Area: Madeira
Not really a summit, more of a broad plateau, but it formed the highpoint of this delightful circuit from the beautiful hamlet of Ribeiro Frio, nestled amidst subtropical vegetation on the northern side of the watershed. 'Cold river' seemed appropriate in the early morning out of the sunshine, a chilly spot indeed, although by the time we had reached the side viewpoint of Balcoes via the Furado levada, we were in the sunshine for the spectacular views out over the Foja da Noguieara valley. Mist was rolling over the high summits of yesterday, but the view was still outstanding, and in the other direction lush valleys rolled down to the Atlantic with Porto Santo very clear. We then went back to the village and started on our first proper levada (although I had already done a brilliant 5 mile run along the local levada dos piornais from our hotel that morning). Initially, the river ran alongside, fast-flowing, then the tranquility of the trickling levada Portela took precedent. I had been on the hunt for the endemic Madeiran firecrest all day and finally located one (not easy!) about 1km down this track, lively but giving pleasingly diagnostic views. The levada got better and better, with views opening out through the dense cloud forest, down to the sea. To the right, side valleys, waterfalls and giant ferns. And all the time the flowing water, just delightful. A few little engineered tunnels and the occasional exposed section led to a sharp kink right and then a wonderful junction at a little bridge where two river valleys converge. After a break, watching the tame Madeiran chaffinches and enjoying the delightful ambience, we followed the steeper stream up a much more obscure (and far steeper) path alongside the Poco do Bezerro levada (the stream has the same name). Babbling water on both side, dappled shade, lush vegetation, and a lovely path. Kate was tiring a little, as the climb was fairly steep, but after 1000ft or so of ascent it emerges at an upland meadow with scattered broom: a total contrast. A short climb then leads to the Chao des Freiteiras plateau and great views down to the Atlantic and then across to the high peaks of yesterday, where grey cloud was rolling in. Some drizzle as we turned at some derelict buildings to take an ancient cobbled path down to the road (echoes of the stone paths of Mallorca here). A brisk downhill jog back to the car in Ribeiro Frio, and then a superb late lunch at the famous Abrigo do Poiso restaurant, a grand old place with a lovely atmosphere. By now it was pouring with rain, which made it even more special as we enjoyed caldo verde and espetada in front of a roaring fire.
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