Famau run

A nice acclimitisation exercise on a longer run up to and around Famau from the Collie with Neil: lots of mud throughout, and frequent showers, but very enjoyable and a stark contrast to three weeks in Provence. Relieved to feel OK throughout, because I'd taken a bit of a fall running on the 27th, my final holiday outing in the Esterel, in the remotest part of the range near the nicely-named Baisse de la Grosse Vache. I was exploring a new route from the caravan up the Perthus gorge, then north up the remote valley of Gabre de Gourin to eventually pick up the GR51 where I took a headlong fall during a fastish scree descent. Just cuts and bruises, luckily, given the proximity of Borrowdale and the fact that I hadn't taken water. Still, a slightly painful jog back to the caravan via the Col du Baladou and the Col du Mistral.

Caire Gros

Peaks: Pic de Colmiane (1790m/5873ft), Le Caire Gros (2087m/6847ft), Tete de Clans (2081m/6827ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Given my solo Alpine trip, I'd already pledged not to make another solo trip to the Mercantour. But our final weekend seemed an ideal opportunity for a family visit, so we took the chairlift from Colmiane above St Martin Vesubie up the eponymous peak in more superbly clear weather: again, a stiffish breeze had blown the haze away. Weather now far more stable than it had been for me on the big peaks a fortnight ago. I took the opportunity to run from Pic de Colmiane over the wooded hill of Le Faut to Col du Varaire. Here, I picked up the mega-route of the GR5 (for the first time since 1992!) to contour through pine forest SW to the Col des deux Caires and a sudden emergence from the treeline to fantastic views over unfamiliar hills west towards the Castellane Pre-Alps. I left the GR5 for the zigzags up east to the summit of the Caire Gros. All runnable, gaining the top in about 27 minutes from Colmiane. Stunning 'new' views into the heart of the Mercantour: satisfying and fascinating to gaze from a different angle on previously climbed peaks like Agnel, Clapier, Gelas, Capelet, Ponset - as well as those still to come like Maledie and Argentera. Perfect clarity to the north, where Mounier and Pelat were obvious highpoints. The immediate surroundings were also appealing, and I couldn't resist running a section of the ridge to Tete de Clans. This was an exhilerating grassy romp with wonderful views on both sides. Dropped down steeply to the GR5, which I took back to the col and then Colmiane for lunch with the family at the informal restaurant on the summit with perfect views over the Mercantour.

Mont Vinaigre run

Peak: Mont Vinaigre (614m)
Area: Esterel, France
Another long-term plan, to run up Vinaigre from the caravan. Not that far, but made problematic by the lack of a direct approach. Runnable all the way, with water and map in a sac, and quite easy down to Carrefour Castelli then up the useful navigational tool of the Vallon de la Cabre. Excellent remote atmosphere along this valley, which feels miles from anywhere. Complete silence, due to the lack of running water (or water of any kind), traffic and birdsong (at this time of year). Forced then to head south, away from the peak, to gain the contouring Perthus path heading back towards the peak to gain the road at Route des Cols. Along this to gain the GR51 path to the summit in around 75 mins. A better descent, taking the Perthus path all the way to the abandoned lodge at Malavalettes, and back to the site for breakfast (an early start is pretty vital for this route!). Upped the running mileage in recent days, with another long run along the Perthus gorge from the caravan on the 19th (followed by more bouldering and snorkelling at Dramont), and the Castelli loop yesterday.

Cadieres de Brandis

Peak: Tete de la Barre de la Sapee (1626m/5335ft)
Area: Castellane Pre-Alps, France
Routes: West ridge (uI)
A family trip to Verdon in windy conditions which led to superb air clarity. Started at the Couloir Samson and all walked the first section of the Sentier Martel through the tunnels, including the 700m long one, with head torches. Very enjoyable for all, my second trip through, with fabulous views of the crags. The children both agreed they would come back and do the full 2-day Martel when 'teenagers'. We then headed to the Col de Leques via Castellane and walked the splendid Cadieres de Brandis circuit. This is a delightful trip through pine woods above the col to gain a ridge at Colle Bernaiche and tremendous new views down to the Verdon and over to Chanier and the main gorge. Lovely level walking along the hillside to zigzags and a remarkably beautiful wonderland of dwarf pines, subalpine meadows and little limestone outcrops and caves: classic haute Provence limestone scenery. To the left, the Brandis pinnacles were impressive. I broke off for the scramble up to the Sapee summit, to add to my fairly lengthy list of ascents around the Castellane Pre-Alps. This was good, a genuine scramble and surprisingly hard going up limestone blocks, little scree-covered valleys and steepish chimneys. Tricky route-finding too. The top was an exposed fin of rock, quite windy, with superbly clear views over to Verdon, the Mercantour, and previously climbed local peaks like Bernarde (done last summer), Robion (2007), Teillon (03), Destourbes (02). Rejoined the family in a wooded glade, then enjoyed perfect limestone scenery on the descent along rocky shelves down to the woods and col. A long day pour les enfants.

