Glittertind

Peaks: Glittertind (2452m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Once upon a time, Glittertind competed with neighbouring Galdhoppigen for the title of the highest mountain in Scandinavia (and northern Europe). Now, however, it is decisively second, as the summit ice-cap has melted in recent years. It made an obvious objective from the Glitterheim hut, which lies below it, although the weather this morning was much worse than the forecast (unlike yesterday, which turned out better than the dreadful forecast suggested). It is a vast, bulky peak, and the cloud base was low although views over the atmospheric lake of Nedre Steinbuvann were superb, with mist draping the high mountain cwm that contains it. Glittertind is a fair old slog up bouldery moraine material, and the wet weather didn't help. It was never especially heavy though, and higher up the SE ridge becomes better defined with misty views over the northern and eastern glaciers which remain pretty extensive. I wasn't feeling as sharp as usual and it took two hours to get to the rather bleak summit, marked by a couple of wooden planks. An unusual experience followed, as I had to do quite a lot of admin and route planning (because I had a signal for the first time since Gjendesheim, there was nothing at the hut). This took a while, and I was pretty cold by the time I'd finished! After all the logistics, I stuck to 'plan a' again, and descended back to the Glitterheim hut rather than traversing to Spiterstulen. Also, because of the weather, I opted not to extend the route to Riggehoe, which was definitely the right decision as, if anything, the weather worsened as I descended. By the time I reached the lake it was raining fairly heavily, which was a shame as I really wanted to explore it and have lunch there. I did this anyway, but it was a bit soggy. Still a spectacular location though.

Gjendesheim hut-Glitterheim hut

Peaks: Vestre Hestlaegerhoe (1758m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

After yesterday's aperitif, the main business began here in light rain and low cloud. This was always forecast to be the worst day of weather, to the point that I seriously considered changing my plans and just getting the boat to Gjendebu. In the event though, I stuck to 'plan a', as some kind of clearance seemed likely after midday. After a very nice breakfast, I started from Gjendesheim in light rain: the route starts to climb immediately up to the first pass and junction with the very popular Bessegen ridge. Some stunning views over Gjende and the cloud-draped walls of Besseggen, until I entered the clag at the pass. Even this was atmospheric though, with crags looming out of the mist on the left. The rain was fairly light, and there was very little wind (and it was quite mild) so my weather 'rules' complied. Quite suddenly, the outflow of Bessvatnet lake appeared just below the cloudbase. I crossed a little bridge and then the route gently descended through wild terrain until a spectacular clearance saw Nautgardstinden appear above the clouds. A wet descent led to the huge lake of Russvatnet, which would become quite familiar over the next few days. Another suspension bridge crossed the rapids of Saubue which led down a beautiful valley to the east, and two or three huts along the shoreline (Russvassbue). The route hugged the banks of the lake for a while before starting to climb up a shallow stream valley to a rickety monkey bridge over a small gorge. I had a snack here, and a tiny hint of sunshine peeked through the clouds as the ramparts of mighty Besshoe across the lake appeared through tendrils of mist. Above this, I made the biggest mistake of the trip, opting to follow the marked Blatjonn route to Glitterheim rather than the steeper Tjonnholae 'shortcut' which would have made for a more satisfying tour (because the marked route took in more of the terrain I would have to repeat on the return journey). It wasn't a big problem though, as this takes in some memorable and spectacular terrain. I contoured the hillside as the rain began again and eventually gained the vast bouldery plateau with huge views up to the eastern peaks and cwms of Surtningssue, a massive and complex massif. The plateau is an extraordinary place, high-up, awkward underfoot and very atmospheric. No doubt the standard route comes this way because there isn't that much elevation gain required to access the key pass, the Hestlaegerhoe. It is tiring through, because of the rocky terrain, and I suspect some people really struggle here (conversations at the hut suggested that was indeed the case). I felt OK, although I'd covered 20k or so, and decided to nip up to the side peak of Vestre Hestlaegerhoe which was just above, partly because the weather was clearing again. This was the lower of two rounded, minor summits either side of the key pass. The rock was mossy and untravelled but I got to the cairn easily and then descended back to the pass: it was, as ever, satisfying to take in a summit, even a minor one. The terrain continues rocky and awkward down Hestbekken to the stunning valley of the Veo river, the Glitterheim hut nestled at the base. Above, Glittertind itself was emerging from the mist, my target for tomorrow. To the left, at the top of this magnificent wild valley was Leirhoe, still glaciated. It was now brighter again, and in some ways I didn't want to reach the hut! It is highly circuitous to get to anyway, because of the amount of water and braided river channels throughout this valley (24k/1100m, just over five hours). A relaxing afternoon and evening followed before a stupendous meal of cured trout, reindeer heart sausage, carpaccio, and much more. It rained all night but I was cosily ensconced by then.

