Dinara (Sinjal)

Peaks: Dinara (1831m)

Area: Dinaric Alps, Croatia

My lengthy detour to Knin was centred around the grand massif of Dinara, which includes the Croatian highpoint but also represents a scenic contrast with the Velebit as it sprawls along the Bosnian border. Rather than the distinctive rocky landscape of Velebit, Dinara's character is more subtle - broad ridges and broken limestone faces. After breakfast at Slatki Snovi, a short drive led through Kijevo to the roadhead at Glavas, close to the Bosnian border. From here, the summit is invisible and I knew I was in for a long haul of 8-9k over a fearsome vertical interval. The old fortress at Glavas is gained quite quickly, a spectacular location which once controlled this border route, then a pleasant open valley which was a tad cooler after a very humid start. The unpromisingly named peak of Slime, on the border, was draped in cloud, which was a bit worrying, as were towering clouds over Kalun to the south. In the event, though, there was nothing to worry about and it remained a far better day than yesterday - which was lucky, Above the valley, a spring, and then a traverse through rough limestone to high pastures (some ruined enclosures) and then a shallow ridge of limestone. This is a steep and tiring climb and leads to the crags of Osjak, which lend the mountain a dramatic rocky west face which I could see from the balcony in Knin. The route then levels off through a series of green, grassy hollows, one of which contains the Grubac hut, a superbly equipped open bothy which it would have been nice to have stayed in. From here, the rest of the route was excellent - really enjoyable. I could see Knin far below, the crags of Osjak lent some definition to the broad ridge that bent round to the distant summit. It was reminiscent of the Carneddau, and in places the ridge narrowed and became very well defined, easy going on limestone. Cloud was drifting in and out, adding some atmosphere. I past a couple, the first people I had seen, but remained mindful of the distance and relative remoteness, solo, all day. The climbing keeps coming though, and a forepeak finally gives access to the true summit - marked by a tiny 'pillbox'. Superb views, although intermittent cloud interfered to an extent. The range stretches out across the Bosnian side, wild and remote. The crags lead down to Knin. All delightfully open and airy. I should have gone down a different way, but instead I retraced steps - still enjoyable, although close to 17k and well over 1600m of climbing (close to 1900m according to the Garmin, which can't be correct). I stopped at the hut for a break (it had a well but actually I'd carried enough, along with the spring in the valley). Back in Glavas, I had a bite to eat then headed back to Knin for some relaxation before the family's arrival tomorrow morning.