Chester Marathon

Race: Chester Marathon
Time/Position: 3:01:02 (45th from 800)
I could hardly avoid doing this, the inaugural 'home' marathon two days after my 40th birthday. I knew the course would be a grim slog, and wasn't really looking forward to it, but in the event it proved better than expected. Frustratingly, however, I wasn't able to take advantage of the perfect set of circumstances which should have led to a PB: namely, nine hours sleep in my own bed, cool and still conditions, and two days rest and calorific intake on the shores of Tal y Llyn celebrating my 40th over the weekend. It all started well, nicely controlled pace, going through half-way at Hawarden bridge bang on PB target in 1:27:06. I then upped the pace very slightly, working well with a chap from Wellingborough, before starting to struggle just after 20m (which I went through in just under 2:13). Began to slow down, before a crippling stitch hit me just as I ran past my workplace! This reduced me to a literal walk - losing minutes as my 2:53 target disappeared - before I was able to jog painfully through Guilden Sutton to the finish. A disappointing 18th V40 in my first race in the new category.

Arenig climbs

Crag: Simdde Ddu, Arenig Fawr
Routes: Gyllion (HVS 5a,4c,4c:sec)
It seemed like a good idea to squeeze a trip to this new venue into a three-hour post-work late afternoon window before the Famau run. It wasn't, and we very nearly abandoned the reccie amidst the steep scree and impenetrable vegetation that leads to the crag from the shores of the lake. We persisted, though, as the weather was fabulous, and eventually located the impressive South face of Simdde Ddu. Sadly, and frustratingly, we only had time for a single route. Vic merged all the pitches of Gyllion together to give a pleasant appetite-whetter. The first pitch follows a hairline crack up a steep slab on immaculate compact rock: some delicate moves on small positive holds. The second and third continue up slightly dirty but enjoyable juggy cracklines. The route is overgraded (VS 5a at the most) but good, although perhaps not quite warranting the three stars it gets in the guidebook. The outlook from the crag is superb: far-reaching views over Llyn Tegid and Berwyn, nobody in sight. I am developing an increasing appetite for these wonderfully quiet and remote Meirionydd crags: shame this was such a brief day. We jogged back to the car and even had time for a quick coffee before the run from the Collie up Famau, followed by a few birthday drinks with Neil.

Filiast climbs

Crag: Carnedd y Filiast
Routes: Central Route (S:led p.2), Left Edge (VD:led p.1,3), Bracken Corner (S:led), Friction (VD:sol)
A mountaineering day in this wonderful cwm, which gives a tremendous sense of isolation despite its relative proximity to the road. The weather was rather threatening as we set out on the steep walk-in, feeling slightly tired after a night at the Brewery Tap. The sharp slog sorted me out, and Central Route on the Red Slab was an ideal way to continue my recovery - a very gentle 100m wedge of perfect rock. Alwyn and I climbed together up the initial 30m, padding up a delicate seam with superb friction, before tying on to scamper up the top half of the slab (which is even easier). Some light drizzle as we contoured through thick heather to the foot of Left Edge, which takes an attractive line up a long curving slab to the right of the main area of slabs (Creigiau Rowlar). It's similar to Atlantic Ridge to its left (which we did two years ago) but gives better and more continuous climbing, albeit extremely simple. We romped up the route very quickly in four 50m pitches, keeping right on the edge: perfect gritstone-like rock, all very enjoyable, particularly when the sun came out. After descending the ridge, it was still very early (lunchtime), so I led Bracken Corner on Tree Slab (having done the other routes hereabouts). It takes a rough, quartzy crack to a tree, then finishes up a pleasant corner. Some vegetation, as with the other routes here, but quite nice climbing on perfect rock. Finished by nipping up the arete on the left, and descended in warm sunshine as the clouds cleared.

Hill training

Quite a good week's training, going some way to make up for last Sunday's disappointing performance. Finally able to concentrate on improving hill fitness, with runs up Hope Mountain on Tuesday, Waun y Llyn on Wednesday (a long double loop), the Famau run on Friday and shorter runs in between. Early this morning I set a pb for the Collie Famau run of 57:23 (33:57 to the summit).

Chester half marathon

Race: Chester half marathon
Time/Position: 1:22:37 (33rd from 2000)
My worst performance in any race for two years. Had high hopes for a big pb on my 6th running of this event, and set out at 5:50 pace which I sustained until 9-10 miles (the hill to Eccleston). I was comfortably on for my target time of 1:18, but then blew completely. Jogged the last three miles, almost walking pace. Genuinely surprised to blow up: I'd felt fine on the run up Famau on Friday, although perhaps was still feeling the effects of our frenetic climbing trip.