Knutshoe

Peaks: Knutshoe (1517m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Knutshoe is a perfect miniature mountain which gave an ideal start to my Jotunheimen trip. This was my return to the Norwegian mountains after 35 years away. My university expeditions to Okstinden in 1989 and 1991 had an enormous impact on me, it's probably not an exaggeration to say that in many ways they changed my life. I assumed I would return to Norway regularly, but I suppose I was lured away by many other (cheaper) mountain ranges worldwide. So the return was long overdue, particularly as it is so easy to get to the Jotunheimen, making it ridiculous that this was my first visit. After weeks of glorious weather, I was unlucky in the sense that the weather changed when I arrived. In fact persistent rain was forecast from around 5pm, so as soon as I saw Knutshoe from the Oslo bus, free of cloud and sitting in the landscape as a perfect little ridge, I asked the driver to drop me off at Vargebakken, and then it was straight into it at around 2pm. Cloud draped the higher Bessegen ridge across Lake Gjende and was very threatening over the bigger peaks to the west, but Knutshoe remained clear. The little birch trees, lichen and juniper immediately bought memories flooding back and I immediately felt at home in the landscape. The route is level for a while and then comes the first rise to gain the long ridge which forms the mountain. This is the steepest part of the entire route and actually has a couple of tricky scrambling moves, perhaps even grade 2 or 3, up a sort of open book groove below a steep wall. It doesn't last long and gives way to a broad ridge up which I made quick progress, trying to get up before the rain, which now seemed inevitable. It goes up and down a bit to gain a final forepeak before a descent. Then comes the last steep scramble on good rock, really enjoyable, to the true summit. Extraordinary views down to Ovre Leirungen, a turqouise lake and valley which feeds into the famous Lake Gjende, which I could also see. The ambience was stunning with black clouds draped around the higher peaks, plunging waterfalls, the two lakes, and across to big interior peaks like Storend. The modern description for this is 'epic', probably apt in this instance, and I couldn't believe it has taken me 35 years to come back. It started to rain as soon as I started the descent but never developed beyond light showers, meaning the tricky downclimb was fine with a bit of thought. At the base I had to get to Gjendesheim so took a side path through boggy birch woodland and a path along the eastern banks of Nedre Leirungen with perfect views back to Knutshoe. I had to regain the road where the Sjoe river feeds into the Gjende, exhilarating meltwater, to loop back to the packed Gjendesheim hut where I had to spend the night on a sofa in the lower lounge after feasting on superb reindeer stew. It rained heavily from 5pm, incredibly atmospheric views from the hut across the black lake.

Bochlwyd climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Bochlwyd

Routes: Wall Climb (HS 4b:sec), Arete and Slab (D:led), One Pitch Route (VS 4c:sec), Chimney Climb Direct (HS 4b:sec), Two Pitch Route (S:sec)

A venue I have visited many times, but even though I was largely just a passenger again today I did a couple of variations I don't think I've done before. Peter kicked off with Wall Climb in disappointing weather: cool, almost cold, and unexpectedly windy. It gives a great pitch, quite stiff for the grade, which I remembered fairly well although it must be decades since I led it. A ramp goes left to a steep wall with some great climbing on sharp holds up to a ledge. Above this, after a steep crux pull the angle eases. Nice pitch, windy throughout but Peter was experimenting with mini walkie-talkies which worked really well. I then led the easy Arete and Slab which I've done many times before, including solo, up a steep crack on enormous holds to the slabbier finish. I don't think I've ever done One Pitch Route before, and enjoyed following Peter up it. Essentially an eliminate, it goes up to Marble Slab before sidling leftwards along a horizontal crack to a short and surprisingly technical crux with little for the feet. After lunch we got on the old Eryri classic, Chimney Climb. I hate to think how long ago I did this with Tim: 35 years perhaps? It was so dry that Peter did the direct version, which goes up a black, mossy crack - presumably usually horribly damp but today dry and climbable. It gives a steep layback to the ledge, after which an awkward steep move over the obstruction leads to the easier upper chimney - I remembered this from all those years ago. Finally, we did the mild severe Two Pitch Route which I've done many times before.

