Massively popular, with hundreds if not thousands of tourists, but still a spectacular outing along the south-eastern peninsula of Madeira, taking in two small but sharp summits via the PR8. It was positively hot at some points today, and there is no shade on the route at all, apart from the palm trees at the cafe. Wonderful views back to the cloudy mountains and across the Atlantic in all directions, particularly where the peninsula narrows.
A self-indulgent journal of pointless adventures in mountain sports and all forms of distance running and racing.
Monday, February 27, 2023
Sunday, February 26, 2023
Pico Grande
Peaks: Pico Grande (1654m)
Area: Madeira
This was the mountain I most wanted to do on Madeira, a fine peak that occupies a very central position west of Saturday's high peaks. After an early breakfast, a complicated and very steep drive led straight up through several villages to the Boca da Corrida. Warm sunshine and wonderful views immediately, with the hidden Nun's Valley way down below and Pico Ruivo across the valley. Ahead, Pico Grande dominates, however, with its very distinctive summit tower. It proved far easier than I had expected, and I adopted a loping jog along the superb path leading to Encumeada. Two major obstacles block the path, the peaks of Pico do Cavalo and Pico de Serradinho, but the path weaves between them, contouring above the Nun's Valley at one point, then ducking through the gap: never too arduous however, and often almost level. At the Relvinha col, a major junction, so I took the eastwards path briefly before a more minor path climbed the hillside. It seemed fairly obvious that this would lead up Pico Grande, and it contours the hillside, fairly exposed, before curving back to the north-west. Thoroughly enjoyable throughout, and quite a distinctive landscape, quite different from Saturday. Open heathland with peaks emerging from an undulating plateau. The summit tower loomed ahead with some mist playing around. A sloping traverse right, then an easy scramble (chains) to a volcanic sandstone summit. A complete contrast to Saturday, I had the entire mountain to myself. I could just see down to Funchal as the mist parted. The return leg went equally smoothly and I was back at the car after 1:37 of effort (less than an hour for the climb to the summit). Back at a sunny hotel by 11am, leaving plenty of time left for a wonderful day exploring Funchal and Monte.
Saturday, February 25, 2023
Ribeiro Frio loop
Peaks: Chao das Freiteiras (1200m)
Area: Madeira
Not really a summit, more of a broad plateau, but it formed the highpoint of this delightful circuit from the beautiful hamlet of Ribeiro Frio, nestled amidst subtropical vegetation on the northern side of the watershed. 'Cold river' seemed appropriate in the early morning out of the sunshine, a chilly spot indeed, although by the time we had reached the side viewpoint of Balcoes via the Furado levada, we were in the sunshine for the spectacular views out over the Foja da Noguieara valley. Mist was rolling over the high summits of yesterday, but the view was still outstanding, and in the other direction lush valleys rolled down to the Atlantic with Porto Santo very clear. We then went back to the village and started on our first proper levada (although I had already done a brilliant 5 mile run along the local levada dos piornais from our hotel that morning). Initially, the river ran alongside, fast-flowing, then the tranquility of the trickling levada Portela took precedent. I had been on the hunt for the endemic Madeiran firecrest all day and finally located one (not easy!) about 1km down this track, lively but giving pleasingly diagnostic views. The levada got better and better, with views opening out through the dense cloud forest, down to the sea. To the right, side valleys, waterfalls and giant ferns. And all the time the flowing water, just delightful. A few little engineered tunnels and the occasional exposed section led to a sharp kink right and then a wonderful junction at a little bridge where two river valleys converge. After a break, watching the tame Madeiran chaffinches and enjoying the delightful ambience, we followed the steeper stream up a much more obscure (and far steeper) path alongside the Poco do Bezerro levada (the stream has the same name). Babbling water on both side, dappled shade, lush vegetation, and a lovely path. Kate was tiring a little, as the climb was fairly steep, but after 1000ft or so of ascent it emerges at an upland meadow with scattered broom: a total contrast. A short climb then leads to the Chao des Freiteiras plateau and great views down to the Atlantic and then across to the high peaks of yesterday, where grey cloud was rolling in. Some drizzle as we turned at some derelict buildings to take an ancient cobbled path down to the road (echoes of the stone paths of Mallorca here). A brisk downhill jog back to the car in Ribeiro Frio, and then a superb late lunch at the famous Abrigo do Poiso restaurant, a grand old place with a lovely atmosphere. By now it was pouring with rain, which made it even more special as we enjoyed caldo verde and espetada in front of a roaring fire.
