Arenig climbs

Crag: Simdde Ddu, Arenig Fawr
Routes: Gyllion (HVS 5a,4c,4c:sec)
It seemed like a good idea to squeeze a trip to this new venue into a three-hour post-work late afternoon window before the Famau run. It wasn't, and we very nearly abandoned the reccie amidst the steep scree and impenetrable vegetation that leads to the crag from the shores of the lake. We persisted, though, as the weather was fabulous, and eventually located the impressive South face of Simdde Ddu. Sadly, and frustratingly, we only had time for a single route. Vic merged all the pitches of Gyllion together to give a pleasant appetite-whetter. The first pitch follows a hairline crack up a steep slab on immaculate compact rock: some delicate moves on small positive holds. The second and third continue up slightly dirty but enjoyable juggy cracklines. The route is overgraded (VS 5a at the most) but good, although perhaps not quite warranting the three stars it gets in the guidebook. The outlook from the crag is superb: far-reaching views over Llyn Tegid and Berwyn, nobody in sight. I am developing an increasing appetite for these wonderfully quiet and remote Meirionydd crags: shame this was such a brief day. We jogged back to the car and even had time for a quick coffee before the run from the Collie up Famau, followed by a few birthday drinks with Neil.