Crewe parkrun

'Race': Crewe parkrun

Time/Position: 18.47 (8th from 432)

Eight hours in Crewe: does it get any better? This kicked the day off and was an encouraging performance by recent standards, particularly given my lack of current mileage. Queens Park in Crewe is delightful, it must be one of the most scenic urban parks in the region, and the parkrun takes three laps of it. It is tight and twisting, with a few little climbs, but all on tarmac paths. I worked my way up the field after a quickish first lap and felt reasonably good until the sprint finish, which was a little way beyond where I expected it to be! After breakfast I then headed off for a bike ride to Mow Cop, incorporating the killer mile. I was a minute slower than my 'on foot' time recorded in March and - unlike the Cheshire Cat sportive in 2011 - I failed to do it one go and essentially chickened out of the ludicrously steep section near where the pub used to be. In the 2011 sportive I did stay upright on my triple and have a medal and photo to show for it! I then rode back via Kidsgrove, where I got lost in a council estate, and then an awful short section of the A500 before getting to Barthomley and back to Crewe Green in time for the football, part three of the Crewe day.

Holt to Horseshoe 75k

A nice way of incorporating the Alpine-style ascent of the Horseshoe from Llangollen via a long warm-up. A very long warm-up really, from home to Holt and then south to Cross Lanes via a closed road and the continuation along Kiln Lane to Eyton. From here, the character changes as the route heads west to Johnstown and Ruabon before heading to Llangollen. I had a cheese pastie and then despatched the climb, which didn't go as well as it should have done given my Alpine training! Home via Bwlchgwyn and Cefn y Bedd.

St Asaph 90k loop

Another variant on the Tour de Flintshire concept, although this one contained substantial chunks of Denbighshire! I will have to work a Flanders-style 'Ronde' maximising the climbs one day. This morning I rode to Mold via Padeswood, then Peter joined me for the climb through Cadole and up to Penbarras from the gentle side (unlike my trials up the other side last week). This is still quite steep towards the top, and the descent is so steep that it isn't very relaxing with my skinny tyres. Below, the Vale of Clwyd looked more like Almeria with baked yellow fields throughout. We rode along the quiet lanes through Gellifor and Llandyrnog to Bodfari, where we went out seperate ways: Peter back to Mold and me to St Asaph. I put in a bit of an effort from Trefnant crossroads to St Asaph cathedral - 6.04 at 32.6km/h, but I was held up at the lights to be fair so most of it was 36km/h which by my standards is good. A lovely lunch in St Asaph was perfect fuelling for the return up Rhuallt hill to the quiet lanes through Babell and Halkyn, descending to Mold and home via Pontblyddyn.

Carreg y Foel Gron

Crag: Carreg y Foel Gron, Moelwynion

Routes: Shark's Fin (HS 4b:sec), Slab Direct (E1 5a:sec), Too Many Children (VS 4c:sec), Elephant's Walk Direct (HS 4b:sec), Skinny Arete (VD:led)

I was passenger for most of the day today, for several very good reasons. It is a nice venue, I remember playing around on this crag a few years ago with a shunt and maybe some soloing. We went to the upper tier first, where Peter led the obvious plum line of the Shark's Fin. If this was two or three times longer it would be a total classic. As it is, a shuffle up and right gains the arete which is climbed in a lovely position. It is much easier than it looks. The upper tier has a delightful tranquil atmosphere, with views of the central Moelwynion, and the rock is perfect: rough, unpolished and wonderfully textured. Slab Direct was also good with some tricky finishing moves straight up the obvious feature (which gets steep at the top). A lovely VS crackline finished our business here, another route which would be a famous classic if only it was longer. The lower tier is far more popular and often has groups on it. The rock is still excellent and rough though, and the direct on Elephant's Walk gave a great pitch which I may have done before: wonderful holds and pleasant cracks. Finally, I led the easy but enjoyable line of Skinny Arete which goes up a very gentle slab before pulling comfortably on to a steeper but short final ridge. Plenty of time for a pint in the Albion before collecting Kate.

