Area: Tijuca National Park, Brazil
Supposedly one of the world's highest mountains rising 'directly from the ocean' but I fear that is a bit of local parochialism (it would even be challenged by certain Skye peaks). Whatever, it gave a superb outing at the start of my Brazilian trip, and also a truly memorable view from the summit. It is nowhere near as internationally famous as the Sugarloaf or Corvovado (Christ the Reedemer) but it is much higher than both, and looks very impressive from the famous beach of Ipanema, the first place I went to on arrival in Rio. Pedra da Gavea is right out in the southern suburbs of Rio, bordering the national park of Tijuca, pristine forest and one of the world's largest 'urban' national parks. I adapted to the excellent Rio metro immediately, and took it to its endpoint at the Jardim Oceanico. From here, a brisk 2k along the road and across the Muzema (I think) river lead to houses in the district of Joa and a steep climb which led to an initial checkpoint. Above, steep Flemish style cobbles led up to a more formal checkpoint, which was just opening as I arrived at 8am, a huge stroke of luck. Another world is immediately entered, a thick forest canopy with breadfruit hanging from the trees and brown capuchins in the trees. Above, a small party of coatis broke cover and moved quickly into the undergrowth. In the canopy, numerous bird species although as ever tropical birding is a rather frustrating experience. It was superb, and the sun broke through the canopy as I climbed. I overtook some early starters although a runner passed me too (I was going at a brisk walking pace, not really running). It was humid but not unbearable. The route continues steeply to reach an awkward slab and then a sort of rocky stream gully with running water. It eventually emerges at a clearing (the Mirante da Lage) with a view of the gigantic monolithic peak marking the main western summit directly above. The route then opens out slightly and the angle eases as the path curves eastwards towards the sea and below the giant rock walls. Then a plinth gave an outstanding view landward to Tijuca, pristine forest and a wonderful landscape. A little higher, and an even better view, with the terminating rock wall framing a dramatic view down to Rio as the mist cleared below. I could see right across to the distant Corcovado with Christ the Redeemer emerging from the tendrils of mist. At the end of this section I finally reached the locally notorious Carrasquierra, a 40 metre slab. This has a crack running down its length but is more broken on the right, where I took it. I was surprised by the fact that two or three moves were genuinely tricky, perhaps grade 3 scrambling in British terms although not particularly exposed despite the fact that the Atlantic Ocean stretched out to infinity below. Open cracks and polished holds, all very reminiscent of Tryfan Bach! Mist was flirting around as the angle eased at the top, but behind a staggering view down through the clouds to the little peninsula of Guaratiba and the town of Vargem Grande (perhaps). The path narrows and continues on a slightly exposed traverse line through thick vegetation above the ocean. After the traverse it climbs again steeply through ancient tree routes up an open gully with more easy scrambling to finally gain the plateau-like summit, characterised by low vegetation. The little green bushes (bromeliads?) on black sand strongly recalled the Canary Islands, far away across the Atlantic! I went up to the sharp rock at the eastern summit, then gently down to the open plinth that most people take photos from. This is a truly staggering spot, poised directly above Sao Conrado beach and the peak of Morro dos Irmaos (looking tiny from above) which guards the end of Ipanema, which I could also see. Ahead, the vast Atlantic, and just inland and over the ridge the endless sprawl of Rio across all of its hills, truly the Cidade Maravilhosa. I was a little concerned about descending the Carrasquierra with crowds coming up, so headed back down. It was fine, with one small group of five coming up. The rest of the descent was simple and I took it nice and easy, saving energy. I took a slightly different route back across to Muzema and back to the metro, where I refuelled with guaravita and a palm heart and chicken empadinha.
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