Friday, February 24, 2023
Pico Ruivo and subpeaks
Peaks: Pico do Arieero (1818m), Pico Ruivo (1861m), Encumeada Alta (1760m)
Area; Madeira
In the late 1990s, Kate came with me on several moderate mountaineering expeditions overseas, summiting Swinica in the Polish Tatra, for example. Since then, not so much, so today - our 22nd anniversary - was doubly memorable. Although rammed with tourists, and not my usual cup of tea, this is such a fabulous outing that I was able to push the crowds and ironmongery to the back of my mind and just enjoy the scenery and situation. The route starts near the summit of Pico do Arieero, replete with cafe, and mist began to peel away from the summit as we arrived, revealing a mouth-watering array of peaks and pinnacles along the complex ridge leading to Ruivo, the Madeiran highpoint. Without the paths, waymarking and steps, this would make a stunning and fairly serious mountaineering expedition. With them, it's merely a tourist attraction. Still, the amount of descent in the first few km still suggested a longish day out, as it is an out-and-back course. A narrow arete leads to a catwalk and then the first major viewpoint: Ninho da Manta. I've seen some views in my time, but this is right up there, despite its accessibility and hordes of tourists. A deep cauldron, ever changing views in shifting mist, pinnacles rising above, impenetrable valleys plunging downwards - it is spectacular. Then comes a narrower arete, sensational views, followed by a long series of steep stepped descents and then the start of the tunnels at the Paso de Gato. This allows the complex ground west of Pico das Torres to be negotiated via dramatic contouring paths and more descending. The wind whistled through some of these gaps - and I saw a spectacled warbler. Ahead, Pico Ruivo, accessed by very steep steps, which reminded me of the Bukhansan range in Korea, steps allowing ordinary pedestrians to access difficult terrain. A very pronounced col is reached and then the terrain gets gentler, a rising series of zigzags on the east of Ruivo, completely different in character to the drama that precedes it (but still very scenic). The trees are all dead on this side, lending an eerie feel as the slopes are climbed - eventually reaching a charmingly situated refuge in a glade on top of a broad col. Kate could then relax! I jogged up to the top of Pico Ruivo, Madeira's highpoint, sadly in thick mist by now. Then another gentle jog down, before I decided to append an extra peak to the day - the obvious ridge/highpoint further to the east. This meant another jog towards Encumeada before taking a steep side path, wet and vegetated, that I'd seen from the col. This led to a rock band and some chains, mild scrambling, to a huge summit plateau. I think, from pictures, these chains might have formed part of a 'vertical kilometre' running event held fairly recently. The highpoint of this peak is pronounced, despite the plateau, marked by a large pillar - and yet the name of the peak is not obvious. Research suggests it is Encumeada Alta. Whatever, views were superb - right down to the north coast, the Atlantic and Porto Santo, and across to the jagged peaks we had just traversed. An easy jog back to Kate, who had now finished her coffee! The return leg was equally atmospheric, with mist now swirling around. It got quite cold after the tunnels with thick mist and a sharp wind. Kate was tiring a little towards the top of Pico Areeiro, which is a considerable climb back out. Still, our moving time was much less than three hours for the entire outing, which is fairly respectable including the extra peak (16k/1250m). We recovered with a sandwich at the cafe before driving back down to Funchal.