Esterel scrambles

A quieter day yesterday, doing the short 'Castelli' hill loop before breakfast. After investing in new flippers/fins, enjoyed some excellent snorkelling today at Aigue Bonne and Boulouris (plenty of sealife in these bays, different species) before walking the sentier littoral en famille, having to escape the eroded path through a hotel lounge! Went to St Baume later where I have long felt a scrambly route up the broad 'ridge' to Cap Roux to be a possibility. After much thrashing around in the maquis, unstable scree and false leads I concluded that it wasn't and abandoned the attempt amid a maze of tottering rock spires. One of the spires had a little diff ridge up it, so I contented myself with that and retreated to the pool to soothe my cuts and bruises.

Cap Dramont

Crag: Cap Dramont
Routes: Moon flower (f3b:sol), Let's go (f3b:sol), L'Orange (f5: sol), slab arete (VD:sol), slab route 2 (VD:sol), slab route 3 (D:sol), slab route 4 (D:sol), slab route 5 (D:sol)
Took a day to recuperate as the family holiday started, then enjoyed the standard 8 mile Esterel running loop yesterday. A follow up jog around Dramont today, along with some good bouldering including trips up the easy routes on the lower crag (plus 'L'Orange' at f5, not done before). I also discovered a 'new' little slab above the sea and the ile d'or which was ideal for children: shame I hadn't packed the gear. All very easy routes at D/VD on incredibly rough rock and in a lovely position. Good snorkelling below Dramont followed.

Mont Malinvern

Peak: Mont Malinvern (2938m/9639ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France/Italy
Route: South-East Flank (uI+)
This peak filled the gap between the 'central' Mercantour peaks explored in previous years, and my recent explorations further north around the Rabuons basin. It was another excellent outing, although I was inevitably beginning to tire a little. I didn't know a great deal about the peak or area, and so navigating away from Isola 2000 towards the peak was a little tricky. Even by Alpine standards, the ski resort of Isola 2000 is pretty hideous, yet within a few minutes it becomes just a bad memory as you enter the truly exquisite Vallon de Terre Rouge. Copses of pine trees, rocky outcrops and alpine meadows - a delightful sylvan place. The path leads to a levelling and then the entrance to a broad cwm containing the Lacs de Terre Rouge. This cwm is entirely hidden from Isola 2000, and is again very beautiful with a necklace of perfect lakes acting as the foreground to views of Malinvern (impressive from this angle) and Cime de Tavels. The path stays relatively level and hugely enjoyable as it traverses some snowfields to gain zigzags up to the obvious pass of the Baisse du Druos on the Italian border. Superb views down the Italian side to Terme di Valdiera, a light cloud inversion adding definition to Argentera and Tete du Claus (a very eye-catching peak). Again, a powerfully remote atmosphere (unlike yesterday, this was more illusory than real) as I began my solo ascent, dropping down slightly on the Italian side and yet again having problems with two snowfields. I traversed the first of these above the bergshrund, but couldn't avoid crossing the second with my improvised 'axe', which led to an unavoidable chimney. This had huge holds and was easy angled, and led to a very straitforward final section across a big snow-covered bowl, all on the Italian side, then up to the final ridge which is taken via a scrambly series of mild shallow chimneys. A tourist path, really, but very enjoyable. The weather, for the first time, was obviously going to remain stable. The summit took a while to reach as I was tiring slightly, but it rewarded with fabulous views in all directions. Malinvern occupies an excellent central position, so I could look north to yesterday's peaks, and south to previously climbed peaks in the main zone. Close at hand, the Italian side was particularly impressive as was the rock scenery down the sheer west and north face of Malinvern. I descended the same way to the Baisse, having a second breakfast as the weather cleared completely to an azure sky. I then encountered my first human beings of the three-day trip (I realised at this point that I'd had all four peaks entirely to myself) en route to the Baisse as I descended further, delaying the inevitable return to Isola 2000.