Alderford Lake parkrun

'Race': Alderford Lake parkrun

Time/Position: 18.59 (3rd from 196)

An unexpected V55 age group course record, probably due to perfect underfoot conditions rather than any kind of 'speed'! It is a lovely course, two laps around a delightfully tranquil tree-lined lake - a bit like a more scenic version of Park in the Past. As we are in a drought, the ground is rock hard so although this course is all off-road (grass and dusty paths) and quite tortuous I was able to maintain a decent pace, at least on the first lap. It is the 257th running of this parkrun so the course record was a surprise. Another beautiful sunny morning, not too hot.

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach

Routes: Agent Orange (f5c:led), Silly A55 Arete (f6a+:sec), Jack A55 Slab (f4c:led)

For completion.

Clwydian climbs ride

It has been many years since I did the fearsome Old Bwlch from Llanbedr DC. It is undoubtedly one of the hardest climbs in the region, and more or less the exact opposite of the Galibier (which I did exactly three weeks ago). I thought it would be bleakly comic to mark that three week anniversary by doing a climb that it is ten times shorter, far less glamorous, and twice as steep! I took the Padeswood lanes to get to Mold, then the climbing diversion to avoid the main road through Rhydymwyn and then the standard Moel Arthur climb from Nannerch. This was despatched in 14 minutes, not too terrible, and then came the steep descent down to the Vale. From here, a gentle spin along to Llanbedr before starting the climb up Penbarras. This is straight and steep, and gets steeper once the houses are left behind. It then rears up intimidatingly, reaching a savage 20% for 100 metres until a cattle grid and the famed 25% hairpin bend. This is a real fight, but marks the end of the hardest riding, giving way to a more standard finish. Again, this kicks up to 14% at the end. I reached Penbarras in 16 minutes, which is two minutes slower than my running time for the same climb from the village set just a few months ago! Fast descending to Mold, then through Pontblyddyn to Rhyddyn hill and home: 56k/1000m. 

Buckley handicap

The usual hilly 5k course over the tracks from the main Famau car park. Slower than previous runnings, predictably enough, but this still felt like a useful session with tired legs after a hard ride yesterday and the fell race on Wednesday. Andy, Jez and I all finished in about the same time, but I just edged third place with 21.28 or so. By rights you should always finish mid-table in a handicap I always feel, otherwise you've been economical with the truth!

Conwy-Shordley 85k

An indirect route from Conwy to home via the Vale of Clwyd and a nice variant on the linear routes I have done a few times over the years. Some drizzle, the first for weeks, but this had eased by the time I had breakfast and then there was a light tailwind that meant I was pretty quick as soon as I reached the prom in Colwyn Bay. All the way to Rhyl and a quick mechanical fix for my pedals, and then through the west of the town to St Asaph, around 35kph from Rhuddlan. Lovely lunch and then it was down the Vale of Clwyd all the way to Ruthin before heading towards the Shelf. This is a well-known climb but it has been years since I did it, perhaps as many as 20? It isn't easy to find, but I did and some memory of it kicked in. I was going OK after my Alpine exploits but there was a council trailer stuck half way up which meant I had to dismount and climb a mud bank! It is a long climb by local standards, perhaps 6k with 300m of elevation, something like that, and is very narrow and deformed in places: a bigger contrast with an iconic TdF col would be hard to imagine. Then it is mostly downhill to Llandegla, through to Bwlchgwyn and then down to Cefn y Bedd and home: 85k/1200m.

Ponderosa

Race: Ponderosa hill race

Time/Position: 31.59 (16th from 73 [1st V55])

By far my slowest ever time at this event, but given that I'm only running a few miles a week and haven't raced properly since the Castles relay, I was pleased enough with this little outing. I felt it was short enough to run without harming my heel, although the race is mostly about the descent - and it is extremely dry as we are now officially in drought. I got to the top of Cyrn y Brain in a conservative 10 minutes or so and then got caught behind a group of three on the very narrow paths that characterise the long descent on this race. These are always exhilarating and I knew Simon would be close behind. He was, but I just about stayed ahead on the final climb back to the Ponderosa.

