Carreg Wastad

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Nant Peris

Routes: Skylon (HS 4b:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:sec), First Test (VS 4c:sec), Wrinkle (VD)

The longest lay-off I've ever had from proper climbing, so this was always going to be tricky. I remained passenger for most of the day and was happy to do so, partly because I've led all these routes in the past anyway and partly because I have very little upper body stamina at present. I followed Vic up the first pitch of Skylon, which I've led in the past - it is easy bar one or two tricky moves where the crack steepens. I then led the simple final pitch up slabby shelves. Crackstone Rib is probably the best Severe in Wales but I didn't feel up to leading even this familiar and easy classic. It is always wonderful though, with its slabby traverse left to the brilliant exposed step on to the rib and tiptoeing finish upwards. First Test is a little more obscure and takes a not-very-obvious line up the vague corner right of Wrinkle. If we got the route right, it gives good climbing with sharp incut holds and an unsurprising lack of polish. It steepens at a white wall with good moves to a big hold (I've never done it before, as far as I can remember). I led a bit of the last pitch of the very simple Wrinkle (last done 30 years ago!) but didn't even fancy that.