Roussivau climbs

Crag: Barre du Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: La Revolte des Naines (f6a:led), Rencontres du Troisieme Slip (f5c:sec), Sexe=Desordre (f5c:sec), Pachyderme Story (f6a:led), Dissident Sakhapov (f5c:sec), Be the One (f5b:sec), Turn it on Again (VD!:led), Take Off* (f5c:led), Out of the Blue (f4:led), Zootomie (f5:led), Zog (f6a:sec)
The day dawned warm and sunny, easily the best weather of the trip. We were inevitably tiring, and were considering Chateaudouble, but in the end settled for the nearby crag of Roussivau. I did many routes on this crag in the 90s, and my notes from the time are very enthusiastic. So it was rather surprising to find the routes a tad disappointing: we may have been tired, or spoiled by the quality of the previous three days. More likely is the fact that I tried to do routes I hadn't done before, and therefore missed some of the classics. After another 5 mile morning run around the Castelli circuit, we drove the 2km to the crag and enjoyed the steep approach walk in glorious sunshine. La Revolte (6a) was a nice start, although slightly wet, up a crack which led to an awkward crux mantel (knees!) to a sloping ledge. The two routes on the left of this sector weren't as good as I remembered: a rock scar suggests 'evolution' had occurred in the intervening 16 years! I then led Pachyderme Story, a nice 6a line which aims for a hanging pod-like groove, which gives enjoyable bridging up to jugs. Dissident Sakhapov looks awful: mossy and green, but gives quite good steep climbing up rough, positive holds. Seconded Vic up Be the One on the main 'wave' face, before experiencing my first DNF of the trip on a short 6a+ behind the easy arete (which I then climbed to retrieve the gear). Definitely tiring now: failed again on Take Off, an undergraded very short f5c which takes a steep and insecure groove. A nasty route, giving seemingly desperate climbing on sloping holds (although tiredness was definitely a factor now). I made it to the top move, within inches of the LO, but was now completely drained of energy. Started to wind down thereafter, with a lead of the pleasant f4 which takes an obvious groove on the 'wave' face (my final tick on this face after a 16 year gap!). We finished on the lovely little slab, where I did two routes I've done numerous times before - Zootomie up the crack in the arete, and the technical slab taken by Zog. Spent some time enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of this special place, and the views over the Esterel, before starting the descent through the maquis. A great trip:, even better than last year: maximising the time available, concentrating on quality routes, very lucky with the weather, which was unsettled but dry when we needed it to be. Fortunate to dodge the ash cloud too!

