Ushguli four day trek, so several couples with ludicrously huge rucsacks were struggling upwards as I skipped past in my running shoes. Why anybody would do this these days is completely beyond me, with accommodation options everywhere and no obvious need for much equipment, but you see it all the time - I haven't a clue what they deem necessary. Anyway, the track gave way to delightful meadows and apple orchards, and the views up to the Chalaadi glacier and Ushba were predictably breath-taking, a wonderful backdrop which constantly stayed in view. After a steep section through forest, the path diverged, and I guessed the route to Chkuthi took a narrow path across a meadow to a lovely little ridge poised above a ridiculously scenic side valley. This led up towards Banguriani peak and was like something from a fantasy novel: autumnal colours in the woodland, little fields, some Svan farmers hay-baling with wooden sledges, rushing torrents. I continued upwards, not entirely sure of the onward route, and stopped to admire the view to Ushba. Round a corner to the end of the Chkuthi ridge at Kakhri, which guards the entrance to the Adishi valley. After gaining the ridge and views east, I descended all the way back to Mestia and took the cable car up to Hatsivali. Sadly the continuation chairlift up Zuruldi was broken, so a horrible track through the woods was in order. This was the lowpoint of the trip as I was tired and, unlike everything else I'd done, it was tedious and pointless. It just felt like an Alpine ski resort. At the top, however, was a ridge with low woodland and more delightful meadows. I walked eastwards to the highpoint (which is clearly not the mast

marked as Mentashi on the map). I sat on a little vantage point looking out towards Ushguli and Shkhara, which was mostly in the mist. Then it was back to Mestia for an enormous kubdari - a Svan speciality, basically a meat pie with various spices. Next day, it poured down without a break, and I headed away from Svaneti to Zugdidi.