Four counties 100k ride

Keen to build on the small amount of cycling fitness gained during the trip, this was perhaps the first time I've ever ridden to Whitchurch from home. I took the usual route through Rossett to Holt with a slight tailwind, feeling very comfortable indeed. Then the lanes through Tilston to Malpas, but continuing along similarly quiet lanes - very possibly new to me - all the way to Whitchurch (and therefore Shropshire). From here I should have gone south to Hanmer but instead took the road towards Bangor. This was busier than I'd expected so I retreated to the lanes north to Tallwrn Green. The problem with these lanes is that they rarely go where you want them to! I used distant Hope Mountain as an unlikely navigation tool and eventually emerged between Worthenbury and Bangor - more familiar territory which will, for me, always be associated with my 50 mile covid lockdown solo ultra. As with that day, I stopped at the little shop for a sarnie, then continued further south into the English Maelor past the racecourse with a sharp climb to Overton (now the headwind came into play). The road was closed at the Dee bridge near Erbistock but I was allowed to pass and then quite enjoyed the little climbs to Ruabon. From here I rode into Wrexham and then out to the north on an extension to Dodleston and Broughton, in order to tick off my first 100k ride of the year. Almost exactly four hours/100k/1000m elevation. A really enjoyable spin in decent conditions, not too hot but with a nagging moderate westerly.

PitP parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 19.07 (3rd from 199)

This went to form, in the sense that I'm doing very little running (and zero training) at present, but it was still slightly annoying not to go under 19. This is almost a minute slower than my course PB which remains the V55 course record. Perfect conditions this morning, as we are now in a full drought and this course really benefits from dry conditions. Dust clouds and quite warm already. I've been a bit tired all week following the rigours of the big trip.

Leinpfad parkrun

'Race': Leinpfad parkrun (Merzig)

Time/Position: 18.58 (2nd from 98)

The final piece in the complex three-week planning jigsaw, another German parkrun vaguely en route home. After the Tour stage, I was held up by roadworks and also a fairly complex route round Strasbourg to the German border. But I slept pretty well in the van despite parking in Merzig train station! In fact, the stadtpark (venue for the parkrun) had loads of parking and would have been perfect. I had a small but delightful breakfast at the very popular Tinnes bakery and then really enjoyed the friendly parkrun. I went better than expected after the rigours of the last week (last three weeks really!). It was a complex route from the park north to a little pond and mini zoo with animals, then back along the towpath it is named after, along the banks of the Saar. I couldn't catch the chap in front, but watched his movements closely as it wasn't always obvious where the route went. I broke the V55 course record fairly comfortably, somewhat surprising given it had been going for well over 300 weeks. The warm-down was equally memorable, crossing into Luxembourg for a delightful pootle through the Moselle vineyards from Remerschen and Schengen (a famous name indeed). Even better, I ended with a swim in the wonderful Baggerweier, removing a great deal of filth before the long final drive home.

Ballon d'Alsace

A perfectly planned trip to watch a key Tour stage and, as a bonus, do another iconic Vosges climb. The nomenclature hereabouts is famously confusing: I'd done the Grand Ballon on the way down. This was just the Ballon, which is generally agreed to be the first mountain ever climbed by the Tour. After a luxury night in Besancon, I was recharged, particularly because I dined on a knepfle and munster gratin, another heavy Alsatian lunch! My plan was to head up the climb from the east, convenient for the journey home, and for the stage as the riders were heading up it from the north. I parked in Oberbruck and took the cycle path to Sewen and the start of the climb. I packed a rucsac, ready for a longish wait, and luckily the climb is a fairly easy one. Some hairpins lead above Sewen to the Lac d'Alfeld. This is, I think, the name of the valley the route then takes a big loop around. Or it might be the Langenberg, I'm not sure (could be just the usual Alsatian blend of languages). Anyway, after a few steep sections the angle eases and I powered up (by my standards), passing a fair number of other cyclists en route to watch too. It took me a while and a bit of moving around to get to the best viewing place - the Ballon being a huge plateau really. It was a brilliant stage with the field completely fragmented and the weather just about stayed dry. The descent was fairly extraordinary, hundreds (perhaps even thousands) of cyclists pelting downhill (almost all far faster than me) after watching a classic stage in the world's greatest race.