Blavet climbs

Crag: Rive Droite, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: Pepin le Bref (f5c,f5c:led p.2)
Crag: Colle Rousse, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: 19 La Placette (f5c:sec)
Crag: La Capelle Aval, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: DRZ Sena Mrane Droite (f5c:led), DRZ Gauche (f4b:sec), Du Pof Des Baffes Un Pet (f5c+:led), Ascenseur Pour les Scatos (f6b+:sec), Les Pets de la Dame aux Cleps (f6b:sec)
The rain continued for most of the night, but it was drying as we set off for Blavet. The skies were slightly threatening as we descended to the crag, intent on a route in the gorge proper this year (after scratching the surface on the Face Sud and Petit Canyon last year). Pepin le Bref was the obvious choice as the first, and most amenable, route on the Rive Droite. I'd located the initial chimney pitch on a reccie last summer, and managed to find it again after a jungle-bashing scramble. Vic led the first pitch, and it was excellent - remarkably dry after the downpour. A steep chimney, with juggy holds, narrows to give some bridging over a bulge to easier ground. Above this, a superbly steep layback crack - in a splendid position - gives excellent climbing until a move left gains a belay ledge. I led the final pitch up a mossy slab via an awkward mantel move, to gain a long sentry-box feature. This was awkward and wet in places - with more bridging - until a steep move out left gains a big hold and pull up to easy ground and the top of the gorge. A great HVS climb: 'ambience grand canyon, tarif abordable'! I descended all the way back to the base, tiring, to get the sacks. We then had lunch above the canyon before walking in to Colle Rousse, a new venue (visible from miles around and often mistaken for the gorge itself - which is actually hidden from view). This was hard to find, not popular, and the routes were even harder to locate and identify. However, Vic eventually set out on 19 La Placette in light rain. This got heavier as I followed on, but the rock was so rough and perfect (after a friable first few metres) that it hardly mattered. The climb packed a lot in to a short space: a good crack led enjoyably to a pull on to the upper wall, with sharp little holds leading to the crux over a bulge at the top. The rain that had threatened all morning started in earnest as I began another 5c further right, so we abandoned the crag and scampered down to the car. After a drink, however, the sun came out, and I suggested stopping for a look at La Capelle Aval before heading for home. We were tiring, but this was a good decision. A four minute walk-in gains the crag, which was far better than I'd expected: an excellent venue. I started by leading the obvious, slightly precarious arete of DRZ on a subsidiary slab hidden behind the main faces: this was delicate with some excellent sharp pockets, but rendered slightly tricky by lichen and moss. A much easier line takes the wide crack in the slab further left, which I also did. I got my second wind at last, and went for Du Pof, which takes the obvious arete to the left of the main face - up to the wide crack which is visible from quite a long way off. This was a great pitch, unexpected, varied and surprising, and a real bonus after a weather-affected day. Steep moves up an awkward chimney gain the main slab, which then becomes wonderfully delicate as it makes its way up to the wide crack. Some thuggy jamming up the crack eventually allows another move out left to the arete itself before an easier slabby finish. Excellent stuff. We took the opportunity to second two more technical pitches further right, and both were excellent. Ascenseur was theoretically the hardest pitch of the trip at 6b+, but didn't seem too bad. Very steep and strenuous at first, then sustained but easier moves lead to a hard, almost blank slab. We should perhaps have taken this further left, but chalk lead diagonally right to the upper wall. Les Pets had another technical and strenuous start before more excellent face climbing. Finished off with a 4-5 mile run (the Castelli circuit) around the Esterel hills: fairly tired by the time we got to 'refuel'.

Pic du Perthus climbs

Crag: Pic du Perthus, Esterel, France
Routes: La Directe (f6a+,f5c+:led p.1), Y'a Pas de Lezard (f6a:led), Gaston Rebiffe-Toi! p.1 (f5c:led), La Chevauchee des Vaches Qui Rient (F6a:sec), Plus Beau Que Moi Tu Meurs (f6a:led), Les Dents Longues (f6b:sec)
This is something of a fantasy crag for me. My third visit, and its advantages become more apparent with each trip: the grades are perfect (almost everything is in the f5c-f6b/HVS-E2 range), the rock is superb, the position and ambiance wonderful. It feels isolated and remote, yet it is only 35 minutes or so from the Col de Mistral, and only a few miles from the crowded coast (and the caravan!). High cloud as we approached, but nothing too threatening. As ever, we had the entire crag and valley to ourselves. As we geared up, Vic realised he'd left his rock shoes at Dramont yesterday! Nothing for it but to share mine, and lower them down to each other. I began ambitiously, leading the 6a+ opening pitch of La Directe. This goes easily to a steep, smooth bulge, which I initially took too far right and was forced to retreat (very brief rest). I then solved the problem, with a high reach for a little flake edge, before transferring feet onto a small foothold and going for a high jug above the bulge. Good climbing on pockets gained a belay ledge (and sunshine) before Vic led the sustained second pitch up a very steep crack right up the centre of the face. This led to a great move round an arete in a superb position to an easier finishing wall further left. A very good climb. We descended through appalling vegetation to the superlative west facing pillar at the extreme left of the face. This is taken by Y'a Pas de Lezard, which gives a stunning pitch of real quality. An easy wall leads to the main face, which gets progressively steeper and contains three distinct cruxes. It is never desperate or particularly technical, but is sustained at f6a throughout. Some superb pockets, characteristic of the crag, allow a steep crack to be gained. Brilliant climbing up this to a final move over a bulge: an outstanding 30m pitch. I then led the first long pitch of Gaston Rebiffe-toi, an old classic of the crag (just left of the Directe) with its crux low down: steep wall, small holds. This gains an easier but excellent pillar which curves round to the right to gain huge pockets and superb rock, and continues to traverse to the belay ledge. Vic followed up with a lead of La Chevauchee, much further right, which gave yet another excellent long pitch - perhaps 35m. It goes up a steep pillar to gain superb rough pockets before a hard crux move up a steep wall on very small holds. I went too far left up a lichen-covered groove and ended up making a hash of the crux - annoying as I'd done everything else so cleanly and quickly. The route kept coming above, with a superbly delicate and technical slab. A tremendously varied route, sustained at 6a through very different styles of climbing. We were tiring now, and almost called it a day. But I got a second wind, and we scrambled up to the smaller slab which sits above the descent gully. I've done all the routes here save one, so led that today. I was delighted to find that Plus Beau... gave yet another perfect pitch at 6a. Much more technical and slabby than the main face, but similar to the other routes on this slab. Bolts rather spaced, so it felt precarious as I balanced up small pockets to the first clip. Above this lay wonderful climbing up little pockets - the delicacy and precision welcome after a strenuous day. It started to rain as I began Les Dentes Longues (last climbed in 1994!), which gives another deliciously technical pitch on small pockets. A particularly hard start, which was rapidly getting wet, gives access to more pocketed pleasure. It poured down as we left, exactly as it did at this crag last year: perfect timing!