Corborant, Mont Tenibre

Peaks: Corborant (3007m/9865ft), Mont Tenibre (3031m/9944ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Routes: South Flank (uI+), East Ridge (uI)
I'd already had a hint that the day would be clear when I left the hut to pass water in the early hours: a superb full moon lit the lake and Chalanchas in an eerie silver glow. I slept very well, alone in the hut's loft, and had a decent breakfast, so felt fully refreshed after yesterday's exertions (St Robert plus the hut walk amounted to 2500m+ of climbing, perhaps a lot more). The shorter easterly route round the lake to the Pas de Corborant was choked with snow, so I took the Tenibre path and broke off along a vaguely cairned route finally catching a view of the intriguing hidden peak of Corborant half way along. A compelling objective, classically pyramidal, remote, hidden from view and awkward to reach. There was clearly a lot of snow in the steep, broad couloir leading to the Pas de Corborant, but the peak was so appealing I thought I'd give it a go. The terrain was almost as awkward as the central Mercantour: steep scree and vague cairns led to the remnants of what used to be the Corborant glacier (marked on old maps). Contoured above this easily to gain nasty shifting blocks then a very steep slope of shattered scree and powder. Really awkward and unpleasant to get up this, but at least it meant avoiding the iced neve further right. I left the slope as soon as I could to gain a ledge line leading left above the couloir. This became a tad exposed, and I was obviously near the top of the peak, so I just scrambled up a series of quite steep solid shelves to gain the summit in a sudden and exhilerating burst of sunshine, finally leaving the intimidating shadow of the couloir. The summit was small and superb: fabulous views over the cloud-covered Italian valleys, and south to Malinvern and the central Mercantour. Viso was as obvious as ever, but the main attraction for me was the galaxy of unfamiliar peaks fringing Rabuons. Tenibre, my next target, looked rather distant - and I was momentarily tempted by the Grand Cimon and Chalanchas. However, I opted to descend to the Tenibre path - now in beautiful warm sunshine. An enjoyable, well-cairned semi-tourist route leads up to the stunning lakes of Chaffour and Cimon (both almost completely ice-locked). Lost my way avoiding a large snowfield, going too far left before contouring to gain an obvious path above the wonderfully remote Lac de la Montagnette via one tricky snowfield. The Pas de Rabuons was a surprise: not the gentle through route I'd expected, but a dramatic cleft with steep drops down to an array of rock peaks along the Italian border, including Cime Burnat and Roche Brosse. The weather was worsening and I had no wish to navigate down through this ultra-complex terrain, so I bolted up the east ridge on steep scree to a level but narrowing final ridge - with a couple of awkward snowy breches - to the top. Corborant looked both pleasingly impressive and pleasingly far away! I scurried down as the cloud descended, recuperating with a good lunch above the lake. The Chemin de l'Energie was even better in reverse, with superb views down to the Tinee valley. So good, in fact, that I decided to extend the day continuing north from pt 2382 along the Chemin to beautiful Lac Petrus, then skirting Tete de Malignas to the next valley over: the Plan de Tenibre. The path stays level throughout, and I was sorry to leave it - but there was an obvious descent back to St Etienne south-west down a steep spur (Coste de Fournels). A satisfying day: Corborant and Tenibre are not close neighbours and both are significant independent peaks with very different characters - nice to do them in quick succession, with the Energie extension as a bonus. I was back in the village by mid-afternoon, and camped further down the Tinee valley in Isola.

