Thursday, May 27, 2010

Filiast climbs

Crag: Carnedd y Filiast
Routes: Central Route (S:led p.2), Left Edge (VD:led p.1,3), Bracken Corner (S:led), Friction (VD:sol)

A mountaineering day in this wonderful cwm, which gives a tremendous sense of isolation despite its relative proximity to the road. The weather was rather threatening as we set out on the steep walk-in, feeling slightly tired after a night at the Brewery Tap. The sharp slog sorted me out, and Central Route on the Red Slab was an ideal way to continue my recovery - a very gentle 100m wedge of perfect rock. Alwyn and I climbed together up the initial 30m, padding up a delicate seam with superb friction, before tying on to scamper up the top half of the slab (which is even easier). Some light drizzle as we contoured through thick heather to the foot of Left Edge, which takes an attractive line up a long curving slab to the right of the main area of slabs (Creigiau Rowlar). It's similar to Atlantic Ridge to its left (which we did two years ago) but gives better and more continuous climbing, albeit extremely simple. We romped up the route very quickly in four 50m pitches, keeping right on the edge: perfect gritstone-like rock, all very enjoyable, particularly when the sun came out. After descending the ridge, it was still very early (lunchtime), so I led Bracken Corner on Tree Slab (having done the other routes hereabouts). It takes a rough, quartzy crack to a tree, then finishes up a pleasant corner. Some vegetation, as with the other routes here, but quite nice climbing on perfect rock. Finished by nipping up the arete on the left, and descended in warm sunshine as the clouds cleared.

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