Wednesday, December 07, 2022

Great End/Glaramara

Peaks: Great End, Allen Crags, Glaramara
Area: Borrowdale, Lake District
The weather is getting colder: temperatures plummeted overnight, and it seemed a good idea to get above the snowline today, which was high. Gone was the cloud of the last two days: crystal clear and bitterly cold as I drove down towards Seathwaite, one of the finest spots in the Lakes. I was vaguely thinking of going up Gable via Base Brown, but in the event I missed the path and instead headed up the main valley towards Stockley bridge. From here, one path goes up to Styhead Tarn (I remember going up here to climb on Gable many years ago). I took the Grains Gill path towards Great End, which looms superbly ahead, staying in view throughout. It is famous for its winter gullies and was snow-covered today. Even better, as far as I can remember I have never been up it before. So it turned into the logical objective for the day. Grains Gill narrows towards the top and becomes a little gorge (Ruddy Gill). Some tricky verglas required caution. At the top, below Great End, I joined the familiar path up to Esk Hause (painful memories of the brutal climax of the Wasdale Fell race). At Esk Hause, the snow cover became thicker, lending a superb Alpine ambience to the route up the Cove. It took me a little while to realise this was the familiar route up Scafell Pike, it just seemed so different in the snow. I had no intention of continuing up the Pike today, so branched off at the col to take in the plateau-like summit of Great End. Superb conditions, nicely snow covered with deep blue skies, and I had it all to myself. Bowfell, Scafell Pike and Gable all glistening white. I trotted back to Esk Hause with the sun dazzling over Esk Pike and Bowfell, then took the long, lumpy continuation ridge over Glaramara. Again, I have done this hill before but many years ago (from Langstrath, I think). The first peak of Allen Crags is reached very quickly, but the rest is a surprisingly long haul over multiple false summits. It is a little like the Glyder ridge at the Capel end, just when you think it's over, it kicks up again. All delightful though, with little frozen tarns dotted around rock outcrops (hardly any snow at this level). The top of Glaramara is equally complex, with numerous mini summits dotted around. I located the highpoint and then began the descent to Seathwaite down frozen turf and very icy north-facing slopes. I soon found myself above Combe Gill, too far north, descending to Seatoller. So I corrected myself and contoured round to embark on the extremely steep and pathless direct descent to Seathwaite. Fabulous views to Gable and Skiddaw were some distraction, but this was a very steep descent, even by my standards. Tricky to regain the base of the valley. A very encouraging three days: although I didn't really run, I did move quickly with some light jogging, and felt no ill-effects although remaining conscious the virus is still with me. Around 3500m of ascent, so things can't possibly be too bad.

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