Cime St Robert

Peak: Cime St Robert (2919m/9577ft)
Area: Mercantour Alps, France
Routes: South Ridge (uII), South Flank (uI+)
This was something of a bonus peak, squeezed in before the real meat of a solo three-day Alpine trip (itself squeezed in before our family holiday in Provence). I flew into Nice on Thursday evening, and drove straight to St Martin Vesubie in the hire car. Drove up to the Madone this morning, and headed straight for this peak - which is such an obvious and shapely objective from the hut and chapel. I'd done Gelas, the big one, years ago in 1994 and so had delayed my ascent of this, its close neighbour. It was the ideal choice today, though: short and sharp. I jogged the initial path up towards the Pas des Ladres, before breaking off towards the Col de Fenestre and then again to the little Gelas path across a side valley before contouring the hillside. St Robert looms ever larger at this point, and the route inevitably becomes hard to follow as soon as the Gelas path is left. I headed up some little valleys trying to find the ominously-named Lac Mort below the peak. It soon became clear that snow was going to be a problem: far more than in previous years, and me with no axe. After crossing a large snowfield, iron hard neve at this time in the morning (still before 8), I crested a ridge to see Lac Mort below - chocked with ice and snow, making a superb foreground to the view of Mont Ponset (climbed July 06). What I took to be the normal access gully was choked with snow, so I took shallower snow slopes (using my ski pole as an improvised axe) to gain a scree gully further right. Tediously up this to a rock wall, skirted on slabs above a bergshrund, to a much bigger slope. Typical Maritime Alps terrain - big unstable clapiers, awkward route-finding. Eventually I worked out a way to gain the upper scree that is so obvious from the madone in safety, taking a steeper snowfield at its narrowest point to gain a dirty gully and then the scree. From here, the route was obvious and simple - presumably because I'd finally gained the voie normale above the usual access gully. The scree led to the obvious SE ridge which gave good scrambling before becoming rather exposed. I traversed right into the gully of the normal route, which also gave enjoyable and atmospheric scrambling to the small summit. Around 90 mins from the madone, half the guidebook time. Cloud was already spilling in to the Italian valleys and the sky was milky white. But the views were good - Monte Viso, Matto, Argentera all impressed, as did the very close Gelas. Pleasing to see the Grand Capelet looking so dominant, after last year's ascent, and the Matterhorn was also visible on the horizon. I was pushed for time, so made a rapid and simple descent (marred by the loss of a sleeved top in the gully) back to the Madone. Got in the car and, after buying provisions, drove over the Col St Martin down the Tinee valley and, eventually, St Etienne de Tinee. Began the walk-in to the Rabuons hut immediately. This is possibly the longest hut walk in the Maritime Alps, so it wasn't ideal that I had already done a 3000m peak that day! Still, the path was superbly engineered through the trees with ever-expanding views over the galaxy of grassy peaks between Pelat, Col de Bonette and Mont Mounier. Emerged from the treeline after a couple of hours of hard, hot work, to be rewarded by the truly stunning Chemin de l'energie. This is an incredible Tolkienesque level path cut into the mountain side for a now-defunct project. A superbly enjoyable walk along it, increasingly exposed but always just a ramble, led to the final rise to the wonderfully positioned Refuge de Rabuons. I passed a splendid evening at the hut as the only guest. It got pretty cold as I ambled around the superb glacial lake, watching the sun set over Pelat and the colours gradually drain from the peaks. Both tomorrow's objectives - Corborant and Tenibre - are hidden from the hut, but the Tete des Chalanchas and the Grand Cimon de Rabuons were equally impressive sights.

The Beast fell race

Race: The Beast (4m/1200ft)
Time/position: 29:40 (6th from 45)
My last race before leaving for the Alps/Provence, so I wanted to do it despite being tired after recent events (and despite two pints of bitter and a heavy meal at lunchtime!). A brief nap before the race helped, and although my legs felt tired throughout I turned in a reasonably pleasing performance. Went quite quickly from Maeshafn through the woods and picked up a few places on the climb up 'the beast' to the Bryn Alyn limestone pavements. Managed to stick with the pace of Simon and Neil, and pulled past them - to my surprise - on the final climb through the Big Covert woods to finish 6th. My second running of this excellent revived event, with a pleasant drink afterwards in the Miner's Arms.

Penmaen Head climbing

Crag: Penmaen Head, Colwyn Bay
Routes: FW route 3 (f5:led), FW route 2 (f5+:sec), FW route 6 (f6a:led), FW route 7 (f6a+:sec), PM route 17 (f5:led)
A brief but interesting trip to this 'new' bolted venue, just managing to squeeze a few routes in between heavy showers. We were both surprised by the quality of the climbing, a pleasing and much-needed superior alternative to (for instance) the scrappy routes at Trevor. The rain stopped as we arrived, to enable me to lead some routes on Flowstone Wall, the most obviously attractive sector. All routes here are on good rough, solid limestone with natural flowstone features - all nicely sustained at an amenable but thought-provoking standard. Route 3 went steeply but juggily up to a final section festooned with excellent holds. Route 2 was similar, but steeper and more sustained: good climbing. I then led the splendid route 6 up the obvious flowstone wall: really satisfying climbing. Slabbier and more technical than the routes left, but felt quite soft for the grade, as did the 6a+ to the right. Started a route on the Expressway wall above the A55, but was rained off, so foolishly led the short groove to the right of Penmaenrhos wall in the rain. Very slimy and awkward, had to move right to gain the lower-off. Alwyn and I both thought it prudent to retreat after this, as the rain continued.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 2