Crete de la Neige

Peaks: Le Reculet (1717m), Crete de la Neige (1720m)

Area: Haute Jura, France

Back to the tranquility of the Jura, in the spirit of returning home in gradual segments rather than in one huge drive (as I would have done in the past). As such, this worked brilliantly. After Semnoz I had the perfect river bath near Mesigny and eventually camped south of Lelex in the dark and quiet depths of the Valserine. These two hills are the Jura highpoints and I had pinpointed them as an ideal outing for M and I. They didn't meet the family criteria however (no swimming lake) so this morning I set out at a 'running' pace, heading upwards through thick and very steep forest. This wasn't particularly pleasant, but eventually I emerged from the treeline and things improved considerably. Across an open upland area I could see the giant cross on Le Reculet. I made my way up to it, running slowly, and gained the main Jura ridge again. I think Le Reculet was assumed to be the highpoint of the ridge for years, hence the cross, not least because it is more impressive and stands alone. From it, I headed south directly and then negotiated several paths that lead through beautiful limestone scenery - copses and hollows - to the top of Crete de la Neige. Lovely nearby views although a little hazy beyond the Jura. I looked down to the Valserine and then headed off on a big extension, diagonally running along an excellent path which ultimately led to Lelex although took a surprisingly long time to reach it! After doubling back to the south I emerged at the familiar Valserine road just south of the village and trotted back to the van, driving to Besancon after breakfast. Just under 15k/960m in a relaxed 2.5 hours.

Semnoz via Col des Leschaux

A noisy Bastille day evening with fireworks, coinciding with a heatwave and a France v Spain semi-final wasn't conducive to sleep in Saint Jorioz on the shores of Lac d'Annecy. But I watched the first half on a big screen in the neighbouring village and actually slept quite well after the festivities ended and the temperatures eased a little. It was nice to be able to stroll to the patisserie for a proper coffee and pastry in the morning before heading off along the superb 'voie verte' towards Sevrier in the Annecy direction. Here, I started climbing right from the lakeside up the very gentle slopes of the Col des Leschaux. This was perfection, an easy but long climb dictating a pleasant relaxed rhythm. It heads gently south on a lovely quiet road, remaining at a steady 4% throughout. The col is at a crossroads in Leschaux village, and after a gel I took the Semnoz road up hairpins to the west. This is, as expected, a complete contrast - more like a standard Alpine climb. Much steeper, much harder from the start. But the hairpins are very long and the gradient was still manageable, and I was feeling reasonably good. Dark clouds were gathering to the south, as predicted, and this added a slight sense of urgency as I certainly didn't want to be caught on top of Semnoz in a storm. They soon dissipated, and the hairpins ended too as the road heads north up gentler slopes to a final steep climax on the open meadows of the summit. Lovely climb: I believe the TdF has been up it just a few times and perhaps only from Annecy, which was the way I now descended. Although as cautious as ever, this was wonderful and I did get some speed up on the gentler slopes towards the bottom. It emerges, quite suddenly, close to the centre of Annecy which is obviously a very stark contrast! I ambled in to the famous view of the old town from Quai de Vicenza but it was incredibly busy so I headed towards the lakeside pretty quickly. Here, I picked up the wonderful voie verte immediately. Although also very busy, this was a perfect route back to the van. I decided to extend the day though, so had lunch near Saint Jorioz at a cafe actually on the cycle path. Thus fortified, I had plans to extend perhaps to Albertville or the Forclaz and felt great along the lakeside to Duingt. However, black clouds had now gathered in earnest at the southern end of the lake and very quickly gathered themselves into a very sudden and very violent storm. All hell broke loose for a while, with whirlwinds whipping up dust and loud thunderclaps. I sprinted back to the van which I reached just in time (albeit a little wet) after 68k/1300m. Within a few minutes it had passed but I was changed and driving north by then!