Sunday, February 19, 2023
Bala double
Over 20 years ago, I ran Ras Llyn Tegid, which used to be a well-known race looping around Bala Lake (in fact, I think dad ran it too, even earlier!). That race is long-since defunct, which is a shame but not all that surprising as although the outward leg is quiet, the homeward leg along the north shore main road is far too busy. My idea was to motivate myself to do a trial long road run to see if my 12th London Marathon scheduled for April is still on the cards, and do it somewhere nice. Broadly, I concluded that it is still on, as I felt surprisingly good today despite the fact that the last long run I did was actually the London Marathon itself last October! My illness prevented me keeping it ticking over. The far side of the lake through Llangower to Llanuwchllyn is a delight, peaceful and scenic with a little mist over Arenig but ideal conditions: mild and calm. Through Llanuwchllyn and then the busier homeward leg, which has a newly built path keeping you away from the road to Glanllyn. I completed the clockwise loop in 67 minutes, had a gel and drink from my car, then continued through Bala to add on a much hillier second loop from Llanfor up the draining climb to Rhiwlas. This was new terrain for me, and the 400ft climb (although tarmac) is pretty savage! Great views, and then a fast descent which came out by the bridge in Bala: 16 miles all at a reasonable 4.15/km pace.
Saturday, February 18, 2023
Ruthin parkrun
'Race': Ruthin parkrun
Time/Position: 17.59 (1st from 79)
This was pleasing, the fastest I have run since October, so a nice hint that regaining last year's lost form might not be a completely forlorn hope. It is a very flat, fast course, but some of that is mitigated by at least six very tight 180 degree turns. Unusually for a parkrun, it is all tarmac too, looping round the memorial fields near Ruthin's football ground. I never felt entirely comfortable, but never in distress either, certainly something to build on.
Sunday, February 12, 2023
Windy Hill fell race
Race: Windy Hill fell race (12m/2200ft)
Time/Position: 1.40.51 (25th from 219)
A fell race through a landscape familiar to tens of millions of people, Windy Hill crosses the busy M62 a grand total of four times. I have often looked out at this rather bleak landscape on the Yorkshire/ Lancashire border, but although I have raced just a little further north several times (Blackstone Edge, Haworth Hobble, Heptonstall), I'd never done this before. It was a brilliant outing, perfect for me as my recovery continues. From the HQ in the characterful Ram's Head, the race starts downhill to the Piethorne reservoir before taking gently rising tracks over Tunshill lane, crossing under the motorway to rugby fields on the edge of Hollingworth Then it curves back round and heads north over the motorway to long and fast contouring tracks leading to Lydgate and a junction with the Blackstone Edge race (memorable for being one of the first to restart after the 2021 lockdown). I remembered the climb alongside the Halifax road, although today's route was far more satisfying, going all the way up the Roman Road to the Aggin stone on top of the ridge. Awkward terrain then led south along Blackstone Edge itself with hazy views over Greater Manchester - a mixture of gritstone, tussocks and peat - although generally conditions were excellent as it has been dry recently, cool with high cloud. Eventually the M62 is crossed for the 4th and final time over the Pennine Way bridge, then flags lead to the mast on top of Windy Hill. A long undulating descent over the hills visible from the motorway to finally retrace steps, including (of course) the inevitable final climb back to the finish at the Ram's Head, a tiring conclusion. From a personal perspective, this was an ideal race today - long enough and runnable enough to be a good tester, without ever feeling the need to really push it. Interesting and enjoyable throughout.
Friday, February 10, 2023
Tal y Fan
Peaks: Tal y Fan
Area: Carneddau
The weather was far better than the forecast this morning, so I could have been more ambitious than just plodding up Tal y Fan. That said, time was limited and the ancient tracks south from Sychnant have always been right up there on my list of favourite places. A headwind made life tricky today but conditions were almost springlike with milky cloud and even a tiny bit of sunshine. I went via the quarry to gain the ridge, then headed north from the summit to loop round back to the quarry for a fast descent along the Pen race route (1:20).
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