Race: SLMM (Bowfell class) day 2 (18.5k/1200m)
Time/position: 5:52:20 (12:27:50 cumulative/26th overall)
Asleep in a quiet camp by 9pm, so felt quite good as we collected the coordinates at 6.45am. Rather wet, with low cloud, but this began to clear as soon as we set off to an easy first control, then along the riverside path to Birks and up the side of Harter Fell to CP 2 at the foot of Demming Crag. We were both going well, and took a good route down the complex, lumpy NE spur of Harter Fell to Hardknott Pass. The cloud was down as we took another good route contouring Hartknott summit to land dead-on CP 3 on the marshy plateau north. We were gaining time and places now, as the sun came out, and we continued pushing the pace down to Mosedale before contouring rough terrain east to Gaitscale Gill and CP4. As the weather continued to improve, things started to go wrong. Stef struggled on the mountainous terrain leading down to Wrynose, and as a partial result we then took the awful decision to avoid the direct mountainous route over Swirl Hows to the fifth control - instead opting to retrace the day one route over Birk Fell much further east. This lost us a great deal of time, and places, and got worse as we tried to cut corners (great views over to Langdale though!). After more than two hours of frustrating struggle I dibbed CP 5 in the mines SE of the Old Man. Annoyed, we stormed the remainder of the course over The Bell and back to the finish in Coniston. Glorious sunshine for the final section. A cracking weekend, despite the one unfortunate route planning error, particularly as it was centred around new territory for me: Eskdale and Duddon.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 1

Race: SLMM (Bowfell class) day 1 (22.6k/1300m)
Time/position: 6:35:30 (23/50)
First attempt at the Saunders - a splendid event and an enjoyable weekend, marred only by one appalling route choice on day two. The first day began well. After a pleasant camp in Coniston, Stef and I began the Bowfell course in light drizzle. After getting the control coordinates, we climbed gently up to Crook Beck and located the first CP below a crag. The next leg was a very long haul over the shoulder of Birk Fell and down to Widdy Gill. Then a long road climb up to Wrynose Pass before branching off north to the CP south of Pike o'Blisco. Feeling quite good, we jogged NW to Red Tarn then cut across the shoulder of Great Knott to cross a boggy plateau in a light shower. Steep but fast descent down Swinsty Gill to satisfying route plotting across the marshy ground leading to upper Eskdale. Followed a small stream on a bearing to land dead-on the re-entrant for CP 3, then easily down to the next control on a knoll. Gentle jogging over marshy terrain led to hidden Stony Tarn and a well-hidden control in an old ruin between steep knolls. We descended into Eskdale, then up a final steep climb to CP 6 in a little valley beyond Kepple Crag. A good route suggestion by Stef saw us gain a little time by countouring a spur to easily gain a runnable bridleway which led lengthily down Grassguards gill to the final check in Wallbarrow gorge. We were now in the Duddon Valley, and jogged down a marked route to the pleasant overnight camp at Turner Hall farm. A very pleasant evening, save for a lengthy heavy shower, with several acquaintances at camp. Nice views of Duddon, Harter Fell and the Coniston group.

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:sh), Chutney (VS 5a:sh), Owl Wall (HS 4a:sh), Epitaph (HVS 5b:sh), Horn Dog (HVS 5a:sh)
A very early, very brief trip to Pot Hole for some shunted routes. A worthwhile workout, though, didn't feel too tired after last night's race although the humidity didn't help with the polished limestone. Mango is a good line up a positive crack, and Chutney was refreshingly unpolished - good, crisp moves and a good steep finish. Avoided the big holds on Owl Wall, and downclimbed it too. I remembered Epitaph from a previous ascent many years ago: slightly disjointed with only one or two hard moves left of the arete. Horn Dog takes a superdirect and photogenic line up the arete. Good, surprisingly independent climbing on small, sharp holds straddling the arete. Just a bit short. Finished with a brief recovery jog.

Hotfoot up Famau race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1200ft)
Time/Position: 40:49 (8th from 84)
Predictably hot and humid for this mini-beast of a race, which packs a great deal of physical torment into 3.5 miles. No respite throughout the race, a ferociously fast initial descent leads to the steep climb up Moel y Gaer followed by a route change - with Martin replicating the long leg from last October's relays, which involves a little ridge followed by a steep descent through waist high bracken to Nant y Ne. Struggled up to the gully in stifling heat, just managed to keep going in 6th place, but passed by two as it levels out near the top of Famau, just didn't have the strength to move quicker. Couldn't quite catch them on the descent, but did take a couple of minutes off last year's time. Great race and nice atmosphere, as the sun dropped over central Snowdonia during our warm-down - beautiful views of the Vale and beyond.