Area: Ilha Grande, Brazil
After three days in Rio, I headed off to Ilha Grande, still in Rio state but an immense contrast with the chaotic metropolis (Brazilian states are enormous). The entire Costa Verde on the adjacent mainland is beautiful and mountainous, and this theme continues on the island (half an hour by speedboat from the little coastal town of Conceicao do Jacarei). Arrival is into the small settlement of Vila do Abraao, the liveliest place on the island but still a tranquil spot, as there are no metalled roads or cars anywhere on Ilha Grande. The journey took some time (at least four hours) so I spent yesterday relaxing and was raring to go first thing in the morning, and it was a stunning start weatherwise, deep blue sky and a light breeze. A long switchbacking track for around a mile leads to the start of the narrow trail through the rainforest (perhaps not strictly defined, but the closest realistic description). This was a fairly extraordinary experience, mildly intimidating at first as I had no idea how well travelled the route was initially. For all I knew it may have been rarely ascended. Lots of birdsong, although most species remained elusive at first. The forest was very dense and the humidity quickly became stifling, in fact almost unbearably so where the trail steepened - which was often. A gorgeous little stream valley, chattering clear water, provided some relief. After about 40 minutes of effort, a runner descended past me, instantly setting my mind at ease about the route's popularity. That said, there was no way I could have even considered anything more than fast walking in this humidity. Above, I could see sunshine dappling the trees and after an awkward bouldery traverse the route kinked and it was clear I was on a broad ridge - even though the forest was so dense I still had no views at all. The humidity dropped noticeably at this point, a blessed relief, although it remained hot. I began to sense the summit was near and eventually spied a giant anvil-like rock feature that marks the true summit and gives the peak its name ('parrot'). At this precise point the route becomes unclear for the first time. I took the side path initially (which in retrospect was the correct one) before having second thoughts and taking a very steep direct route up to a clean granite slab and, finally, views out across the sea and over to the mainland. In the humidity, all was shimmering, the peaks of what I assume is the Serra d'Agua suspended above a soft-focused Atlantic. Unbroken pristine forest in every direction. I climbed the slab up to a wall, and then retreated. I later found this was just a few metres away from the circuitous, indirect route taken by the standard path I had missed. A far more comfortable descent, past a friendly nine-banded armadillo and a possible grey-cowled wood rail. A breeze made life a little more comfortable and the crystal blue sky later clouded over for my afternoon birdwatching ramble, 5k through the forest towards Palmas, returning at the col after seeing coati and numerous new bird species including various tanagers, woodcreepers, and a probable (stupendous) black hawk-eagle. Refuelled with a caipirinha and moqueca fish stew.
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