Penmaen Head climbing

Crag: Penmaen Head, Colwyn Bay
Routes: FW route 3 (f5:led), FW route 2 (f5+:sec), FW route 6 (f6a:led), FW route 7 (f6a+:sec), PM route 17 (f5:led)
A brief but interesting trip to this 'new' bolted venue, just managing to squeeze a few routes in between heavy showers. We were both surprised by the quality of the climbing, a pleasing and much-needed superior alternative to (for instance) the scrappy routes at Trevor. The rain stopped as we arrived, to enable me to lead some routes on Flowstone Wall, the most obviously attractive sector. All routes here are on good rough, solid limestone with natural flowstone features - all nicely sustained at an amenable but thought-provoking standard. Route 3 went steeply but juggily up to a final section festooned with excellent holds. Route 2 was similar, but steeper and more sustained: good climbing. I then led the splendid route 6 up the obvious flowstone wall: really satisfying climbing. Slabbier and more technical than the routes left, but felt quite soft for the grade, as did the 6a+ to the right. Started a route on the Expressway wall above the A55, but was rained off, so foolishly led the short groove to the right of Penmaenrhos wall in the rain. Very slimy and awkward, had to move right to gain the lower-off. Alwyn and I both thought it prudent to retreat after this, as the rain continued.