Cap Dramont climbs

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, France
Routes: Le Factum du Recteur (f4a:led), Bento (f5b:sec), Jet Set Clafouti (f6a:sec), Pilier de Soleil (f5c+:led), Trois Zobs sur un Coup Fin (f6a+:sec), TGV (f5c:led), The Roux Petent Chaud (f6a:sec)
A 4am start from home meant we were rather sleep-deprived for the first day of our short Provencal climbing trip. Cool and cloudy as we walked to the crag in the early afternoon, indeed the forecast for the week was pretty awful. However, the sun started to peep through as we warmed up on two of the easy slab routes. Vic then led the long (30m) pitch of Jet Set Clafouti. This takes a steep but straightforward crack to a ledge, before a hard couple of moves on small crimps over a bulge gain the upper slab. This leads very pleasantly to the top: a fine route, climbed quickly and cleanly. It was now time for a key target of mine: Pilier de Soleil, the undisputed classic of the crag. This superb climb follows a line of good holds up the right hand side of an elegant pillar to some flakes. After a short easy slab, a traverse left gains the front of the pillar in a superb position ('between sea and sky') before the final wall, and crux, just below the top. A few steep moves up on small positive holds give a pulsating finish. I really wanted to do this Dramont classic in good style, and did so, romping up the route cleanly and quickly. Among the finest single pitches I've ever done: the grade bang on at 5c+. Trois Zobs takes a harder line up the face left of the pillar, starting up a steep crack on small, positive holds. After a ledge, the remainder of the route is sustained, strenuous and steep: another quality pitch. I moved up to the west face to lead TGV, which looks short and scrappy but is actually quite a good route (definitely overgraded) on sharp holds. However, a fierce cold wind blew straight into this face, along with some rain, and reduced us to shivering sleep-deprived wrecks. We weren't quite finished, though, and just bagged the strong line of the Roux Petant Chaud before heavier rain arrived. This takes the obvious slabby groove which forms the left edge of the pillar, and is again a very soft touch at 6a. Nice climbing up a little wall to a delicate slab which leads to an interesting wide groove/chimney. A great start to the trip (I have almost ticked the entire crag now), despite the weather and the lack of sleep.

Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Craig yr Wrysgan
Routes: White Streak (HS 4a,4a:led p.1), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec), Dorcon (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.1,2), Y Gilfach (VD+:led)
A cold north wind blew this weekend, and there was limited time available (four hours in total), so a brief trip to the Moelwynion seemed a good idea. The crag stayed sunny and relatively windless all day, so the choice was quickly vindicated. The first pitch of White Streak was very pleasant: characteristic pocketed Moelwyn rock. Slightly wet in places after recent rain, but nothing remotely troubling. A little traverse left leads to a move on to the slab and a delicate but easy traverse across shallow cracks right to a stance in the triangular corner. I then followed Vic up the pleasant but short (and wet) top slab, followed by Honeysuckle Corner: a very obvious line. This is steep to start, but juggy throughout, and is an excellent pitch. A splendidly varied combination of pitches, good climbing. A fierce, cold wind on top, so we descended quickly through the incline and atmospheric tunnel and went for the obvious corner line of Dorcon. I led the first pitch up the big groove. This was wet inside the crack and an awkward thrutch in places, but a fine line. Steep moves allow an exit right to a ledge, and I continued up the next, more open pitch up a juggy rib in a nice position. Vic led the supposed crux, which was just one move to gain a steep crack before the route disappointingly peters out. Y Gilfach was a nice finale: a delightfully simple romp up the obvious corner on the right of the crag. A slab leads to a groove which is steep for the grade: excellent rock and big holds throughout.